Factory Works 180* Steering Bellcrank Build

[NomadRacer]

Over the holiday, I got a lot accomplished...

Freshly built Stealth transmission with AVID metal/ceramic bearings, AVID diff balls and sanded diff rings make it slick as snot. FOX Kashima coat B6 shock bodies that I got off of eBay for a great price, along with all the internal shock parts. They are built with the X-Ring seals. The grooves in the trailing arm posts really set it off!

I haven't decided whether to use 1/4" axles with dog bones or 1/4" CVA's. the CVA part number seems to be no good anymore or maybe I'm missing something.

[XLR8]

Groovy Nomad, groovy.
I like it!!

[NomadRacer]

Groovy Nomad, groovy.
I like it!!

Thanks brother!

Waiting on the USPS mail carrier right now, got some goodies due this morning.

[NomadRacer]

I picked up this Tekin 17.5 at a good deal from another forum. It's new in box (I cut the seal) so no worries there. I also got an ESC in yesterdays mail. Working on the wing mounts while waiting on some wing buttons to arrive via USPS. I used my last bit of 3/8" aluminum round bar to make the wing mounts. They are not exactly right, need to get some more alum. and do them over.

[XLR8]

... They are not exactly right, need to get some more alum. and do them over...

Really??
Please sell me your throwaways.
They look very nice to me.

[NomadRacer]

... They are not exactly right, need to get some more alum. and do them over...

C2180wingmount.jpg
Really??
Please sell me your throwaways.
They look very nice to me.

The grooving is kind of wonky, the cutter was dull. Now, I'm low on cutting fluid and metal! Time to re-stock on essentials. I have a cup full of things that are "out of spec"

[NomadRacer]

Make my day USPS!

Wing Buttons arrived a day early from NY... EXOTEK 168BLU. I"m digging them

[XLR8]

Sweet!

[NomadRacer]

I decided not to track down an aluminum motor guard/rear bumper and use the Factory Works kit supplied Kydex. I cut it off with a dremel and re-shaped it with a heat gun and a wood block. if you get the temp and pressure right, you'll get an imprint of the holes in the motor plate in the Kydex... easy drilling that way for the 4-40 screws.

I got some JC Racing RC10 Vintage wheels for the build from the UK. I went with white as I might die them light blue. JC Concepts Space Bar tires for now, may change later to something more aggressive.

I should have some turnbuckles this coming Monday. I don't know if I'll get into installing them till later in the week. I have to go away for medical reasons (heart check up) for a couple of days. It's all routine, still a pain in the butt and cost me money that I could be spending on RC parts.

[XLR8]

Looks great!
Godspeed Nomad.

[NomadRacer]

Looks great!
Godspeed Nomad.

Thanks brother!

Yesterdays USPS delivery brought some Lunsford Titanium goods, RC10GT Wide Front Axles (not listed @ Lunsford, you'll have to ask for them), and some Super Duty, 3.5mm Turnbuckles. I used 4.8mm Lunsford ball studs and Super Duty Rod ends. The servo connection uses 3mm x 16mm Punisher turnbuckle with cut down RPM rod ends. Tight quarters there but everything works out perfectly with the Factory Works 180* bell cranks.

Next, I'll get into some ESC placement and wiring.

[XLR8]

Very nice Nomad.
I haven't used them myself yet but two advantages I see for Lunsford ball cups over RPM's:
- they appear to be a bit smaller than RPM (maybe closer to stock) which could solve that interference problem at the front inner camber and steering link locations
- they will facilitate removal via the broached hex in the ball stud. I always hate to remove a new set of ball cups by popping them off the stud. I think they will not fit as tight when they go back on the second time. I have no evidence to support this -- it's probably just an OCD thing.

Anyway, good work!!! I'm keen to see the next update.

When do you leave for your checkup?

[NomadRacer]

Very nice Nomad.
I haven't used them myself yet but two advantages I see for Lunsford ball cups over RPM's:
- they appear to be a bit smaller than RPM (maybe closer to stock) which could solve that interference problem at the front inner camber and steering link locations
- they will facilitate removal via the broached hex in the ball stud. I always hate to remove a new set of ball cups by popping them off the stud. I think they will not fit as tight when they go back on the second time. I have no evidence to support this -- it's probably just an OCD thing.

Anyway, good work!!! I'm keen to see the next update.

When do you leave for your checkup?

I'm the same, hate to pop a ball cup off due to the risk of damage. I had some left over 4.8mm ball studs from my Monster Beetle so no funds had to be spent. The steering/camber links clear real nice. The Lunsford Punisher ball cups, along with there 4-40 threaded Ti ball studs are very nice also. I've used them multiple times.

I'm headed out this afternoon for Norfolk, VA, 150 miles away. I'll be back sometime around noon on Thursday. I'll still be around via my mobile.

[jwscab]

No, you are right, ball cups installed more than one time will be weaker. I hate doin that myself. I've found if you sort of 'roll' the cup off the ball in line with the tie rod, it's a little gentler on the ball cup. Like, grab the tie rod and lift up in the same plane. I've been knocking the hinge pins out lately to work on the car and leaving the ball links connected unless absolutely necessary.

[NomadRacer]

I'm back! Nothing unusual to report.

Pigtails soldered onto the Tekin motor. Next is the speed control wires. I'm going to shorten them up some.