- Classic stealth graphite RC10 with the chassis sides trimmed.
- 380 brushless motor w/ Mamba ESC
- Small steering servo
- Spektrum micro receiver
- 2000mAH 2s battery w CF mount
- Trimmed or custom motor plate
- Drilled / trimmed bulkhead
- CF trans brace
- Nylon bellcranks
- Front shocks in the rear with a custom shorty shock tower
- Trimmed stock rear arms
- Wide front arms
- Servo tape instead of hard mounts
- Aluminum screws and nuts where possible
- Titanium hinge pins
How light could you get an RC10?
- bgruen
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How light could you get an RC10?
I spied a 380 sized brushless motor rated at 4400kV and it got me to thinking that the beginner Tamiya cars came with 380s... Then I stopped and realized that 4400kV is a fair amount of power and if the rest of the car was made as light as possible... Might be an interesting experiment. Any other ideas of how to "add lightness" to add to the list below?
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- yellowdatsun
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Re: How light could you get an RC10?
Personally, I find it harder to drive light buggies and trucks. I can drive a heavier (highly modified) Slash faster than my SC5M.
Then you have to deal with racing regulations and such. Sure it may be cool to have a super light weight car, but not being able to race it kinda ruins the idea. Shelf queen also ruins all that work because the shelf won't care how light it is.
But, I'd be curious to see about the 380 motor thing. I have 380 brushless motors in a few of my 1/16 and 1/14 cars. On 3s they are downright uncontrollable, meaning it may just work in something larger. But you'll need a fan for sure.
FWIW, in the opposite direction, the 1/16 Slash comes with a stupidly oversize 550 12T motor. The brushless 380 version still outperforms it.
Then you have to deal with racing regulations and such. Sure it may be cool to have a super light weight car, but not being able to race it kinda ruins the idea. Shelf queen also ruins all that work because the shelf won't care how light it is.
But, I'd be curious to see about the 380 motor thing. I have 380 brushless motors in a few of my 1/16 and 1/14 cars. On 3s they are downright uncontrollable, meaning it may just work in something larger. But you'll need a fan for sure.
FWIW, in the opposite direction, the 1/16 Slash comes with a stupidly oversize 550 12T motor. The brushless 380 version still outperforms it.
- yellowdatsun
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Re: How light could you get an RC10?
Just as an aside, the RC10 isn't much heavier than a B5M. I recently weighed many of my cars, and the RC10 was within a very close amount to a B5M. So all the work could be for naught, unless you just happen to want the lightest RC10 because it suits you fancy, which is fine.
Still, try the 380 motor thing, I'm curious. If you do lighten the RC10, just for play, the 380 brushless might just work. Especially if you aren't out to race it.
Still, try the 380 motor thing, I'm curious. If you do lighten the RC10, just for play, the 380 brushless might just work. Especially if you aren't out to race it.
- Coelacanth
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Re: How light could you get an RC10?
Many of the 540-sized brushless motors are actually 380-sized motors in oversized cans...for example, this Leopard Toro 12T motor I'm using in one of my cars. The ribbed can actually houses a 380 inside.
That motor has more power than I'll ever need for a 1/10-scale car with my driving abilities, and I already had to dial down the punch a lot.
That said, there's such a thing as too light, as well. As you decrease weight and increase power, your traction and driveability will suffer, unless you also implement some way to add a lot more downforce.
That motor has more power than I'll ever need for a 1/10-scale car with my driving abilities, and I already had to dial down the punch a lot.
That said, there's such a thing as too light, as well. As you decrease weight and increase power, your traction and driveability will suffer, unless you also implement some way to add a lot more downforce.
Completed projects: CYANide Onroad Optima | Zebra Gold Optima | Barney Optima | OptiMutt RWD Mid
Gallery - Coel's Stalls: Marui Galaxy & Shogun Resto-Mods | FrankenBuff AYK Buffalo | 1987 Buick GNX RC12L3
Gallery - Coel's Stalls: Marui Galaxy & Shogun Resto-Mods | FrankenBuff AYK Buffalo | 1987 Buick GNX RC12L3
- yellowdatsun
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Re: How light could you get an RC10?
That would explain how they can cut the ribs into the can without sacrificing a 540's inner workings, because it's not a 540 inside. I have one like that too, and never thought about it being a 380. Has plenty of power though.
Now someone needs to take an actual 380 and mount it into their car.
Now someone needs to take an actual 380 and mount it into their car.
- GoMachV
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Re: How light could you get an RC10?
The thought of dual brushless 380's in my Dictator has crossed my mind! 

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- JK Racing
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Re: How light could you get an RC10?
4400 kv 380 motor in a 'stock' JRX2 - plenty of power without needing to lose weight. I still have the motor, actually had it in an LXT for a while. Now, I am planning on what to use it in next 
[youtube]a34UYgJ3Omw[/youtube]

[youtube]a34UYgJ3Omw[/youtube]
--Joey --
Vintage A&L and Factory Works
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JKRacingRC.com
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Re: How light could you get an RC10?
I have been checking out that motor on eBay. I have seen a few bad reviews. How has it worked for you? I am building a mid motor rc10 with a stealth GT trans and have considered that motor/esc combo.Coelacanth wrote:Many of the 540-sized brushless motors are actually 380-sized motors in oversized cans...for example, this Leopard Toro 12T motor I'm using in one of my cars. The ribbed can actually houses a 380 inside.
That motor has more power than I'll ever need for a 1/10-scale car with my driving abilities, and I already had to dial down the punch a lot.
That said, there's such a thing as too light, as well. As you decrease weight and increase power, your traction and driveability will suffer, unless you also implement some way to add a lot more downforce.
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