Project Rebellion MMx (RC10B3/4/44.1.2 is far too long!)

[LTO_Dave]

^

[flipwils11]

http://www.somethingawful.com/news/how-win-any/

[Diggley]

[youtube]?v=arZdeg_fL-I[/youtube]

[Y'ernat Al]

Damn that Rule #11. .........Hoopty had to go to 11. Carry on gentlemen.

[THEYTOOKMYTHUMB]

I hope I didn't fuel any ill feelings with my .gif which was meant purely in jest. I enjoy a well presented intelligent debate which this was shaping up to be. I just happened to have found that earlier and was itching to use it. I'm as intelligent and qualified enough to add to this debate as I am any other... which is not at all. Apologies all around.

Now if you'll excuse me I've noticed several posts in which the text lends itself to being bent into a dirty joke. I have much work to do...

[fredswain]

Wow I started a new job and am gone for a week and come back to find this? That's a bit sad. It's interesting how I'm attacked about a comment I made about Duratrax front wheels on the RC10 on rctech. I mentioned that they yellow, are brittle, and don't take dye well. The yellowing part may be a bit inaccurate since perhaps they are really just a tanish color rather than faded white. Duratrax wheels don't take dye so whatever it is it's ugly and you are stuck with it. The dye comment is very much fact. The brittle aspect is also true however I never stated that they'd break while using them. I never said anything like that at all so there is hardly anything in that statement that needs to be verified by any racers or even bashers for that matter. My wheels chipped around the bearings when just installing the bearings. Would they still work? Sure they would but why do I want to use a pair of ugly tan wheels that don't match anything else that chip just from installing bearings? A quality product really shouldn't do that. I gave mine away and won't ever buy another set. This is the last I will respond to any criticism from anyone so please save the effort to get a rise out of me. This was it. From now on my contributions will stay on topic for those who are interested. For those who aren't I'm sure you can find other threads to entertain you.

Since this thread has spiraled away from the goal of sharing my project with people who may be interested it's time to get it back on track. It isn't a project for everyone. It is a project to learn, explore, and try new things, whether they work or not. It's hardly anything where any wild theories are being "spewed" by anyone. Actually I've never done that anywhere. I'm doing what I always do which is describing what I am trying, my reasons for trying those things based on what I've learned from other ideas, and then sharing my results. They might work. They might not. It is hardly making any claims about anything. I guess some people don't like the fact that you won't necessarily do things their way on your own project but I have clearly stated what I am going to try and there are many things I want to try before I settle on any particular one.

So for an update, as I've stated already I was gone from the forum for a week. I took a new job as the Senior Technical Designer at Reliant Heart. My job will involve making improvements to the Heart Assist 5 LVAD heart pump which was designed in conjunction with the late renowned heart doctor, Dr. Michael Debakey and NASA. I will also be a part of the next generation of artificial heart and heart assist pumps. It is an exciting time and as you can imagine, the past week while busy wasn't busy working on my personal hobbies. I have received more G10 to work with so I will continue with this as time allows. Once I get some initial designs out of the way and tested with the G10 construction I will then make those parts again out of carbon fiber. Of course some handling aspects may change in the process but G10 is so much cheaper to design around initially so that's where I'll start. That's the nice thing about personal projects. You can use different materials and not be constrained by production timelines. Thanks to a nice increase in salary again, I am going to be building 2 versions of the car side by side but unlike the initial idea of building a carpet and a dirt version, I am instead going to be doing the same layout but one with the B3 front end and a 30 degree kick and the other with the B4 front end and a 25 degree kick. That will allow a direct side by side comparison of the characteristics of each front end. This week I will work on the main chassis design and will attempt to get it cut out. Hopefully I'll have some visual updates in the next week or so. Thanks to those of you who have messaged me asking about updates. For you, it continues...

[8rad]

Have you ever actually raced? I'm curious what your real world experience is. Not what you read on some forum or what looks good on paper, but actually putting a car on a clay track with 9 other cars and a lap counting system. I would even settle for some kind of verifiable testing at a real off road track. I've seen you spew your theories here and rctech, and I just can't seem to find any experience to support anything you say! Humor me please!!!

Oh, your assessment of Duratrax wheel on rctech was great. The problem is that its not supported by any racer feedback. I have Duratrax wheels that are over 3 years old with at least 100 runs (on a real race track) that haven't yellowed or cracked. The durability issues you posted are realized by guys using them for their bashers, not in race trim.

I didnt realize it was necessary to prove racing pedigree to post projects or opinions.............

Looking forward to updates on this cool project!

[Chewbacca]

Because a friend of mine got a Team C TM2 buggy in a trade. Now he's hooked on RC Cars.

Doing some research I stumbled across this thread, did you ever complete this buggy and have any concluding thoughts?

Thanks, Tony

[Lonestar]

Because a friend of mine got a Team C TM2 buggy in a trade. Now he's hooked on RC Cars.

Doing some research I stumbled across this thread, did you ever complete this buggy and have any concluding thoughts?

Thanks, Tony

I'm not the topic originator but since this is the internet I will shamelessly jump in ...

shaft-driven 2wd's were the hot ticket earlier last decade as people were realizing for good the benefit of a mid-motor, but we still didn't have fully dedicated MM platforms. So people from all horizons hammered together some half4wd rear and half 2wd front cars. Xray even released the XB4 2wd https://www.teamxray.com/xb4-2wd/ which is exactly that (the TM2 followed after, i think). Net, these cars worked well BUT they were really, really hard to drive, you had to have golden fingers to tame them. Plus (sorry...) they looked somewhat ugly, and definitely hacked together (which they were). Once true MM's that were properly developed took over, this was it for these transitional platforms.

Lastly - afaik Team-C has pretty much halted their competition development activities a couple of years ago... and possibly their activities overall for what it's worth. So if your friend is REALLY into RC cars, which is fantastic, I would steer him towards a more recent platform

all the best!
Paul

[Chewbacca]

Thanks Lonestar,

I am just wondering, I was driving my hopelessly over powered Graphite RC10 Mid conversion (flipped stealth tranny) with him, and I had huge problems just to keep the front wheels on the ground. On that day he was driving the AZ Mechanics (French Facebook guy) laydown 4 gear conversion. Was pretty easy to drive with a 13.5 BL.

I’ll keep tinkering