My 1987-1988 RC10 OG build
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My 1987-1988 RC10 OG build
I'm sorry if there is some crossover for the people on Facebook here, I literally joined FB so I could get on the RC groups (after many years of avoiding it).
I've been working on getting the parts together to rebuild the RC10 I raced in the late '80s on the old school dirt RC tracks of the Northeast USA.
As I remember it, I first put the car together in April of 1987 when I was 12. I was super lucky to have a couple of local guys who were really helpful in guiding me through picking out parts and helping me make the right decisions.
The highlights of the car were a composite craft chassis, A&L trailing arms, Andy's front arms, six gear transmission originally with 32 pitch but ultimately with Thorp 48 pitch gears, transmission modified two have an outdrive bearing and eliminate the small middle bearing, RPS steering arms, Thorp turnbuckles, dubro ball ends on all but the steering, blue litesink, 48p external gears, mirage body, pro-line wheels w/ Schumacher rear tires and CRP front. Radio was an XL2P with a tekin speed controller green label reedy motor to start - Proudly paid for all of this with my own savings that I earned by working since I was 8 years old as a paperboy.
After many iterations modifications and ultimately converting it to a monster truck I sold it to a guy when I was a Junior in high school. Now all these years later I regret that decision and so it is time to find all the parts in build it up again.
Here is where I started: I found most of the parts online. Still looking for turnbuckles and the 48 pitch 6 gears, but other than that close enough to start the build/resto. I found a kind of busted up composite craft chassis and given that I have a lot of years of composites experience I figured I might as well revive it. This car is not going to be perfect so if I find a better chassis down the line in new condition I'll just use that but for now this is a good baseline.
The used chassis had a bunch of scratches, a load of super glue on it, and a couple of holes that look like someone drilled with a jobber drill but other than that it's not in too bad of shape. First step was an acetone vapor bath for a couple days in a barbecue tray. That worked pretty well at getting rid of the super glue. Then I carefully removed all of the loose carbon shards from the drilled holes. Then I sanded the chassis very lightly with 400 grit to roughing up the surface slightly and take away any high points. There were still a lot of scratches left as expected. My plan with that was to fill the scratches. Normally I would do this with carbon fiber dust or very small chop and epoxy but I wasn't sure if this chassis was a vinyl ester or polyester resin probably not epoxy resin but who knows. Safer bet was to fill with something more benign. More benign on this occasion equaled a mixture of JB weld plastic weld and black Irwin chalk line powder. I ran a test piece on some old scrap and got the color match pretty much dead on. After cleaning the chassis, masking and prep etc I applied the JB weld and black chalk line mixture in a very thin application. Then I sanded the chassis back down to 400 starting at 120 and with the paper backed by a mahogany block. The next step is matte clearcoat.
I've been working on getting the parts together to rebuild the RC10 I raced in the late '80s on the old school dirt RC tracks of the Northeast USA.
As I remember it, I first put the car together in April of 1987 when I was 12. I was super lucky to have a couple of local guys who were really helpful in guiding me through picking out parts and helping me make the right decisions.
The highlights of the car were a composite craft chassis, A&L trailing arms, Andy's front arms, six gear transmission originally with 32 pitch but ultimately with Thorp 48 pitch gears, transmission modified two have an outdrive bearing and eliminate the small middle bearing, RPS steering arms, Thorp turnbuckles, dubro ball ends on all but the steering, blue litesink, 48p external gears, mirage body, pro-line wheels w/ Schumacher rear tires and CRP front. Radio was an XL2P with a tekin speed controller green label reedy motor to start - Proudly paid for all of this with my own savings that I earned by working since I was 8 years old as a paperboy.
After many iterations modifications and ultimately converting it to a monster truck I sold it to a guy when I was a Junior in high school. Now all these years later I regret that decision and so it is time to find all the parts in build it up again.
Here is where I started: I found most of the parts online. Still looking for turnbuckles and the 48 pitch 6 gears, but other than that close enough to start the build/resto. I found a kind of busted up composite craft chassis and given that I have a lot of years of composites experience I figured I might as well revive it. This car is not going to be perfect so if I find a better chassis down the line in new condition I'll just use that but for now this is a good baseline.
The used chassis had a bunch of scratches, a load of super glue on it, and a couple of holes that look like someone drilled with a jobber drill but other than that it's not in too bad of shape. First step was an acetone vapor bath for a couple days in a barbecue tray. That worked pretty well at getting rid of the super glue. Then I carefully removed all of the loose carbon shards from the drilled holes. Then I sanded the chassis very lightly with 400 grit to roughing up the surface slightly and take away any high points. There were still a lot of scratches left as expected. My plan with that was to fill the scratches. Normally I would do this with carbon fiber dust or very small chop and epoxy but I wasn't sure if this chassis was a vinyl ester or polyester resin probably not epoxy resin but who knows. Safer bet was to fill with something more benign. More benign on this occasion equaled a mixture of JB weld plastic weld and black Irwin chalk line powder. I ran a test piece on some old scrap and got the color match pretty much dead on. After cleaning the chassis, masking and prep etc I applied the JB weld and black chalk line mixture in a very thin application. Then I sanded the chassis back down to 400 starting at 120 and with the paper backed by a mahogany block. The next step is matte clearcoat.
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Re: My 1987-1988 RC10 OG build
After getting through the sanding process, it was time for finishing. I much rather would have done the sanding on a machine but I currently have no shop as I am working on relocating my family to a warmer climate
I have to say for being into the refurbishment for about $25 total The result is sweet. In no way is it perfect but unless you are looking at it very very carefully you can see any of the scratches that were there previously. Perhaps someday I will come across a perfect new chassis but for an old racecar built by a 12-year-old boy, I mean, come on it was never this sweet in reality.
Take a look and tell me what you think, suggestions & criticism always welcomed!


Take a look and tell me what you think, suggestions & criticism always welcomed!
- coxbros1
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- TheDiamondOne
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Re: My 1987-1988 RC10 OG build
Simply unbelievable. Will be following!
David, The artist formerly known as coxbros
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Re: My 1987-1988 RC10 OG build
Looks like a lot of hard work, which led to excellent results!
Great use of your Composite skills
Great use of your Composite skills

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Re: My 1987-1988 RC10 OG build
I couldn't have been more than 12 years old the last time I did this build. Just need to find some CRP dynamite 2.0 rear tires and get some refinished shocks and hardware from Dave G and I'm good to go.
- coxbros1
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Re: My 1987-1988 RC10 OG build
U better enter that in botm when it's done! I ain't playin...Nice!
Tap pic for clarity: Derek
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Re: My 1987-1988 RC10 OG build
Making progress.
I made the decision to do a little bit of RC assembly each morning before I go to work as opposed to trying to do it when I'm spent after a day of designing, talking, and being a dad. So far the results are promising.
Got the transmission rebuilt today. It doesn't spin quite as smooth as my old 48 pitch one did but it's pretty darn good given what I'm working with. Probably 2 seconds of spin by snapping my fingers on the diff adjust nut. One of the 32 pitch idlers is a bit rough, I did my best to clock it and make sure that the shaft centers were equal, and I'm sure once it breaks in a little bit then things will be better. It's crazy this stuff that comes back to you as you start working on these things, just little tricks and things you learn along the way. Stuff I hadn't thought about in years.
Got to say I'm really enjoying this.
I made the decision to do a little bit of RC assembly each morning before I go to work as opposed to trying to do it when I'm spent after a day of designing, talking, and being a dad. So far the results are promising.
Got the transmission rebuilt today. It doesn't spin quite as smooth as my old 48 pitch one did but it's pretty darn good given what I'm working with. Probably 2 seconds of spin by snapping my fingers on the diff adjust nut. One of the 32 pitch idlers is a bit rough, I did my best to clock it and make sure that the shaft centers were equal, and I'm sure once it breaks in a little bit then things will be better. It's crazy this stuff that comes back to you as you start working on these things, just little tricks and things you learn along the way. Stuff I hadn't thought about in years.
Got to say I'm really enjoying this.

- juicedcoupe
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Re: My 1987-1988 RC10 OG build
Yeah, the outdrive bearing mod adds a little resistance (comparatively) but adds much needed support.
Always looking for new and interesting ways to waste money.
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Re: My 1987-1988 RC10 OG build
Nice work. I have never seen a diff. shaft with a screw retaining the bearing. I always hated that E clip.
- juicedcoupe
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Re: My 1987-1988 RC10 OG build
Trackmaster. I have one in a heavily modded six gear.rctenracer wrote: ↑Fri May 27, 2022 6:08 am Nice work. I have never seen a diff. shaft with a screw retaining the bearing. I always hated that E clip.
But if you leave the diff assembly loose, clip is much easier to install.
Always looking for new and interesting ways to waste money.
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