aip47-2008 wrote:limestang wrote:These look easy to fab on a lathe. Given all of the other great custom fab work, this should be a snap:)
- Limestang
But is the time spent on the lathe worth the return. Wheel adapters could be made as well, but again. Is the time spent worth it
NIX91 Questions and Answers
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- limestang
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Re: NIX91 Questions and Answers
I don't know about the wheel adapters, but I made these wing mounts for my JJH replica because the Yokomo's were very hard to find. I think it took about 30 minutes on my mini lathe. Probably the determining factor would be how original you want it to be.
- jwscab
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Re: NIX91 Questions and Answers
in all honesty, the older style ones are tougher to make because they are smaller, hard to hold to make and make identical. the larger gold ones shown there are basically three processes. first process turn to proper OD's then center drill and tap. second process to cross drill. third process to part off, rechuck and turn features on back side. then get anodized. Could knock a couple of them out in an hour I suppose minus anodizing. I guess it depends on how much you charge yourself.
I would venture a guess and say they are all the same parts. While they all look slightly different, remember this stuff is usually turned in batches, different production styles, etc. So while they are different, the differences are only in how a particular machine or machinist happen to read the prints. I'd say the only true critical parameter would be the distance from the top to the wire mounting hole, since the screw fixes everything at once and needs the proper squish on that o-ring. things like the different narrow OD and chamfers would have larger tolerances.
I would venture a guess and say they are all the same parts. While they all look slightly different, remember this stuff is usually turned in batches, different production styles, etc. So while they are different, the differences are only in how a particular machine or machinist happen to read the prints. I'd say the only true critical parameter would be the distance from the top to the wire mounting hole, since the screw fixes everything at once and needs the proper squish on that o-ring. things like the different narrow OD and chamfers would have larger tolerances.
- limestang
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Re: NIX91 Questions and Answers
Ok, I had a little free time this afternoon, so fabbed up one of the wing mounts. The most timely part was calculating the dimensions from the photo's. I only had 0.625" aluminum stock, which required more cutting then 0.5 would. I messed up on the first attempt, so only have one to show. Here are some photos of the fab process:
- Limestang
- Limestang
jwscab wrote:in all honesty, the older style ones are tougher to make because they are smaller, hard to hold to make and make identical. the larger gold ones shown there are basically three processes. first process turn to proper OD's then center drill and tap. second process to cross drill. third process to part off, rechuck and turn features on back side. then get anodized. Could knock a couple of them out in an hour I suppose minus anodizing. I guess it depends on how much you charge yourself.
I would venture a guess and say they are all the same parts. While they all look slightly different, remember this stuff is usually turned in batches, different production styles, etc. So while they are different, the differences are only in how a particular machine or machinist happen to read the prints. I'd say the only true critical parameter would be the distance from the top to the wire mounting hole, since the screw fixes everything at once and needs the proper squish on that o-ring. things like the different narrow OD and chamfers would have larger tolerances.
- limestang
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Re: NIX91 Questions and Answers
Here's the completed pair. If anyone has the actuals dimensions, please post them. I wasn't sure if the part would be metric. My Calculations came up with the following:
Top Dia: 0.44"
Lower Dia: 0.265"
Total Length: 0.44"
Thickness of top: 0.085"
AE O-Ring Cutout: 0.250 x 0.040"
Wing Wire hole distance from bottom: 0.150"
Screw Thread: 6-32
For this design to work, the length of the screw has to be just enough to lock the wing wire in place and yet not over compress the o-ring. An alternate solution is to use a short screw along with a set screw from the bottom. I don't have allot of experience running this type of setup.
- Limestang
Top Dia: 0.44"
Lower Dia: 0.265"
Total Length: 0.44"
Thickness of top: 0.085"
AE O-Ring Cutout: 0.250 x 0.040"
Wing Wire hole distance from bottom: 0.150"
Screw Thread: 6-32
For this design to work, the length of the screw has to be just enough to lock the wing wire in place and yet not over compress the o-ring. An alternate solution is to use a short screw along with a set screw from the bottom. I don't have allot of experience running this type of setup.
- Limestang
- Minisforever
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Re: NIX91 Questions and Answers
Looks great limestang. Your right on with the metric and set screw from bottom.
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Re: NIX91 Questions and Answers
Hi there
I have a few of these and just noticed 2 different types but the ones that look like yours the most measure out at the following
top dia 10mm
lower dia 6mm
total lenght 10.50mm
thickness of top 2mm
oring cutout 6mm x 1mm
wire hole distance from bottom to centre 4mm
and yes all threaded holes are 3mm
hope this helps
peter
I have a few of these and just noticed 2 different types but the ones that look like yours the most measure out at the following
top dia 10mm
lower dia 6mm
total lenght 10.50mm
thickness of top 2mm
oring cutout 6mm x 1mm
wire hole distance from bottom to centre 4mm
and yes all threaded holes are 3mm
hope this helps
peter
limestang wrote:Here's the completed pair. If anyone has the actuals dimensions, please post them. I wasn't sure if the part would be metric. My Calculations came up with the following:
Top Dia: 0.44"
Lower Dia: 0.265"
Total Length: 0.44"
Thickness of top: 0.085"
AE O-Ring Cutout: 0.250 x 0.040"
Wing Wire hole distance from bottom: 0.150"
Screw Thread: 6-32
For this design to work, the length of the screw has to be just enough to lock the wing wire in place and yet not over compress the o-ring. An alternate solution is to use a short screw along with a set screw from the bottom. I don't have allot of experience running this type of setup.
- Limestang
- slotcarrod
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Re: NIX91 Questions and Answers
The rear Yokomo wheels are bitch to find, and not willing to pay $100 USD for a pair!
Niki, what do you think a Shapeways set would end up costing? Is this something you would consider?
![Rolling Eyes :roll:](./images/smilies/icon_rolleyes.gif)
Niki, what do you think a Shapeways set would end up costing? Is this something you would consider?
Rod Littau
Slotcarrod's Rumpus Room: http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=77&t=16113
25 Years of the RC10: http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=13059
Slotcarrod's Rumpus Room: http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=77&t=16113
25 Years of the RC10: http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=13059
- askbob
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Re: NIX91 Questions and Answers
slotcarrod wrote:The rear Yokomo wheels are bitch to find, and not willing to pay $100 USD for a pair!![]()
Niki, what do you think a Shapeways set would end up costing? Is this something you would consider?
You mean the 'new' ebayer selling them for $100?
![Wink :wink:](./images/smilies/icon_wink.gif)
- slotcarrod
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Re: NIX91 Questions and Answers
You think it's a scam?askbob wrote:slotcarrod wrote:The rear Yokomo wheels are bitch to find, and not willing to pay $100 USD for a pair!![]()
Niki, what do you think a Shapeways set would end up costing? Is this something you would consider?
You mean the 'new' ebayer selling them for $100?
![Confused :?](./images/smilies/icon_confused.gif)
Rod Littau
Slotcarrod's Rumpus Room: http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=77&t=16113
25 Years of the RC10: http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=13059
Slotcarrod's Rumpus Room: http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=77&t=16113
25 Years of the RC10: http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=13059
- Niki
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Re: NIX91 Questions and Answers
Around $40 for a pair. Mods can be done also. These are ZC-835 versions.slotcarrod wrote:Niki, what do you think a Shapeways set would end up costing? Is this something you would consider?
If ZC-825's are wanted I need someone to take dims for me.
-Niki-
NIXconcepts -Shapeways Shop- -I.materialise Shop-
--- Quadra-symmetric RC10 --- RC10 '91 Worlds Conversion --- Start of NIX91 story...
--- Quadra-symmetric RC10 --- RC10 '91 Worlds Conversion --- Start of NIX91 story...
- romulus22
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Re: NIX91 Questions and Answers
Just went through my extras and I'm two hinge pins shy. Any update on titanium hinge pins for this car? What about titanium ball studs? Who's the best supplier for those. I'm clueless when it comes to buying modern parts.gomachv wrote:I just got a text message from Kelly, he wants me to test fit the stealth buckles and pins to make sure they are 100%. He said actual part numbers will then be assigned so no more trying to explain what you are looking for. I'll update soon
- GoMachV
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Re: NIX91 Questions and Answers
He has all the info for turnbuckles and pins now and quantities for ball studs in titanium also. Call barb or email
he is planning on building one of these as well!
he is planning on building one of these as well!
It's time to stand up to the bully. Support the companies that support the industry, not the ones that tear it down. Say no to Traxxas
Factory Works website
Factory Works website
Re: NIX91 Questions and Answers
Niki wrote:Around $40 for a pair. Mods can be done also. These are ZC-835 versions.slotcarrod wrote:Niki, what do you think a Shapeways set would end up costing? Is this something you would consider?
If ZC-825's are wanted I need someone to take dims for me.
-Niki-
$40 sounds like a good price,
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