=tuber 10=

General discussion, builds/restorations, etc...

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badhoopty
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Re: =tuber 10=

Post by badhoopty »

as you can see, the weld was just ground down toooooo much. just one of those little things you dont notice that bites you in the hiney... i REALLY wish i had put this car together and ran it before i powdered it... i just about shat myself when i noticed it, at first i thought the arm was bent back. :shock:

i was running it up and down the hall at work and didnt get off of it in time, hit the wall going sideways in a skid.

Image

i still have no doubt the chassis will be virtually bombproof once this little issue is fixed. however you wont see me running it on the carpet at work anymore. 8)

i already got some harris rod and flux ordered, i'm gonna strip all the shock hoops down and rebraze them using mapp gas. maybe i'll just cut them out and braze in new, thicker plates. i've never brazed but i'm pretty confident i can tackle this, always wanted to try it anyway.

so, the tuber10 is now again a project... hehe.

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templeofspeed
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Re: =tuber 10=

Post by templeofspeed »

The same techinques apply to brazing and soldering... you'll do fine once you strip off the powdercoat... :wink: Sorry you had to find out. :(

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Re: =tuber 10=

Post by badhoopty »

i can solder like a mofo.

i was bummed at first, but its no biggie. it gives me the opportunity to plus it up a little bit more anyway.

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mikedealer
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Re: =tuber 10=

Post by mikedealer »

brazing is easy, with a oxy/acetalene torch.. you can heat up a joint in under 5 seconds.. you touch the metal with the braze/flame and it flows nicely wherever the flux is touching.. make sure to tilt the chassis in which direction you want the flux to flow.. i would probably hold that upside down and a angle.

The map torch is tough because first it takes like 20-30 seconds to get the metal hot enough to braze.. and by the time that happens the flux usually blackens pretty badly and then the silv doesnt flow onto the burnt flux.. that kit for $50 is pretty nice.. a bottle of mapp is like 7 bucks and a cheapo tip is $15.. i say spend the extra 27 and go for the gusto kit hehe.

i like to use the 45 silv cause its alot stronger they say, and i have NO problems with it flowing.. i think it flows too much.. .

badhoopty
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Re: =tuber 10=

Post by badhoopty »

ok you talked me into the kit. do you use the harris flux as well miked?

i got the 45 and the stay-silv flux coming. i just got one ounce of rod for now, the stuff is pricey and i'm still broke...

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mikedealer
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Re: =tuber 10=

Post by mikedealer »

white flux yes

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mrlexan
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Re: =tuber 10=

Post by mrlexan »

Hoop, the Tamiya driver figure is on it's way..... I had one here.
I am not here cause I am playing photographer and on my mountain bike.
www.gojammedia.com

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MelvinsArmy
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Re: =tuber 10=

Post by MelvinsArmy »

Wow! I've been slacking off on keeping up with the posts here, Hoopty that thing is INSANE!

In my best Comic Book Guy voice: "Best. RC10. EVER!"

You want an aluminum wing? You can HAVE the aluminum wing I used to run on my 6010, it's got the aerofoil style side plates, might look killer on that buggy. lmk, I'd be more than happy to donate a piece to that work of art.

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Re: =tuber 10=

Post by badhoopty »

MelvinsArmy wrote:Wow! I've been slacking off on keeping up with the posts here, Hoopty that thing is INSANE!

In my best Comic Book Guy voice: "Best. RC10. EVER!"

You want an aluminum wing? You can HAVE the aluminum wing I used to run on my 6010, it's got the aerofoil style side plates, might look killer on that buggy. lmk, I'd be more than happy to donate a piece to that work of art.
thx melvins. it was pretty darn fun the whole 5 minutes i got to run it. ;)

speaking of wings... i think i can make you a pretty satisfactory trade... got a pic of that wing?

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MelvinsArmy
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Re: =tuber 10=

Post by MelvinsArmy »

Are you thinking what I hope you're thinking??? :shock:

Here's a pic of the wing I'm talking about, not a scratch on it:

Image

badhoopty
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Re: =tuber 10=

Post by badhoopty »

allllrighty.....

its back, its bad, but it aint near as pretty as it once was...

i'm going to run the heck out of it awhile before i tear it down again for powdercoating, at that time i'll braze on some shock spacers to the hoops to further reinforce that area where the plate meets the rod. i might also rip off mikes rear shock mounts.

Image

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Daddeo
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Re: =tuber 10=

Post by Daddeo »

Sweet looking tuber you got there Hoopty! Has a "Outlaw" look to it :D.

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mikedealer
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Re: =tuber 10=

Post by mikedealer »

i used a clevis pin from home depot

http://www.mcmaster.com/param/images/Pins/98330a245callout.gif

they sell them at like the "better stocked" home depot hardware sections.. i cut it in half, they sell a bunch of sizes.


the one problem i had with my shock mounts is that i made them too "close" to the chassis... they fit well when i test fit everything... but after powdercoating the angle was a bit too extreme for the screw.. i used trinity servo mounts to compensate... not what i wanted but there is adjustability in the shock mount setup i got now.. actually worked out ok.

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