My first rc10!

[jwscab]

ok, on the peroxide, at this point you might be doing more harm than good. it won't make them any brighter/whiter, but it will start to destroy the outer layer of plastic and make it chalky.

worse, you will likely have to soak or reboil in water to leach out the peroxide; if you don't, the peroxide will bleed out of the plastic and remove the gold dye from the anodizing in the tub and damage the tub finish.

the metal parts are cleaning up nicely!

[graemevw]

I was aware of the boiling to get the peroxide out but not so much about the dangers of leaving it too long.
I am already realising they arent going to get anywhere near good enough for how id want them.
Ill either give in and dye them black, or use them as is and slowly replace with better white parts.
There are bubbles, and they are lightening in places, bit the staining is staying. I guess whatever has stained them has done the same as dye would.

Thanks for the warning.

[jwscab]

yep. i know how you are feeling but sometimes, the damage is already done and it can't be reversed. either way you are thinking is a good idea. the gold tub with black parts looks pretty great in my opinion....especially freshly dyed.

[graemevw]

yep. i know how you are feeling but sometimes, the damage is already done and it can't be reversed. either way you are thinking is a good idea. the gold tub with black parts looks pretty great in my opinion....especially freshly dyed.

I am coming round to it.

Ive took them out the peroxide and am giving them a hot soak. Ill do many.
I was just looking at the plastics again and there appears to be a few issues with their condition.
Some parts have gone translucent and brown. I think this is years soaking in oil.
Some parts are smooth white nylon but with black and purple staining. I think this is from the gold paint which had been used in places.
The arms are odd, they are a speckled greeney grey colour. They also feel more chalky. You can scrape some sections away with a scalpel reasonably easy. Its like they are a slightly different nylon. The staining on these parts scrapes off with a scalpel, but it would be alot of effort to do.
I think alot of the parts where the discolouring is on the surfave would respond really well to gently blasting, but i dont have the equipment. Might even respond to barrel polishing, but i dont have that either.

My main concern about dyeing them is if it will get into the plastic properly as it is.

Also slightly concerned about the texture of the arms. They still seem flexible.
The chalky arms havent even been in the peroxide yet so thats not caused it.

Whatever, they are nasty looking right now. Ill boil them and soak them alot, and consider my options.
I do have a rather nice scheme in my head that will work with black plastics
Are there gold titanium nitride shock shafts that will fit bottom loader shocks? (Purely a visual thing for me)

[jwscab]

MIP made shock shafts with titanium nitride coating, they fit top or bottom load shocks for rc10.

[graemevw]

Thanks

[DennisM]

If it hasn´t been mentioned before -
The front shocks are most likely the rears from a Marui Samurai.

[graemevw]

If it hasn´t been mentioned before -
The front shocks are most likely the rears from a Marui Samurai.

I believe they are. I thought they were kyosho but had a chat about it on tamiyaclub and someone else said samurai too. I think the progressive springs give it away. I have the samurai front shock too. I think they may have found a home with a guy restoring one in australia. Its nice to get leftover rare parts to folk with cars that need them.
It had one mardave apache rear tyre too, shame it didnt have 2 as i like the block design. Im sure someone out there needs it though.

The one thing i am surprised about with this car is the tyres. It came with 2 mrc racemasters, 1 apache tyre and one 4 rib front with no writing. The rest of the car had suffered badly but the tyres are all still super soft with no signs of cracking at all! Shame it didnt have a complete set.

[graemevw]

LOTS of parts have been ordered. First to arrive was a body
bp near me opening times

Got pretty much everything sorted for this car now except the rear wheel inner plastic rings, a diff thrust washer, one ptfe bushing and some nose tubes.

[graemevw]

Cleaned the front tyre, such a shame there is only one. Its in great condition.


Does the no writing 4 rib tyre date this car?


Are they rare?

[graemevw]

Can anyone give me dimensions of the rear tyre inner plastics? If i cant find any, ill make some.
Thanks.

Edit, sorted now

[graemevw]

Just re blacked all the steel screws and ball studs
betta fish things to know

[graemevw]

Just opened the rear shocks. No bladders! Checked the manual, no bladders!
So, there aeration dampers then?

[GoMachV]

correct

[graemevw]

I need to decide what motor im going to put in this. Think ill stay brushed.
Only spare i have is a tamiya dynatech 01r with a 17t rotor.
It has a few plus points...
Its decent, i have it, its about the power i was thinking, its black and gold.
However, tamiya motor in a rc10? Feels a bit wrong.
Any thoughts?