My Hero
A '91 Stealth RC10 project
- Sticksnpuck
- Regular Member
- Posts: 12
- Joined: Sat Aug 18, 2018 9:58 am
- Location: Edmonton, AB Canada
- Been thanked: 2 times
Re: A '91 Stealth RC10 project
Spectacular, that is a work of art sir!! Please share some pics of that beast in action when you get around to running it!
Dwayne
Dwayne
- XLR8
- Approved Member
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- Location: north/central Alabama
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- olfrjf
- Approved Member
- Posts: 56
- Joined: Tue Dec 08, 2015 4:18 am
- Location: France
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Re: A '91 Stealth RC10 project
XLR8 wrote: ↑Thu Sep 06, 2018 1:00 pm Thanks for the compliments guys. I’m not sure I would call it “awesome”; I’m hoping to save the awesome stuff for the replica. But thanks again for the kind words.![]()
No CNC here, just a drill press, coping saws, files, etc. -- just common hand tools and a lot of patience. The chassis plate alone took me about 6 hours to finish.
So, a little update: The top deck and trans brace are finished so it’s time to start the trial assembly process. So far, everything fits like it should (holes lineup, etc.). It definitely pays to invest the time needed to make an accurate CAD model before cutting material. At least it has for me (I hate tweaking parts to make them fit after they’re finished).
top deck 1.JPG
top deck 2.JPG
top deck 4.JPG
I’m struck at how rigid this assembly is. That very thin top deck, while off the car, is very flexible but once it’s screwed to the rest of the assembly, everything becomes amazingly stiff (maybe too stiff?). Remember the broken top deck on Masami’s car, was it an accident or was it deliberate? Did any of Masami’s teammates manage to break their cars?? Has anyone ever spoken to him about this??? Anyway, I think it’s an interesting possibility to consider.
I went ahead and cut the trans brace from the same 1/16” G10 material. Like the top deck plate, most of the forces applied to this part are coplanar so the actual thickness of the brace is somewhat irrelevant. The material cuts and shapes like butter with hand tools. I wish I could use if for shock towers but it’s just too flexible for that purpose.
top deck 10.JPG
I’ll need to make a couple 5 degree wedges for the front bulkhead to compensate for the difference in kick angle (25 vs. 30 degree). Think I can cut these from my other favorite building material; styrene.
top deck 8.JPG
I’ve mentioned before how much I dislike the color of the 3D printed parts so I will try painting them with Krylon’s “Ivory” paint (it seems to be close to the blonde natural nylon AE parts). Anyway, that’s the plan; I guess we’ll see how well that works out. It’s a runner so I’m not gonna be too fussy.
Next up are the shock towers and battery strap. Stay tuned.![]()
Hi Doug, have you the Drfat for the top deck?
i'm after this to done the job myself.
thanks
Olivier

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