Car#3 RC10DS “DragMaster”

[Phin]

Is there enough gearing in a DD for a 7300-7700KV motor on 2S?

[KidAgain]

Is there enough gearing in a DD for a 7300-7700KV motor on 2S?

i think so I hope so, I know I’m not the only one running 132 feet with direct drive cars and they usually run 32pitch gears in the 53/15 spur to pinion ratio but again I may be wrong.

Not a lot of setup tips on the internet for drag racing

The motor numbers I threw out aren’t absolute still trying to learn figure out what to run.

[KidAgain]

Pleased excuse the crunchy sounding bearings still needs R&R


https://youtu.be/6zbhNSoQNOQ

[KidAgain]

What do you guys suggest for rear shock placement on the drag car straight up and down middle or all the way out.

[KidAgain]

Just some testing on wheel fitment and shock positions added some weight to simulate motor/battery. Front wheels will be color matched to rear.







I’ll have some better pictures with wheels complete and battery mocked up tomorrow.

[KidAgain]

Some better pictures of the mock up, still needs limiters in the rear shocks along with some 80W oil

[KidAgain]

Had a couple of set backs, the J-car DD trans makes the motor stick out the side way to much for the short DS rear arms in turn touching my large 2.2 tires. I'm going to have to try some classic buggy rear arms and bones which are on their way.

Also started to mount the shorty batt pack, wanting to use as much Associated parts so it still looks like an RC10 with body off I used a factory battery cup modified for the front half and for the rear I had to machine my own (saddle) out of aluminum which also works as a spacer so the battery does not touch the spur gear. Still working on it to follow the lines of the chassis.....

O and the printed ESC LCG shelf is awesome thanks for a great product for the classics........

[KidAgain]

Revision 2 completed had to widen the rear track width using classic buggy arms and Lunsford front extended axles to make it look somewhat proportioned.

Also batter tray and hold down completed with modified carbon battery strap, rear shock limiters 1/4” installed. Need to finish pass side rear swaybar link solder electronics slap on wheelie bar and test test test.

One big issue dog bones, I have DS bones at 46mm and RC10 classic bones at 62mm I need 51-55mm I think

[KidAgain]

Wheelie bar installed and a better picture of the modified carbon battery strap, waiting on some 10awg silicone wire so I can upgrade the ESC’s battery wires and some 6mm banana connectors.

After initial testing I’m going to upgrade the electronics to a R1 Wurks Digital 3 ESC and Motor from RotorRon since his support will help greatly on tuning the ESC for my application.

Still need dogbones in the 50-55mm range

[NomadRacer]

Looks wicked!

[KidAgain]

Thanks man here’s a daylight shot with turnbuckle installed on wheelie bar.

[Coelacanth]

That looks great, KidAgain, but with a track width that wide, and wheelbase that short, I'd be really concerned about how twitchy it's gonna steer...that's not something you'll want with a straight-line drag car.

[KidAgain]

Yah maybe I can manipulate steering sensitivity with the remote plus I’m running a super tiny servo (maybe run a gyro if needed?) so not sure how fast in reality it really is.

[KidAgain]

Wwwwwwwwell obviously a body doesn’t exist for this thing so I pulled out a highly damaged DS Mustang body and another highly damaged SC10 body and walla.

Cut off mangled DS rear quarters and fenders install SC10 mangled front fenders, add side skirts and front air dam out of scrap Lexan.

This literally took 2 nights about 6 hours total with Duplicolor peel paint. I will have a nicer truck conversion since integration of 2 scaled bodies will be easier and now I know what I need to do.

Cheers

[therigliveson]

Fantastic, I had a feeling at the beginning this was going to get good!