91 Masami Stealth replica (Photo Comparison Uploaded)

[scr8p]

He's around on FB. Working on a Clod at the moment.

[LusBus]

Congrats, this is an awesome project, I love it! I am thinking about making a kind of "replica" too, but with some changes. Explained in a simple way: a optically-not-so-perfect replica but strong enough to play with it every day in every weather and with every (evil!) brushless-set. The reason is: Beside my collection of RC10s I would like to have a "basher"-RC10 whick comes with me when I go to the bike park or anywhere else were I can expect to have some fun.

This means: I wuold like to take the exact geometry of the original car, but simplify some critical parts (for example the A-arms, less "meshy") and then mill them from polyamide (no 3D-printing). This would makje the parts strong, and in case they brake, simple to replace.

Now my question: Has anybody here plans, sketches, drawings or even 3D-files (like .step) and would share them? Of course I can take the measurements from the pictures, but this kind of "reverse engineering" is less precise than a real drawing.

As an example I will post a picture from a simplified A-arm for my normal "basher-RC10". And yes, my drawings or files are free and I will share them with everybody who asks for it.

[LusBus]

After some measuring on my Cars, (Team Car, B2, B3, B4) I come to the conclusion, that the A-arms of the Stealth '91 seem to have the same length as on the B4 (and B3, B2): 73.025 mm (pin to pin), this is 2.875 or 2 7/8 inch.
Would be great, of somebody could confirm. Thanks a lot!

[LusBus]

...sorry, this should mean "IF somebody could confirm".

[LusBus]

Almost a bit deceiving, that this "magical" Stealth Car is so closed to B4 and B5 in terms of suspension geometry. Do you think it is worth building one? Is the handling different enough from the B4 and B5? If I would build one, then I would do it no only for the look, I would also be interestet in it's handling.

The other idea would be to "shrink" it a little, not as much as the NRC24, but maybe around 1/14 or 1/16 size...

Need your advice, opinion, what do you think would be the more interesting idea? Original size oder smaller?

Many thanks!

[jwscab]

It's been said that the 89 stealth car evolved into the b2/b3, and the 91 stealth car evolved in to the b4. The only major difference is the change in front c-hub design to get rid of the dropped spindle. Since the 91 world's, the tracks have become smoother and faster which means that dropped spindle isn't necessary.

[LusBus]

Yeah cool, thanks for this information. Does anybody have CAD-files of the '91 Stealth Car an would share them, so i could compare in detail? That would be very nice!

[LusBus]

... of course I would not use them for commercial purposes and of course I will also share my experience, drawings, plans, pictures from over 30 years of RC car hobby with everybody!

[LusBus]

Got it! Thanks very much! It will take some time to import and convert them. But as soon as this is done, I will share them with everybody who wants. So if you want to build your own "1991 Stealth Car" or if the printed parts of your Nix 91 break to often you can print them on your own, or you can mill them CNC or by hand, whatever you like. I will share them as ".step" files. Front A-arms will come first (because I like their design and because they can break quite easily).

[XLR8]

I'm curious; did you obtain this information from Jake, Niki or someone else?

[LusBus]

Hello hello

From someone else. There seem to be quite a lot of "freaks" around who are addicted to the RC10 history AND can draw CAD. There is even one living only a few kilometers (or miles for you in the USA) from where I live. Know him from racing together back in the 90ies.

Some of the parts are incomplete, missing holes along the xy-plane, because they were modeled in 2 or 2,5D), but as I have the coordinates, I can easily add them. And on my machine I must drill them separatly anyway (3-axis-CNC can not do this).

[LusBus]

I'm a bit in doubt, if I should use metric hardware (M3, M4 screws, 3mm hingepins) or US (4-40 and 3-32 and 1/8" hingepins).

US has more "style" an original look.

Metric is easier to find. And I would have some 3mm titanium rods for the hingepins, not bad...

Decision not yet made.