Yes Dadio has finally got an old AE RC10 ! A well used A stamp that's never going to be show standard , I'm probably not doing a build thread but there will be the inevitable questions
I've stripped down most of it except the gearbox and put all the nylon bits in water to rehydrate for a few days .
So far I've been making do with tools that are metric but near enough , so my first question is
1, What are the hex key and nut sizes that I'll need ?
If a jobs not worth doing then its certainly not worth doing well.
A problem shared is a problem halved but an advantage shared is no advantage at all.
.035 for idler gears. New idlers come with a simple Allen key.
.050 for pinion and steering linkage. Likely can skip this one!
1/16 for chassis screws. This is the most valuable driver
5/64 only for stealth trans adjustment and you can use a 2mm in its place. Skip this one
3/32 for cap head screws. This is the second most valuable driver
3/16 nut driver for ball studs
1/4” nut driver for the common 4-40 and 5-40 nuts
11/32” nut driver for rear wheels and bellcrank nuts.
Thanks , I'll get those ordered , I hate using the wrong tool and although I do have a pretty good set of imperial tools for full size cars all the stuff I have in small sizes are metric .
If a jobs not worth doing then its certainly not worth doing well.
A problem shared is a problem halved but an advantage shared is no advantage at all.
Well I don't wana alienate the US Contingent but the diff's in the wrong place , there's loads of slop in the rest of the gearbox and they sort of copied the Tamiya Sand Rover chassis in heavy garish gold metal rather than light plastic , otherwise it's not too bad for an 80's buggy
Can anybody point me at some compatible tires as well ?
If a jobs not worth doing then its certainly not worth doing well.
A problem shared is a problem halved but an advantage shared is no advantage at all.
Next question , I'm missing a nut and bolt from the gearbox , I have the three that go all through to the motor plate but the one at the bottom that just holds the two halves of the box together is missing , could you let me know what I'm looking for please.
If a jobs not worth doing then its certainly not worth doing well.
A problem shared is a problem halved but an advantage shared is no advantage at all.
It’s a 4/40 x 5/8” socket head cap screw with a small pattern 4/40 nut. Wish you were close, they are fairly easy to source here. The nuts may be a challenge overseas. Usually they would have a 1/4” drive, these small pattern nuts have a 3/16 drive
Thanks I'll try Margnor fastenings , they are local to me and still stick Whitworth and BA , very useful place as I also make replica WW2 Airsoft rifles , MG's and SMG's using as many real parts as legally possible in the UK Great little shop ! Don't know how they survive , they will sell you single screw as well !
If a jobs not worth doing then its certainly not worth doing well.
A problem shared is a problem halved but an advantage shared is no advantage at all.
If a jobs not worth doing then its certainly not worth doing well.
A problem shared is a problem halved but an advantage shared is no advantage at all.
Got the tools , screws and extra bearings for the diff outdrives ordered , as well as an under chassis guard protective stick on plastic decal thing .
If a jobs not worth doing then its certainly not worth doing well.
A problem shared is a problem halved but an advantage shared is no advantage at all.
I am using the manual , it came with them , there's a picture book and a text book , never seen that before , must admit I've just been using the pictures so far .
If a jobs not worth doing then its certainly not worth doing well.
A problem shared is a problem halved but an advantage shared is no advantage at all.
Great little shop ! Don't know how they survive , they will sell you single screw as well !