Rebuilding the 6 gear transmission.

[kiohio]

Does anyone know of a link to a video regarding dismantling a 6-gear transmission? I can't seem to find one on YouTube and am having trouble visualizing how to take my tranny apart to rebuild it. HELP!!!

I would love to find one too. My step son and I are about to embark on a 6 gear rebuild and upgrade.
Would also like to see how FordPSD did on that rebuild, I think its been more than 10 days LOL

KO

[SnoopMaxx]

Well "someone" needs to make a How To video

[jwscab]

Just get the manual and follow it in reverse.

[klavy69]

Well "someone" needs to make a How To video

good Idea...and thanx for volunteering SnoopMax And I'll need your address so I can send you one to rebuild for the video

Todd

[SnoopMaxx]

Well "someone" needs to make a How To video

good Idea...and thanx for volunteering SnoopMax And I'll need your address so I can send you one to rebuild for the video

Todd

You already have my address mate
And if you send me a 6 gear, I'll rebuild and film it for sure

[morrisey0]

Opening up an old one here. I am getting into an outdrive bearing mod as I put my 6-gear back together tonight, and I thought I was just slapping a bearing where there was a felt pad and a cap, but it is more than that as I read further.

So, the brass ring (or bearing inner race) is installed to hold the outdrive in same lateral position because the non-flanged bearing was removed from the outdrive. So, was the bearing removed and brass ring installed so you could dial in the depth and keep the bearing flush to the outside of the trans case? I am just not seeing the forest through the trees on the bearing removal and brass ring install. And is it not just as simple to leave the inner bearing in and just space the bearing out so that it is flush? Is using the trans case as spacer support not a good idea because of wear? TBH, my bearing is super tight going on the trans case, so I really can't see it moving in and out anyways.

Oh well, I am sure I am missing something obvious here. Just not sure what it is right now.

jwscab's awesome diagram:


spacer diagram:

In looking at my diagram again, the spacer could be pressed against either the inner or outer bearing race, so maybe against the outer would be better.

[jwscab]

There is a big gap in the case where the outdrive is. If you don't add a spacer, the outdrive can wander in and out. The spacer or bearing race keeps the outdrive centered. You can build it without and see what I mean.

In the normal assembly the stacked bearings ride against the bolt you install inside the outdrive and keep the outdrive secure.

[GoMachV]

The reason for removing the non flanged bearing to install the outdrive bearing is because the tolerances are not good on these cases, you are basically allowing the outdrive to sit off axis as necessary. Three bearings over constrain the assembly. The screw used to hold the non flanged bearing so the outdrive can’t walk. Without that inner bearing and screw you need that brass tubing.

One thing I haven’t tried yet but in my head would work is to remove the outer portion of the unflanged bearing leaving just the inner race. Reassemble using the outdrive screw and that inner race as a spacer. If it holds in place like original (but obviously will now wobble around until the outdrive bearing is installed) then you are golden. The load will still be on the inner bearing like stock, vs on the outdrive bearing using the brass tubing

Embarrassingly terrible sketch showing what I mean…

[jwscab]

Yep that works nicely.

[morrisey0]

Three bearings over constrain the assembly. The screw used to hold the non flanged bearing so the outdrive can’t walk. Without that inner bearing and screw you need that brass tubing.

Okay, a little clarity hit. With the new outer bearing, you now have three bearings trying to center the outdrive, and all of them working perfectly together isn't going to happen. So the non-flanged bearing is removed to make it a simpler two bearing system.

[juicedcoupe]

One thing I haven’t tried yet but in my head would work is to remove the outer portion of the unflanged bearing leaving just the inner race. Reassemble using the outdrive screw and that inner race as a spacer. If it holds in place like original (but obviously will now wobble around until the outdrive bearing is installed) then you are golden. The load will still be on the inner bearing like stock, vs on the outdrive bearing using the brass tubing

This is the method that I use. I actually have a stash of worn 3/16 bearings just for this (to cut the inner race from).

[morrisey0]

One thing I haven’t tried yet but in my head would work is to remove the outer portion of the unflanged bearing leaving just the inner race. Reassemble using the outdrive screw and that inner race as a spacer. If it holds in place like original (but obviously will now wobble around until the outdrive bearing is installed) then you are golden. The load will still be on the inner bearing like stock, vs on the outdrive bearing using the brass tubing

Going to run with this and see how it works out.

[Frankentruck]

The 2 that I've built with all 3 bearings in place on each outdrive both seem buttery smooth and don't feel like they have any noticeable additional resistance.

[morrisey0]

Well, it has zero minutes on it, but it all seems tight and good. Literally had to press on the bearings so not worried about the outer screw to hold the other side from coming out. I will monitor it, but don't see it ever moving.

And wow, HD cameras up close make things look so bad! From 12" away, this trans looks super clean! Up close, kinda junk!

[Frankentruck]

Do the outdrive slots have any raised burrs on them from dogbone wear? That can make the bearings hard to press over the outdrive.