Help with ID

[RIrc10]

I’ve been wanting an rc10 since they first came out and finally got my hands on one I found in a garage sale. I’ve been cleaning and researching but the more I look at the more I get confused about what it is. The front axles or offset, the chassis has the forward battery holes offset but the rear bulkhead has the short wing tube mounts and the shock tower has the second shock mount hole. The trans has the black idler gears and what appears to be cnc cut gears. I know that the chassis isn’t perfect because someone drilled some holes but I still want to have it pretty correct. Any help with the ID and recommendations for a direction to go would be greatly appreciated.

[juicedcoupe]

https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=13059

[RIrc10]

https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=13059

Thank you but I’ve read through this a few times and that’s what I’m confused about because from what I see the front axles would be older than the rear bulkhead and shock towers

[MarkyDents]

I myself know of 3 basically brand new condition early cars, no slots in the lower spring retainers, single hole tower cars that have short wing tube bulkheads. There are definitely anomaly’s out there because of running changes. Furthermore sometimes parts got changed out during a build for a multitude of reasons. To figure out a time placing a particular chassis I go by the majority of parts.

[juicedcoupe]

And don't forget that parts get replaced over 30 years time. Many times, its with whats available.

If I had to choose an item to study closer, it'd probably be the ball cups.

[RIrc10]

And don't forget that parts get replaced over 30 years time. Many times, its with whats available.

If I had to choose an item to study closer, it'd probably be the ball cups.

All most all of them have a hex at the cups

[juicedcoupe]

Everything I see points to a late A stamp car.

[jwscab]

Yeah it's a Cadillac car. And probably either had parts replaced or running changes made. It's also possible that some one fitted newer parts to a car missing pieces to get it whole again.

[RIrc10]

Thank you guys for all your time. I’m thinking it’s got running changes because all of the parts are yellowed the same. Now to figure out what the correct tires, wheels and other things like tie rods should be

[MarkyDents]

Like these. Clipped from the 25 year thread

[juicedcoupe]

Now to figure out what the correct tires, wheels and other things like tie rods should be

How "correct" do you want to be?

Unless you get lucky, nice early style 3 piece wheels and corresponding tires tend to be kinda stupidly priced. I went with the JConcepts 1.7/1.9 tires are wheels on my short arm car, which are still available new.

The threaded rods that you have are correct. The correct linkage for the servo would be wire linkages and two collars.

The ball cups on the sway bar are wrong. Those look like Tamiya pieces. I believe that the Du-Bro 2-56, semi-clear cups are close.

What type of battery mounting position do you want? Modern stick packs don't fit the early sideways mounting without modification. Mounting the battery inline (my preference) requires drilling new holes in the chassis. Shortly lipo packs and different battery cups (or brackets) give you some other options, but they definitely don't look anywhere near original.

[RIrc10]

Now to figure out what the correct tires, wheels and other things like tie rods should be

How "correct" do you want to be?

Unless you get lucky, nice early style 3 piece wheels and corresponding tires tend to be kinda stupidly priced. I went with the JConcepts 1.7/1.9 tires are wheels on my short arm car, which are still available new.

The threaded rods that you have are correct. The correct linkage for the servo would be wire linkages and two collars.

The ball cups on the sway bar are wrong. Those look like Tamiya pieces. I believe that the Du-Bro 2-56, semi-clear cups are close.

What type of battery mounting position do you want? Modern stick packs don't fit the early sideways mounting without modification. Mounting the battery inline (my preference) requires drilling new holes in the chassis. Shortly lipo packs and different battery cups (or brackets) give you some other options, but they definitely don't look anywhere near original.

Well I’ve got lucky at a hobby shop going through his old stuff. I’ve pulled out a set of jellybean, and the tq I think they are but I’m gonna get the jconcepts. I’m not sure on the battery location yet but I’ve got some small lipos from my crawlers I think would go sideways. As far as tie rods I was thinking turn buckles unless I can get these cleaned up. I’ve got apart cleaning and replacing warn stuff.

[RIrc10]

I’ve been lucky digging through the hobby shops old stuff lol. New in package felts, composite craft shock towers new unglued tq wheels some complete sets of shock springs and other stuff for 60$ lol.

[JosephS]

I’ve been lucky digging through the hobby shops old stuff lol. New in package felts, composite craft shock towers new unglued tq wheels some complete sets of shock springs and other stuff for 60$ lol.

The tires are quite the find.