Delta Slotted Screws - What's their story?

[jwscab]

I've found that Torx work well for small fasteners, say below 5/16", but at 5/16" and larger, you can really have issues with stuck fasteners. front accessory drives for GM cars, and ESPECIALLY later model Jeep bellhousing and trans bolts. You gotta give them a good whack with a punch or brass drift or you are snapping those suckers(the tools, not the screws). Even worse is some of the jeep ones are inverted torx. Let's just say there are a few of those fasteners in a low earth orbit from frustration.

[kaiser]

thats why anything bigger should have a hex head and then wrenches/sockets are used. or triple squares.

inverted torx are silly, we (vw) have a couple of those but they are intended to be "anti tamper sheer bolts", you are supposed to snap the head off after installation and then break in a crash.

[Coelacanth]

Are you talking about screws like this? I know someone who bought a car with these screws and is not able removing the motor because of the missing tool. We always wondered what sort of screws this is.

Yep, those are Robertson screw-heads. The problem is that most Robertson screws are used for sheetmetal or woodworking/home renovation, you rarely find any machined for small things with fine threads. It's too bad really, because they work so well and with the correct-sized driver tip, they'll never slip or strip. You can put a screw onto your cordless drill & Robertson bit, and it'll hold it there even at near-horizontal, without falling out. That allows you to use both hands on your drill or tool, not have to hold the screw in place with one hand like most of the other kinds.

How many times have you guys tried positioning a particular screw with your driver, and just before you're ready to twist, the screw slips to one side and falls off your driver tip before you can get it threaded in a tight location? If you're using steel screws & magnetic-tipped driver, that helps, but doesn't do much good with non-magnetic stainless steel screws...

[drbelleville]

Well I am glad the thread helped me, and those of you that gained some insight as well.

Now, my question as far as these being used, when did Delta Stop using these? I know they were not on the Electric cars (Villian & Phaser) nor were they used on the Fireball.

Thanks again,
-Maurice

[RichieRich]

Here's one: You ever have your kid ask you to fix a McDonald's happy meal toy? They use some crazy triangle shaped screws heads that make them near impossible to fix or change batteries. Jerks.

[losiXXXman]

Heard of a Reed and Prince?

[a01butal]

Well I am glad the thread helped me, and those of you that gained some insight as well.

Now, my question as far as these being used, when did Delta Stop using these? I know they were not on the Electric cars (Villian & Phaser) nor were they used on the Fireball.

Thanks again,
-Maurice

They came in a 1/12 Delta IFS kit that I had and used, as far as the 1/8 cars my CK800SJ has them all over the bottom but my P2 and P4 doesn't have any but don't know if that was because the original builder just didn't want to use them or not.

[DerbyDan]

Great thread!

My Corally TC uses Torx - best feature of the car!

[mk4]

i only see 8-32 bolt with this kind of head on my delta (never other size)

i have another kind of screw driver provide by delta :


i never be able to find these kind of bolt , all of mine are used . really exotic bolt , i love them
They seem to be used on Super J first , for fitting rear bearing holder , front cross bar and brake caliper.
they also are used on Eagle and super Eagle ( cf part list)


if someone know were to buy , address is welcome

[no-high-torque]

I know this is an old thread but I have to chime in on these high-torque fasteners. DON'T USE THEM FOR ANYTHING AT ALL. I was a jet engine mechanic in the US Navy and those were used on the S3-A Viking Anti-Submarine Patrol Aircraft. You'd think that the easiest thing to do would be to take off a panel. Not with the suckers holding it on. The way they're designed, the most important part of the screw is the weakest - the outside ends. They are the thinnest there where all the work is to be done. One slip of that bit pictured, and out with the hand drill and easy-outs. Could take a couple days to take off a simple panel. No electric tools around a plane and fuel so 1 hour per screw to drill out.

There was a Gerri-Rigged device we used that required you to AT LEAST GET ONE SCREW OUT. Then the tool slipped under the washer of a new fastener as a pivot point, a sliding 3" 3/8 extension, and a handle for a second person to push on while the other turned the screw. And even with that tool, you always had to drill out screws. Talk about how many guys does it take to unscrew a screw, TWO if it's a high torque fastener. The latest invention is Mor-Torque, looks troublesome to me. We replaced the hi-torque (which we called torque tips) with Torx (a nice fastener - if it does strip, you just use the next size up to remove it), or Torq-Set, a fancy version of a Phillips with an offset at the center. Imagine the dread we felt when having to remove a panel with 200 high-torque fasteners on it to get to the inflight refueling probe.

Matt