Vintage Graphite Edition - Well, pile of parts....

[MrBig]

This is my vintage RC10 which I believe is a Graphite edition (going from the chassis, no idea if there is any way to confirm?), which is in a very bad way. I bought this used from a buddy of mine in the mid-late 90's as a basher. One night the battery pack escaped and shorted itself across the heatsink on my Tekin 410! It fried all the electrics so I sold it another pal and bought a Schumacher Bosscat. I happened to be about with my friend earlier in the year and he told me he still had it if I wanted it back? I jumped at the chance, but sadly what I've ended up with is a box full of very dirty and abused parts



I'm just trying to decide what to do with it, I think its too far gone to ever be a shelf queen, so I might keep the Re-Re for display and get this one up and running. Just need to decide whether to try and 're-white' the plastics, replace them completely or die them black?

Then there's still the matter of the wheels being wrong, the body and body mounts missing and all of the screws being ruined.....

Is a graphite edition rare? Should it have white plastics anyway or should they be black like a worlds?

Thanks,
Craig.

[JK Racing]

Easily salvaged to build up a good runner. Scrub the parts, pick up re-re parts as needed to replace worn or missing items. Wheels looks like JC Racing, while not period correct, they do make RC10 specific wheels, in 2.2 so you can run modern tires. Hoping the correct rear shocks are in there, the yellow plastic ones look like Tamiya units.

[MrBig]

Thanks for the reply! Sadly the rear shocks are missing. No idea what happened to them. Another item for the shopping list.

Any idea if there is a compete screw set available? The only ones I seem to be able to find in the UK are anodised blue.

So the shopping list now is:

Front carbon shock tower
Correct disc wheels
Tyres
Rear shocks
Front bumper

If anyone can help me to source these bits I would be most grateful.

I'm assuming the body would be the same as the re-re Classic?!?

[JK Racing]

For the body, there are a few choices. AE has 3 availble: Protech I (re-re classic), Viper & Turbo Mirage (re-re worlds).

Wheels should be plentiful due to the re-re worlds. Rear shocks are a mix of truck rear bodies and buggy shafts (if you want modern shocks). 1.32 rear body, 1.02 rear shaft. Carbon towers should be easy to source (Fiber-Lyte), or re-re worlds. Front bumper can be made from some Kydex or there are some availble on Shapeways.

Should be plenty of help here on the board, quite a few guys from your side of the pond that can point you better than I. But I think CML distributing (if I got that right) will be your source.

[ChisaiKuso]

Sadly the rear shocks are missing. No idea what happened to them. Another item for the shopping list.

I say rock it with those Tamiya shocks. Dare to be different!

[tuna.Rc]

I love builds like this. Kinda makes me want to save my pile of junk cars & parts I'm getting rid of!

Can you get pictures of the parts you will be using , I have some parts to donate , if you can pm your address.

[MrBig]

Well I scrubbed these bad boys till I was sweating, then left them in bleach overnight.

They have come out a pretty good colour but I can't get some of the staining off, especially where the pivot pins go through the nylon. If anyone has any tips I'd love to hear them?

In the meantime I think I've decided to try and put this back together using as many original parts as possible, but in the knowledge that it will be more biased towards a runner than a shelf queen as I just can't see me getting these plastics mint again.

Tuna, once I have cleaned everything up I will post some pics up of all the parts. Anything in particular you want to see? As for parts, that would be awesome but I'm in the UK so I'll pm you to talk Turkey about shipping fees etc.

[PlastiZapCA+]

I use Fast Orange mechanics hand cleaner and a toothbrush. Just about any mechanics hand cleaner will work. You can use pipe cleaners or Q-tips covered in hand cleaner to push through the pin holes too. You really need to soak the parts in hydrogen peroxide as well. The hydrogen peroxide really helps in loosening up the gunk as well as bringing out the white. On really bad parts I'll leave them soaking for up to a week. After the cleaning process I wax all my parts to keep them protected.

[RC10th]

For small areas a light scrape with an xacto blade does the trick to remove surface oxidation of the nylon.

[jwscab]

it it's not a rust stain, simple green will also work to break that stuff up, and yes, pipe cleaners and a scrape or two with an xacto will help.

if those axles are steel, push them out of the hubs before soaking. then use something like scotchbrite or kitchen scrubby pad to polish up, spin them in a hand drill or drill press.