Ideal vintage 2wd wheelbase
-
- Approved Member
- Posts: 115
- Joined: Sun Nov 21, 2010 2:43 pm
- Location: Shrewsbury PA
- Has thanked: 46 times
- Been thanked: 13 times
Ideal vintage 2wd wheelbase
Having mostly Tamiya and Associated 2wd buggies in my runner stable, I am used to the 10.5-ish wheelbase common in gold tubs and Madcaps. I picked up a Traxxas Bandit awhile back and will probably get into modding it this winter. The first thing that struck me was how long its wheelbase was, like the old limo chassis TRX-1 (somewhere in the realm of 11.25") I'm guessing a longer wheelbase probably adds an understeer-y feel but aids stability. My JRX-Pro has an equally long wheelbase which was stretched over the previous JR-X2 which was more akin to the gold tub RC10. Traxxas went the other way, reducing the TRX-1 wheelbase with the follow-up TRX-3. Interestingly, Kyosho seemed to split the difference with a 11" wheelbase on their Triumph. So what was the purpose of all the wheelbase changing? Why did Losi go longer while Traxxas went shorter? Is there an ideal wheelbase for this style of buggy? I'm making a custom chassis for my Bandit which is what brought these question to mind.
-
- Approved Member
- Posts: 1806
- Joined: Thu Mar 23, 2017 5:31 pm
- Has thanked: 1203 times
- Been thanked: 598 times
Re: Ideal vintage 2wd wheelbase
I would think that top speed and track design would be influences on wheel base. Having a short track, lower speed and lots of twists would be better for a shorter wheel base to improve turning aggressiveness. Go to 1/8Th scale with long tracks, fast top speed and sweeper turns you can run longer chassis.Saito wrote: ↑Sat Nov 13, 2021 12:27 pm Having mostly Tamiya and Associated 2wd buggies in my runner stable, I am used to the 10.5-ish wheelbase common in gold tubs and Madcaps. I picked up a Traxxas Bandit awhile back and will probably get into modding it this winter. The first thing that struck me was how long its wheelbase was, like the old limo chassis TRX-1 (somewhere in the realm of 11.25") I'm guessing a longer wheelbase probably adds an understeer-y feel but aids stability. My JRX-Pro has an equally long wheelbase which was stretched over the previous JR-X2 which was more akin to the gold tub RC10. Traxxas went the other way, reducing the TRX-1 wheelbase with the follow-up TRX-3. Interestingly, Kyosho seemed to split the difference with a 11" wheelbase on their Triumph. So what was the purpose of all the wheelbase changing? Why did Losi go longer while Traxxas went shorter? Is there an ideal wheelbase for this style of buggy? I'm making a custom chassis for my Bandit which is what brought these question to mind.
- Coelacanth
- Approved Member
- Posts: 7421
- Joined: Thu Jul 29, 2010 6:20 pm
- Location: Alberta, Canada
- Has thanked: 16 times
- Been thanked: 325 times
Re: Ideal vintage 2wd wheelbase
That's a great question. Why did 1/10-scale cars get significantly larger? Lord knows. They lengthened wheelbases, pushing the wheels farther apart, while widening the track accordingly, pushing the wheels outward as much as possible. Today's 1/10-scale car is way bigger than decades ago. RC cars (buggies, anyway) today look nothing like real buggies. Today's buggies do ridiculous jumps that bear no similarity to real-scale performance...just as RC helicopters do absolutely ridiculous sh!t that no real helicopter could do...because the toys are so much lighter and overpowered relative to their 1:1 counterparts.
Steering performance, understeer/oversteer is affected by so many factors that there's no perfect-for-all recommendation. Weight, weight distribution, wheelbase, track width all play a role, and what works for one chassis will be totally different for another.
Steering performance, understeer/oversteer is affected by so many factors that there's no perfect-for-all recommendation. Weight, weight distribution, wheelbase, track width all play a role, and what works for one chassis will be totally different for another.
Completed projects: CYANide Onroad Optima | Zebra Gold Optima | Barney Optima | OptiMutt RWD Mid
Gallery - Coel's Stalls: Marui Galaxy & Shogun Resto-Mods | FrankenBuff AYK Buffalo | 1987 Buick GNX RC12L3
Gallery - Coel's Stalls: Marui Galaxy & Shogun Resto-Mods | FrankenBuff AYK Buffalo | 1987 Buick GNX RC12L3
-
- Approved Member
- Posts: 4054
- Joined: Sun Apr 24, 2016 2:21 pm
- Location: Guildford UK
- Has thanked: 2697 times
- Been thanked: 2234 times
Re: Ideal vintage 2wd wheelbase
The racing rules on size probably led to the size 1/10 cars became but originally they were scale models , all the original Tamiya offerings were anyway so the length and width were just copied not dictated by a set of racing rules.
If a jobs not worth doing then its certainly not worth doing well.
A problem shared is a problem halved but an advantage shared is no advantage at all.
A problem shared is a problem halved but an advantage shared is no advantage at all.
- TRX-1-3
- Approved Member
- Posts: 2009
- Joined: Sat Mar 29, 2014 12:13 pm
- Location: USAG Humphreys, South Korea
- Has thanked: 1935 times
- Been thanked: 941 times
Re: Ideal vintage 2wd wheelbase
I concur with this assessment. There are wheelbase and track width adjustments on many of the competition grade buggies from bitd. I think it is a combination of track size, surface conditions, driving style, etc.JosephS wrote: ↑Sat Nov 13, 2021 1:41 pmI would think that top speed and track design would be influences on wheel base. Having a short track, lower speed and lots of twists would be better for a shorter wheel base to improve turning aggressiveness. Go to 1/8Th scale with long tracks, fast top speed and sweeper turns you can run longer chassis.Saito wrote: ↑Sat Nov 13, 2021 12:27 pm Having mostly Tamiya and Associated 2wd buggies in my runner stable, I am used to the 10.5-ish wheelbase common in gold tubs and Madcaps. I picked up a Traxxas Bandit awhile back and will probably get into modding it this winter. The first thing that struck me was how long its wheelbase was, like the old limo chassis TRX-1 (somewhere in the realm of 11.25") I'm guessing a longer wheelbase probably adds an understeer-y feel but aids stability. My JRX-Pro has an equally long wheelbase which was stretched over the previous JR-X2 which was more akin to the gold tub RC10. Traxxas went the other way, reducing the TRX-1 wheelbase with the follow-up TRX-3. Interestingly, Kyosho seemed to split the difference with a 11" wheelbase on their Triumph. So what was the purpose of all the wheelbase changing? Why did Losi go longer while Traxxas went shorter? Is there an ideal wheelbase for this style of buggy? I'm making a custom chassis for my Bandit which is what brought these question to mind.
There was a factory option short wheelbase chassis available for the TRX-1 and also a factory option long wheelbase chassis for the TRX-3/TCP. The TCP specifically also had wide front track width parts in the kit as optional.
I had no idea as a kid about any of the chassis options, even though they were listed right in the parts sheets. Who had the $50+ bucks for that stuff when any benefit other than cool factor would not be noticed by a casual Sunday/club racer. At least that was me. I would definately love to have a SWB TRX-1 and a LWB TRX-3 now but just for the cool factor...
I think Dadio is nail on the head with the rules aspect of todays cars. Push those corners out to clownish "scale" proportions for use on these modern high-grip turf and carpet surfaces, mad air, etc.
Hope you're doin' something fun.
-
- Approved Member
- Posts: 115
- Joined: Sun Nov 21, 2010 2:43 pm
- Location: Shrewsbury PA
- Has thanked: 46 times
- Been thanked: 13 times
Re: Ideal vintage 2wd wheelbase
Thanks for the insights. In reading, the Bandit seems kind of prone to understeer. I'm thinking of bringing it down to a RC10 length wheelbase.
- RC10th
- Approved Member
- Posts: 4698
- Joined: Sat Feb 16, 2013 9:51 am
- Location: Australia
- Has thanked: 50 times
- Been thanked: 1492 times
Re: Ideal vintage 2wd wheelbase
My brain says shorter arm cars would require a shorter chassis and longer arm cars would require a longer chassis to get the weight transfer balance right.
I was old school - when old school wasn't cool !
Create an account or sign in to join the discussion
You need to be a member in order to post a reply
Create an account
Not a member? register to join our community
Members can start their own topics & subscribe to topics
It’s free and only takes a minute
Sign in
-
- Similar Topics
- Replies
- Views
- Last post
-
- 18 Replies
- 3121 Views
-
Last post by MotoObscura
-
- 13 Replies
- 2323 Views
-
Last post by V12
-
- 6 Replies
- 1105 Views
-
Last post by USA-1
-
- 31 Replies
- 6442 Views
-
Last post by LurkingCAT
-
- 4 Replies
- 1119 Views
-
Last post by jamin
-
- 0 Replies
- 673 Views
-
Last post by tecnica2001
-
- 39 Replies
- 6471 Views
-
Last post by Chewbacca
-
- 9 Replies
- 2248 Views
-
Last post by cautrell05
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 10 guests