MRC MT10 & Futaba FXT-10

[scottmac74]

I have the slipper nut tightened down to about 1/2 thread from bottoming the spring and it still slips, so I am pretty sure it needs a rulon disc. I will search for a new/nearly new one (since the discs I got with the parts trucks are all in the same condition), or I will see if I can adapt one from a modern vehicle.

[scottmac74]

I have had no luck finding a replacement Rulon disc for the MT-10M, so I picked up a slipper clutch kit for an Axial AX10, (since it appeared to be a good possible solution). 90% of the kit fits the MT-10, with just a little modification, it fits 99%. I first removed the outer roll pin from the transmission input shaft (because it won't fit into the Axial inner clutch hub, so I used the small pin provided with the Axial kit. It fits loose, but when everything is together, it won't go anywhere). The biggest problem is when I put the inner slipper hub on the input shaft, the hub would drop all the way down to the motor plate and the inner face of the inner hub (red arrow) would ride against the motor plate, creating friction when the outer hub was tightened in place. To stand the inner hub away from the motor plate, I cut 1mm x 1mm x 5mm strips of rubber (2 pcs.) and set them in the channels of the inner hub (green arrows). So far it works very well, I did a few practice laps on the driveway and with some adjustment's, it should be a viable solution.

[T-type86]

GREAT write up!! I managed to make the setup from the traxxas rustler vxl work.. Sorry no pics.

"I picked up all the parts that make up the traxxas vxl slipper system that apply to the rustler. To my disbelief all the parts fit very nicely to the stock MT10 input shaft. All that was needed was some bushing/filler material to make up for the end portion where the diamater of the shaft decreses a small bit.

Here are the part numbers for what I ordered:

5116: Ball bearings, blue rubber sealed (5x11x4mm) (2)
5552: Rebuild kit, slipper clutch (steel disc/ friction pads (3)/ spring/ pin/ 4.0 mm NL)
2554: Screws, 3x6mm cap-head machine (hex drive) (6)
5556: Slipper pressure plate & hub (aluminum alloy)
4686: Spur gear, 86-tooth (48-pitch) "

I also scanned and uploaded the manual for everyone's use.
http://www.megaupload.com/?d=ZSF81ZKG

Have fun - Joe

[scottmac74]

Hey Joe, sounds like another possible solution. If you can, post some pics of your conversion and of the area where you need to fill, (maybe someone on the board has an idea). The input shaft steps down from 5mm to 4mm.

-Scott

[T-type86]

Sorry fell off the face of the rc truck universe. Now that im settled in Ill get my hands on some pics for the slipper.

Joe

[lemosd]

I know this thread is ancient, and its normally frowned upon the revival of long dead topics. But, I own an MT-10S, bought it brand new way back. Currently blowing the dust off of it and restoring it to race worthy condition. I too was having constant issues with the diff slipping, very glad I found this thread that shows what associated parts can be used to beef up the diff assembly. But there was still the issue of what to do about my worn out diff rings. Solution found, in hand and installed brand new diff rings from a Kyosho TF013. They fit great! Posting this as future reference for anyone that may be bringing one of these old trucks back to life as I am.

[Excavator76]

Hey found this post when looking for a part online for a MRC Ironman that has been shelved for years. I decided to bring it back to life, so I put a brushless motor on it and it shreded the idler gear. I have been able to find a couple rollers online to fix it. But does anyone know of a metal gear set up to fix this problem with?