Ah very cool. So its the last version of the yz models and a transition to mx4. Hoping to find a cheap mr4bx. As its the transition to bmax... rccar evolution is cool.
As Peter says - this looks like a 94' YZ10 thats had the 97 model shock absorber top deck fitted... I can't see if the shock towers are made of carbon or not, but they look like regular Pavidis items - the 97' run out model YZ-10 has longer towers I believe?
If this was an original Pavidis car it would have had a different (more 'holey') chassis & the TCS layshaft (slipper & one way) - that car also came with teflon coated AE shocks - the shock on this car look like Traxxas?
Yes, the arms, chassis, and lack of TCS are dead ringers this is a vanilla YZ10 94 with the later towers from the 95, and 97 top deck fitted I'm afraid.
Allright, I think its a little more figured out now. Appears to be a 94 chassis, with 93 rear tower in carbon fiber, and a 95 WCS front tower in carbon fiber,, with the 97 top deck. Shocks are associated grey(teflon?). One aluminum stand off seems out of place, but will check today if theres another hole for it.
For the price I paid, it may as well be another plainvanilla 870c! Im stoked to have a later model FINALLY. Was really hoping it was a 97 model. In browsing pictures, its very cool to see the changes made between models, and the transformation to MX4. I think the 97 is alot like a a kyosho zx-S in that it represents the last version of old, mixed with hints of new, just before the radical new models(mx4- zx5 respectively) were introduced. I may indeed try to mill this into a 97 anyway.
Sssoooo,,, anybody got some 97 towers and camber supports I can copy?
Was really hoping it was a Pavidis! However, not disappointed at all that its not.
How do you guys get the aluminum posts un stuck from the screws? Looks like this cars hardware is corroded together,, or possibly super glued? The screws are not budging from the aluminum threaded posts.
if it's stuck really hard, you can hold the end on a firm benchtop and tap down on a screwdriver in the screw on the other end to help loosen. otherwise, you might be able to heat up the standoff with a soldering iron if it's been loc-tited. stuck hardware is a nightmare sometimes.
Yeah if its really bad some non marking grips will save your post from being carved up by regular pliers, last gasp, drill out the countersunk screw head, and then rag out the remaining thread with pliers, I've done that a few times and as long as your careful, it works a treat!
All taken apart to major sub assemblies. By the time this is posted, I have it all washed, and sprayed with silicone. Will re assemble tomorrow. I havent sourced any new parts for it. As far as I can tell, they are more rare than mx4/mr4 parts,, and so,, this model will be as is(built though) for a while.
The way I got the posts un stuck is this: I grabbed them with pliers padded with a rag, then turned the chassis around the post, thus loosening the screw. This managed to break the screws loose, then they came out with a screw driver easy. In the rebuild, I found 2 bent turn buckles, leaky shocks, gritty diffs, and a shredded rear belt. Thats it. The rest of the car although scratched, is tight, and ready for more action. I call this one a runner! Will post pics later.
Some things I noticed: Its got some kind of "works?" steering set up. Same cranks as older models, but now with a carbon plate instead of a bent wire, and then another carbon plate on top for stiffness. The shock thing on top makes a great belt tension adjustment. Front and rear towers are definite upgrades from the Yokomo parts bin. The diffs came back really smooth. Shocks just need a new seal on top, and are pretty much perfect. Some sticker goo along with ca im sure on the wheels. That crud aint coming off without some serious scraping. Oh well,, New sticker dots would fix that pretty well.
Bottom is in good shape. I will fab up some bumpers eventually. Hoping the works 93 lipo trays will fit this chassis as well. If so, then thats 1 more thing already done.
I have been working on another project in my spare time, but have a question. I am building up a buggy with Klein rear arms to get some more extension. In my research, I was told to use some B44 rear CVD's. I think that i am using a RC10T...
Last post
What size bearings on the custom wotks hub? I have a few sets coming to use with the b44 cvd.
Just to confirm its 3/16 x 3/8 × 4 bearing size
thanks
Yes, this is the correct size of bearings for CVDs with 3/16 axles.
I really like the look of the 3 piece wheels Associated used. I'm even more impressed with the functionality. I never did like the idea of gluing tires onto rims.
If I'm correct, there are 7 different 3 piece wheels that were used. (original buggy,...
Last post
Hey yea i went and looked, my rear is all original :lol: but it is hard to find good rears today
I'm looking for some viable options for wheels to go on an RC10DS. What setups are you guys using and what adapters/parts are you running to make this all work right? Seems like the stock BBS wheels and speed hawg tires are hard to come by. Thanks...
Last post
Anyone tried using this conversion for the front?
Yes, I just did. I'm using that kit with the HPI Vintage series wheels and tires. I have the 0mm offset in the front and 6mm in the rear.
It took some custom fitting to use the stock front C-hub....
Why were there several options for the wheelbase on the 10T yet there is little mention of using it for tuning? For example the noseplate has 2 sets of holes about 3/8 of inch shorter or longer. My B chassis has two sets of holes for the rear a-arm...
Last post
Yup, just new holes to make the mid motor configuration work- we used to do the same thing, but with a graphite car so you didn't have to cut the tub.
I have been looking into available options for CVA's for my RC10T. I would like to run newer wheels on this one. If anyone has any opinions or suggestions, I would be interested in hearing them, thanks.
Last post
it looks like bones might still be available, if so, you can build your own:
Anybody have a B4 or B4.1 and a Original RC10 Protech body laying around, Id like some opinions if it could be made to fit the B4 cars. Kinda like a new is old project lol
Thanks
Last post
I was surprised to see how well this body fit. With some trimming it would work very well.
I've got a T3 that needs a body. I know I can still get t3 bodies but no decals to go with it. Anyone know if the t4 bodies will fit? I've done some searching but apparently the T3 is the truck that time forgot.
Last post
Thanks for the info, that decal sheet is a great option.