My OIN Worlds whatever you want to call it racer.
- RC10th
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Re: My OIN Worlds whatever you want to call it racer.
Thanks. Yes you get full left and right travel, untill the steering block hits on the castor block and can't go any further.
I was old school - when old school wasn't cool !
- RC10th
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Re: My OIN Worlds whatever you want to call it racer.
Ok, I'm happy enough with the results to post this.
I have found a CVA combo that works excellent with stock rear arms and B4 rear hubs that anyone can put together. I tried the B44 CVA thing and they were still too long. In order to create the CVA you'll need the following parts;
Associated,
9755 Rear CVA Axle
7996 CVA Pin Retainer
Yokomo,
B2-010RB Bmax2 rear bones (x2)
BM-010TPC Universal Joint (x2)
Misc,
5/64 or metric wheel pin equivalent
3mm set screw (optional)
First take your wheel pin and make sure it fits well in the Yokomo CVA coupling, then at least you know it's the right size (the Yokomo ones supplied are too short). Next take the Associated CVA axles and drill out the standard holes with a 5/64 drill bit. De-bur and test with your wheel pin to make sure it slides freely through both holes and that it's not too long or binds. If it's too long grind it down to length.
Next just assemble it as you would a normal CVA using the Associated pin retaining rings instead, the Yokomo ones are too small although they will still work. The pressed in drive pins in the Yokomo bones are ever so slightly too big, so you can do one of two things. You can carefully file out the outdrives (best method) or you can gently grind the pins. Just make sure the bones slide freely in the outdrives at different angles so they don't bind.
Install into the car with all of the spacers on the outside and your done.
I have found a CVA combo that works excellent with stock rear arms and B4 rear hubs that anyone can put together. I tried the B44 CVA thing and they were still too long. In order to create the CVA you'll need the following parts;
Associated,
9755 Rear CVA Axle
7996 CVA Pin Retainer
Yokomo,
B2-010RB Bmax2 rear bones (x2)
BM-010TPC Universal Joint (x2)
Misc,
5/64 or metric wheel pin equivalent
3mm set screw (optional)
First take your wheel pin and make sure it fits well in the Yokomo CVA coupling, then at least you know it's the right size (the Yokomo ones supplied are too short). Next take the Associated CVA axles and drill out the standard holes with a 5/64 drill bit. De-bur and test with your wheel pin to make sure it slides freely through both holes and that it's not too long or binds. If it's too long grind it down to length.
Next just assemble it as you would a normal CVA using the Associated pin retaining rings instead, the Yokomo ones are too small although they will still work. The pressed in drive pins in the Yokomo bones are ever so slightly too big, so you can do one of two things. You can carefully file out the outdrives (best method) or you can gently grind the pins. Just make sure the bones slide freely in the outdrives at different angles so they don't bind.
Install into the car with all of the spacers on the outside and your done.
I was old school - when old school wasn't cool !
- RC10th
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Re: My OIN Worlds whatever you want to call it racer.
So here is full droop and compression. As you can see there is plenty of room left for the bones if you wanted to run more droop. Don't mind my chewed out second hand outdrives, the replacements are on back order and will be replaced.
I think there is also just enough on the compression side. I think if you skimmed 0.5mm or more, depending on how much material you could take off the inner axle race, you could possibly gain a little more up travel. It just depends if the bone will interfere with the outdrive before the bone bottoms out in the cup.
I should mention that I had to run up-travel limiters as the big bore shocks have too much travel.
I think there is also just enough on the compression side. I think if you skimmed 0.5mm or more, depending on how much material you could take off the inner axle race, you could possibly gain a little more up travel. It just depends if the bone will interfere with the outdrive before the bone bottoms out in the cup.
I should mention that I had to run up-travel limiters as the big bore shocks have too much travel.
I was old school - when old school wasn't cool !
- mtbkym01
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Re: My OIN Worlds whatever you want to call it racer.
Awesome work mate, cant wait to see it in the flesh 

- RC10th
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Re: My OIN Worlds whatever you want to call it racer.
Nearly finished, just need to paint the body now. Worlds chassis are back in stock so hopefully I'll see it in the next two weeks then I can call it done.
I was old school - when old school wasn't cool !
- Blacktiger355
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- Niki
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Re: My OIN Worlds whatever you want to call it racer.
Nice research work done for this buggy and well documented also. One of my favourite builds for sure.
-N-
-N-
NIXconcepts --- Imaterialise Shop --- Printables.com/@NIXconcepts --- Quadra-symmetric RC10 --- RC10 '91 Worlds Conversion --- Start of NIX91 story...
- RC10th
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Re: My OIN Worlds whatever you want to call it racer.
Small update, worlds chassis and nose plate came about two weeks ago but I finally got around to updating this. The body should be done soon and this car should be ready to hit the track.
I was old school - when old school wasn't cool !
- mtbkym01
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Re: My OIN Worlds whatever you want to call it racer.
Yes RJ, will it "debut" this weekend, I'll be down for a look, maybe with my own Worlds car. depends on the weather I guess, bit of precipitation forecast for this week/end1300GT wrote:Looks great RJ. But will it hit the track?
- mtbkym01
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Re: My OIN Worlds whatever you want to call it racer.
Hey a quick question, is that a chassis skin/protector on the original chassis, and have you put one on the new chassis?
- RC10th
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Re: My OIN Worlds whatever you want to call it racer.
1300GT wrote:Looks great RJ. But will it hit the track?
This is where I'm torn

Yeah, that is a chassis protector on the old chassis, I peeled it off and stuck it to the new worlds chassis. I used some lower profile screws so it sits flatter. I didn't feel like re-countersinking the chassis, so the screws were the next best thing.mtbkym01 wrote:Hey a quick question, is that a chassis skin/protector on the original chassis, and have you put one on the new chassis?
On a side note I'm a bit unhappy about this weekend as I'm scheduled to work Sat and the race is Sat, even though I asked for the season off. I have to plead for Sat off tomorrow as missing this round would take me out of the championship run. Rain wouldn't be a bad thing if I can't get the day off.
I was old school - when old school wasn't cool !
- Niki
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Re: My OIN Worlds whatever you want to call it racer.
I'm building my rere-Worlds now with same steering setup. Seems to work nicely.


NIXconcepts --- Imaterialise Shop --- Printables.com/@NIXconcepts --- Quadra-symmetric RC10 --- RC10 '91 Worlds Conversion --- Start of NIX91 story...
Re: My OIN Worlds whatever you want to call it racer.
Sweet build! You mind telling what gear cover you used? I am going with the VTS slipper as well on a build and I like that clear cover.
- RC10th
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Re: My OIN Worlds whatever you want to call it racer.
The clear cover is just a standard B4/T4 cover. You will need to drill a new hole in the motor plate for the bottom screw, or you can just use the top hole but it's not as secure.
I was old school - when old school wasn't cool !
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