Kyosho Turbo Optima Legendary series - 30619

[silvertriple]

This morning, I finally started the Turbo Optima build.

The Turbo Optima was one of my teenager dreams, same as the Javelin. I ordered the Turbo Optima a few months back when it came back in the inventory. And few days later, I also ordered the Javelin, just because I wanted to build the Javelin first before the Turbo Optima. I knew the Turbo Optima was intended for my 50's birthday, and I could not crack the blisters before September. The Javelin was a way to wait for this...
The key difference with the Javelin on the chassis side are (beside the Gold finish of the metal parts) : the shocks, the sway bars, the under tray, and the wheels set. While I've put a 13.5T motor and a 60A ESC in the Javelin, the Turbo Optima will benefit of a 10.5T motor and a 120A ESC. The ESC allows for much less than a 10.5T (I could eventually go down to 6.5T), but then I would need specific batteries for the Turbo Optima, which is something I did not opt for at this stage. That being said, I may change ideal later...

First, as usual, the box


And again a nice presentation inside...


Started to get the parts out of the boxes first, and then just put the wheels on the side, after having assembled them to gain a little bit of room in the big box...



Then I laid down all the parts bag on the work area. one key difference here with the Javelin: all the plastic part trees are black while on the Javelin, there was some red parts for the shocks.


Metal parts bag A
As usual, I open the bag, take all the parts of it and sort them. Trying to be methodic as much as possible avoid asking myself lot of questions while doing the assembly


The start, is the same as the Javelin, you build the front and rear diffs halves


And then you assemble the second halves (you have to choose here between the chain and the belt, same as the Javelin at one single exception : the chain is not present in the kit, it is an option while it was present in the Javelin kit). This car is going to be a brushless one, so the belt again


And diffs are done...


Next is the rear diff box...


You have to insert the shaft temporarily to position the final gear


Once this is assembled, the shaft is back in the tray, and the part bag A is over


Metal parts bag B
Again laid down the parts. Gold bling appears on the tray...


First is to assemble the front diff box around the belt...


Then you add the belt trays (the image is blur, sorry for that. For the small story, this looks easy but it's not, because until more steps are done, that is not fixed, as the the Optima chassis allows for some play in order to work out chain/belt tension)...


Next is to prepare the assembly, with the motor guard, and the motor plate...


And they get all together at next step. Two differences with the Javelin here: no wing mount (I may change this later) and the undertray present on the Turbo Optima but in option on the Javelin and the Optima.


And this is the end of the bag B... That's all for today, and I will start bag C once the envy will come

[silvertriple]

Initially, I was thinking: “that’s over for today”… But after the lunch, envy came back!

Metal parts bag C
As usual I started by laying down all the parts of the bag


The first thing is to prepare the Front under guard and to put it in place on the chassis. That finally seals the front and the rear side. One thing to note, I had difficulty to tighten the screws going in the front of the U shaped part which is used for the Turbo Optima to maintain the sway bar. I had the same difficulty with the Javelin. I start to think the best way is probably to put the U shaped part in place after the front under guard. The bridge is also added at that step. This will be us later to fix the radio plate in its center.


Next Is as with the Javelin the steering mechanism and the servo saver. I did not mount the servo horn and tie rod at this stage, although I could have, but for this, I would have to opened another metal parts bag (I did not). One thing is that I noticed there is a hole within the under tray to allow this. Let’s do it Kyosho way (I’m very much confident I can do it more easily than what I did last time)…


Next step is the side plates, and the front upper links attachments…


And comes the Slipper clutch


The nylon nut needs to be tighten to the face of the shaft


And to finish the bag C, we build the front and rear upper links

Bag C is over, time for a drink

Pats Metal Bag D
It starts by the rear shock tower, and upper links are fixed at the same time.



The front shock tower is mounted at the same step


At the next step, the wishbones are joining the chassis. A difference with the Javelin, as there is a ball on each one to attach the sway bars



Front hub carriers are next…


And the bag D finishes with the front hub carriers, and the dog bones join the chassis. One small difference again with the Javelin. On the Turbo Optima, there is some O-rings to insert in the out diffs (I don’t remember having done this with the Javelin, and I checked, it is not in the manual for the Javelin)…


The operations are over for today as I need to free the table to avoid any contestation from my domestic dragon

[XLR8]

Very nicely documented - just like your Javelin build.
I was a bit disappointed to find an empty blister where there should have been a chain.
This model is the pinnacle of Kyosho's Legendary Optima series but it appears they suddenly went cheap on us for some reason. It doesn't make sense.

[silvertriple]

Very nicely documented - just like your Javelin build.
I was a bit disappointed to find an empty blister where there should have been a chain.
This model is the pinnacle of Kyosho's Legendary Optima series but it appears they suddenly went cheap on us for some reason. It doesn't make sense.

Thanks. Maybe I should also post a few other of my builds from before I joined this forum (Turbo Scorpion, Super Hotshot, ...)

For the chain: Well, to be clear, I also found this surprising, specially considering that it is present for both Optima and Javelin. That being said, it seems that most Turbo Optima I see on fb groups i'm on are actually running brushless setup. In this regard, the chain doesn't make any sense. Further, most of the owners have also an Optima or a Javelin or both... I have already the chain myself: it won't be mounted in my case (I'll keep it, it may become useful if I can find a Samurai at some point ).

Other things surprising is the o-ring to be inserted in the diff cups at the front end. There was nothing like this in the Javelin instruction manual, and nothing justify this as the parts are all the same, at the only exception of the Gold finish. That said, I suspect the gold anodisation is thicker than the Optima/Javelin original finish : the rear wishbones were slightly tied in, I had to sand them on the side so they have a similar free play than on the Javelin...

Overal, it remains a very nice and enjoyable build...

[XLR8]

Hmm, that's interesting. I don't recall a tight fit with any of the parts included in my kit. I suppose there could be some variability in manufacturing and finishing processes that would create more squeeze on the arms. I totally missed the bit about adding o-rings to the drive cups. To be fair, it was a long time between the two builds for me and my memory doesn't work so well these days.

Anyway, it's an absolutely stunning model when completed and an enjoyable build so I'll overlook the missing chain.
From the outset, my copy was destined for display so it simply had to be chain drive like the original. I found a chain for it somewhere.

I'd be very interested in seeing your Super Hotshot build.

[silvertriple]

I'd be very interested in seeing your Super Hotshot build.

I take note of this and will do at some point
[spoiler]
teaser

[/spoiler]

[silvertriple]

It was raining outside, so decided to move on with the build

Parts metal bag E
Time to put assemble the steering rods and put them in place. I generally does the 2 before putting them in place so I can ensure they are the same length


At the next step, the sway bar is attached. The plastic part is snapped on the balls. Unfortunately one of them broke (the plastic is really rigid, it did not broke when I put it in place, but when I placed the second one – I may try to model this part and print alternatives one in PETG).


Next are rear carriers…


Which joins chassis at the next step. E-ring is used for bottom as well as for the front carrier. One of them flew while I was trying to put in place, and I could not find it. Not sure where it went. Thanks I have some spares somewhere.


Rear sway bar takes place. Same issue as the front with one of the plastic part (I guess this is going to be my next 3D model activity).


The next step is to prepare the radio plate



Normally it should join the chassis right after, but I decided to anticipate the servo link fixation, as it is definitely easier than to do it with the radio deck in place. I had to open the next bag for this.


While the bag is opened, I just put the spur gear in place to save a little of room in the screw cup


I then put the radio plate in place, and also anticipate the antenna wire, again to clean a bit my now full screw cup (as there is part of the Metal part F in this one.


Bag E is no over, I cleaned up the table, as it was going to be soon the time for lunch… You may look at my work organization to ease the move when it is time to free the table:

• White box includes tools, electronics, part trees and everything else useful

• The box is closed by a plate that I use to do the assembly

• The box is large enough so you can put the kit box on top of it with the chassis, and move that without any risk for your chassis or parts to move away

Time for lunch, this afternoon will be shocks as it is raining outside…

[silvertriple]

The weather is variable this afternoon, but it is raining. As planned earlier today, Shocks!

First you take the shocks bodies, and you remove the piece where the piston rod goes and you work out the tools for the shocks mounts (yes, there is tools , just like the Javelin – no pictures for those).


You have the seal to put in place. Some people find this difficult; I struggled a bit when building the Turbo Scorpion, but once you’ve understood how to do it is pretty easy and quick. I align the part with more material with the places where there is no thread, and push the seal with my nails, slowly, thread by thread alternatively on the right and left side of the part. It moves down to the end of the thread.


And I repeated that 4 times as there is 4 shocks. Next I laid down the part for each shock to make sure I’m not missing anything with a proper double check before starting to assemble


I then assembled the shocks piston. Seems I missed a picture here as I don’t have it (maybe was too much focus on what I was doing )
I then use the Tamiya tools tray to fill the shock bodies and to proceed to the insertion of the piston rods.


And finally, I got all the hydraulics assembled, full and closed. But for this time one of the front shocks was not perfect. The first body I tried to assemble was giving me issues. When the piston was failing to move properly inside the body, I thought that maybe one of the part was not properly cut from the tree. But I did try the same piston on next shock body, and that was not the same. The shock body had apparently a surfacing issue. I don’t like to stop on a fail situation, so I assemble the 3 other shocks and start to think about my issue. I did use 1200 sand paper on the biggest part of the piston, doing multiple try until it moves as freely as the other one, and finally closed the fourth shock. Manufacturing issue? I’ll drop a mail to Kyosho and to my dealer for advice in any case.


Next is the setting rings for the shocks. There is an o-ring inside, you must oil it, and it becomes very difficult to put inside the setting ring, but it went well and at the end, I’m ready for next steps


Finally, I have four proper shocks (first time I spend that much time to do 4 shocks – about 2 hours – the front shock issue made a lot for this)


Next step was to put them on the chassis, and nothing to highlight here it is the same as the Javelin


Next I went to set my RX, and check the steering servo was centered before installing it in place. Basically, it’s set to 0 on the trims, I installed it and adjusted the steering rods to have it perfectly straight at 0. I set it this way also on the Javelin, and it’s perfect (and since I mounted the steering rod earlier, this step did not took as long as what it was with the Javelin ). The RX is also positioned in its definitive place.


Next I installed the motor in the chassis. And the wheels... One screw remains, it is for the driver head








That’s it for the chassis. There is still a bit of work for the ESC, as I did not mount it yet. I will have to do some soldering for this. And there is the paintjob for both the driver and the bodyshell. I will need to cut the body shell first. But I won’t do those today!

[XLR8]

It's really unfortunate to read that your sway bar parts have broken.
However, if you will contact Kyosho, I feel very confident they will send you replacements.
I've had to reach out to them a couple times for replacements and both times they were extremely helpful.
Customers shouldn't need to source replacements for parts that fail straight from the box.
I believe Kyosho recognizes that mistakes happen and they will make it right.

[silvertriple]

It's really unfortunate to read that your sway bar parts have broken.
However, if you will contact Kyosho, I feel very confident they will send you replacements.
I've had to reach out to them a couple times for replacements and both times they were extremely helpful.
Customers shouldn't need to source replacements for parts that fail straight from the box.
I believe Kyosho recognizes that mistakes happen and they will make it right.

Well, I will also mention the sway bar parts when writing them about the front shock surfacing issues. I'll see what is their feedback.

[silvertriple]

Looking at the 3 legendary series I have at home, I noticed the shocks have the same internals between the Javelin, the Turbo Optima and Turbo Scorpion (I check the instructions manuals). They use the same cluster, and the only difference for the Turbo Optima is the color of the cluster (black for the Turbo Optima, red for the two others). Other difference is the externals where the Gold version from the Turbo Optima has a setting ring with a threaded shock body.

And if you want the gold shocks of the Turbo Optima in red, my conclusion is that they exist, as HG shocks for the Turbo Scorpion...
This is wrong. Optional HG Shocks for the Scorpion seems to be much more complex than the Turbo Optima Gold ones. They are red, and springs are black.

[silvertriple]

On the OTW102 parts broken, I just did a design in Tinkercad, I will have to print them once I restart my printer.



I also sent a message to Kyosho, we'll see...

[silvertriple]

On the OTW102 parts broken, I just did a design in Tinkercad, I will have to print them once I restart my printer.



I also sent a message to Kyosho, we'll see...

Got a very good feedback from Kyosho today by mail. They are sending me replacement parts...
For the defective shock, they are asking me to send them for analysis, but as it is mounted now, I'm just keeping the way it is as with the sanding done on the piston side, it seems to work the same way as the other side (and I actually don't know on which side the defective shock is ).
I also mentioned the screws which seemed to be longer than the hole they should go in within the U shaped support to fix the front under guard (I had the same issue with the Javelin), but I had to precise further as it seems they don't have the same instruction manual in front of them. I sent pictures to be more precise.
And it seems the OTW126 will be back in inventory very soon so I may finally have a runner rather than a wheelie car

[silvertriple]

Impressive after sales service from Kyosho: received a Chronopost today (it's the 24h postal service here) from Kyosho Europe with replacement parts. I did contact them on Sunday evening with no expectations, while modeling parts into Tinkercad as a plan B.

Not all the brands have an after sales service that efficient, and that's worth mentioning. Thanks Kyosho!

[XLR8]

Impressive after sales service from Kyosho: received a Chronopost today (it's the 24h postal service here) from Kyosho Europe with replacement parts. I did contact them on Sunday evening with no expectations, while modeling parts into Tinkercad as a plan B.

Not all the brands have an after sales service that efficient, and that's worth mentioning. Thanks Kyosho!

That's awesome.
In my experience with Kyosho RC models, their parts are manufactured to the very highest quality standards but when a flawed part slips through the QC system (it happens), they are very quick to react. You only need to bring it to their attention.

"KYOSHO: the finest radio controlled models".
I think the moto sums it up pretty well.