Turbo Mid Score

[FasterLouder]

I hope everyone is coping with the pandemic as best you can.

I just picked this lot up, it cost me a good US$300, but I think it's worth it.
Sold the Dynatech to a mate, so that took the cost down.
Looks like a Proline or JG truck conversion and a Sassy chassis-might put some tires on it and run it for giggles!
I have some new front shocks, here, does anyone have a new SWB chassis?
I can't believe how good the box is!

[FasterLouder]

That's a Custom Special chassis, isn't it?
I've got a carbon Mid Special chassis, too, and a new set of wheels...somewhere.

[TheDiamondOne]

U have to do a box art resto and enter in BOTM! Will you please?

[FasterLouder]

U have to do a box art resto and enter in BOTM! Will you please?

Absolutely!
Just trying to find a new SWB chassis and I think I sold the new wheels I had, too.

[TheDiamondOne]

Go to MarwanRC. Has original tires, body. Go with pargustore for aluminum wheels.

[FasterLouder]

Marwan was out of stock, so I went with a Penguin body, wing, undertray and spur cover.
The Bluegroove bodies I've been buying for other projects had thin spots everywhere. I bought a Penguin undertray for my Lazer ZX and the quality was much better.

Picked up a NIP SWB upper chassis and a decal sheet.

I just need a new, or nice SWB chassis!

Does anyone know if a Turbo Mid should have plastic or alloy steering knuckles?
Mine came with both.

[Coelacanth]

Does anyone know if a Turbo Mid should have plastic or alloy steering knuckles?
Mine came with both.

Original knuckles are cast aluminum, same as the Optima. Nylon knuckles might be an upgrade option.

Sorry to hear your TBG body experiences weren't up to par, I hope their QA isn't slipping...everything I've bought from them has been excellent in that regard, but there's always some minor fitment issues. They're all slightly smaller than original as their bodies are pulled off of original bodies, not molds, and there's some shrinkage with that procedure.

[FasterLouder]

Does anyone know if a Turbo Mid should have plastic or alloy steering knuckles?
Mine came with both.

Original knuckles are cast aluminum, same as the Optima. Nylon knuckles might be an upgrade option.

Sorry to hear your TBG body experiences weren't up to par, I hope their QA isn't slipping...everything I've bought from them has been excellent in that regard, but there's always some minor fitment issues. They're all slightly smaller than original as their bodies are pulled off of original bodies, not molds, and there's some shrinkage with that procedure.

Cool, I've got a few pairs of each.
The nylon ones do seem zoomier and more modern.

The last 2 or 3 TBG bodies had sections that were so thin that I couldn't cut along the correct cut lines, it would just disintegrate.
I'll let you know what the Penguin body is like when it arrives. Their Lazer undertray blew the TBG body away.

This is the last TBG body I ordered and it was sketchy behind the rear wheels. Super thin.

[FasterLouder]

I picked up a regular Optima Mid chassis, so I could mock everything up, especially the body, before a NIP chassis I've secured arrives. Guy even traded me a set of Mid rims for some Triumph battery trays.
The Penguin body, spur cover, wing and undertray arrived today, along with a NIP upper chassis and it's MUCH nicer than the last few Bluegroove bodies I've used.
No thin spots, good, visible cut lines.
Sadly no dimples on the wing to guide where to drill, but no biggie.
I used some Tamiya PS31 Smoke to tint the spur gear cover and I think it came out good, certainly better than a clear one.
Rebuilt the best set of Gold shocks I have with new AE 'O' rings and man are they smooth!
I've got quite a few sets of Gold shocks and I might just get them all re-anodized.
A set of Marwan's tires will be gracing this Mid.
Money's pretty tight, at the moment, so this restoration will take a month, or two, unless someone buys my RC10 Graphite.

The body needs more clean up work with sandpaper and a hobby knife, but here it is, so far, mocked up.

[FasterLouder]

Is there anyone out there who can measure where the wing holes go on an Optima Mid?
The reproduction wing I have is really nice, but there are no dimples, or guides where to drill the holes, and I want it right.
Can anyone take a tape measure to an original Kyosho Mid wing and let me know where to drill? In mm?
Thanks!

[XLR8]

We're very much hoping that you're okay after the earthquake.

99% certain this is an original wing. Holes appear to be about 27mm back.

Please chime in when you can and let us know how you are doing, okay?

[FasterLouder]

We're very much hoping that you're okay after the earthquake.

99% certain this is an original wing. Holes appear to be about 27mm back.

Please chime in when you can and let us know how you are doing, okay?

Awesome, thanks!
We didn't even feel the earthquakes. The Tsunami warnings blasting out of everyone's phones were alarming!
Thankfully, no Tsunami, either.
Thanks for asking! And thanks for the wing measurement!

That looks great, I just painted the black parts of the body and wing!

Looks like I might be trading a bunch of parts and decals for another Mid at the end of March!
Always loved the look of the white body on the first Mid.
The Turbo's going box art, as per usual.

Anyone know of a sure fire yellow for the Turbo Mids?
Parma Fasyellow looks close, might give it a tiny drop of fluro orange?

[FasterLouder]

We're very much hoping that you're okay after the earthquake.

99% certain this is an original wing. Holes appear to be about 27mm back.

Please chime in when you can and let us know how you are doing, okay?

Could I be a complete PITA and ask you to measure how far in the centre of each hole is from the inside of the wing sides?

Looking at Parma Fasyellow and it looks really close to box art yellow.
Has anyone found a perfect match, with a Tamiya PS paint, perhaps?

I might be scoring an origional Mid at the end of the month!
Always loved the white body with those decals.

Sold my RC10 Graphite for Turbo Mid funds, so it should ramp up quick! New chassis, Marwan tires and new anything else I can afford!
A set of arms would make this car perfect, so I might grab those, while I'm at it.

[XLR8]

We're very much hoping that you're okay after the earthquake.

99% certain this is an original wing. Holes appear to be about 27mm back.

Please chime in when you can and let us know how you are doing, okay?

Could I be a complete PITA and ask you to measure how far in the centre of each hole is from the inside of the wing sides?

Looking at Parma Fasyellow and it looks really close to box art yellow.
Has anyone found a perfect match, with a Tamiya PS paint, perhaps?

I might be scoring an origional Mid at the end of the month!
Always loved the white body with those decals.

Sold my RC10 Graphite for Turbo Mid funds, so it should ramp up quick! New chassis, Marwan tires and new anything else I can afford!
A set of arms would make this car perfect, so I might grab those, while I'm at it.

No problemo!

Mine measures about 55.5mm.

However, if you're using a reproduction wing, yours might be a little different. What's most important is the center spacing for the wing holes. If you're using the stock wing mount, the holes should be spaced 20mm on center. So, measure the total distance between your wing sides, subtract 20mm and divide by two and that's your distance from side to center of hole. Then, as a final check, verify that the marks you've made for the holes are 20mm apart so that you'll be assured that the wing will drop onto your wing mount. The center distance is most important.

Very happy that y'all suffered no harm from the earthquake and subsequent tsunami!

[FasterLouder]

We're very much hoping that you're okay after the earthquake.

99% certain this is an original wing. Holes appear to be about 27mm back.

Please chime in when you can and let us know how you are doing, okay?

Could I be a complete PITA and ask you to measure how far in the centre of each hole is from the inside of the wing sides?

Looking at Parma Fasyellow and it looks really close to box art yellow.
Has anyone found a perfect match, with a Tamiya PS paint, perhaps?

I might be scoring an origional Mid at the end of the month!
Always loved the white body with those decals.

Sold my RC10 Graphite for Turbo Mid funds, so it should ramp up quick! New chassis, Marwan tires and new anything else I can afford!
A set of arms would make this car perfect, so I might grab those, while I'm at it.

No problemo!

Mine measures about 55.5mm.

P1010775.JPG


However, if you're using a reproduction wing, yours might be a little different. What's most important is the center spacing for the wing holes. If you're using the stock wing mount, the holes should be spaced 20mm on center. So, measure the total distance between your wing sides, subtract 20mm and divide by two and that's your distance from side to center of hole. Then, as a final check, verify that the marks you've made for the holes are 20mm apart so that you'll be assured that the wing will drop onto your wing mount. The center distance is most important.

Very happy that y'all suffered no harm from the earthquake and subsequent tsunami!

Thanks Doug!

You've made my night.
I'm using a stock Kyosho mount with a reproduction wing.
Just bought a slew of parts for the Turbo Mid.
Even got a new OT-91 chassis!
I'm thinking of buying some of those alloy rims and powdercoating them white, should look slick!
Could anodize them white? I'm planning on taking my collection of gold shock bodies and caps in to get re anodized gold.
It'll take a while for all the parts I've ordered to arrive, but I set the car up on a plain Mid chassis to mock up the body, wing and a few other things.
The decals should be here, soon.

Does anyone else have a problem with Optima Mid bodies leaning to the left of the car?
My Mid SE did, with it;s TBG body and this Penguin does a little, too.
I guess that's what undertrays and velcro are for, right?