RC10 Newbitz build thread

[clm]

You might try picking up a rear bulkhead from the rc10 re release, the opening is supposed to be enlarged as well as the bottom removed for lipo fitment. Then take a normal front battery cup and remove the front, the servo will prevent the lipo from moving forward.

Chris.

[surgetek]

I didn't think of taking the front of the battery box off. I carved out the rear bulkhead to take my battery.

I'm going to take some pictures tonight.

[surgetek]

I'll try to get better pics when I have a chance.

Right now I need to decide on a power system. I'm thinking this from Tower:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000407926&I=LXCATW&P=K

I was looking at the Hobbywing equivalent also. I'm thinking of a Solar 770 servo for now. My radio is going to be the Spektrum compatible Orange RX.

I carved out the back of the battery cup and my lipos fit great. I may, but I'm not sure yet, carve out the bottom of it too and just have the side walls of it to prevent side to side movement. Right now the battery has a little tilt upwards to it.

I have some tires and wheels I am going to try. They are, I believe, Tamiya Super Grippers. I like the rims but will need to be painted because right now they are maroon.

I changed all the bushings in the Stealth to bearings, rebuilt the diff, and swapped out the shocks.

[surgetek]

[spydur23]

Man you didn't have to cut the white cup! just take the screws out, move it forward and use servo tape

[surgetek]

Didn't sit right.

I have 3 more if it makes people riot.

Right now it has a little upward tilt that puts a little stress on the rear cup. The servo tape would make it sit a little higher and stress it more.

[clm]

Problem is if you cut the bottom the sides are just going to twist around... You might just find a couple of standoffs and do away with the cup? As for the rear cup... it seemed to get stressed with whatever you put in it back in the day, but being a nice nylon it kept right along working. That stuff has some good flex and resiliency in it.... and if it's too much of a problem the re-re one actually has the top of the box a little higher if I read the differences right.

Chris

[surgetek]

Yeah I didn't cut the bottom. It fits nice the way it sits.

I wanted to stick with these lipos because the fit well in my SC10.

[REMJ666]

Nice finish

[surgetek]

Thanks.

Not nearly as done as I want it but I am running out of cash so it'll go on the back burner till after the holidays probably. I'll paint the body and get that nice and pretty.

First of the year I'll get my electronics and really get it rolling.

In the meantime I'm going to clean up and rebuild a gold pan with what I didn't use for this one.

[surgetek]

It's been a long process. Just this past week I stared to cut the body to start painting. A couple money dollars in my account and I'll have the motor and esc. I have to wait on an RX. I got the Orange Rx from HK and it'll be about a month.

I'm thinking white body with blue or blue with white. Maybe I'll paint two bodies.

Here it is as it sits now. These aren't the wheels and tires being used, they're for effect.

[ClemsonRC10]

Looks good so far. What wheels are you planning to use?

[surgetek]

Not sure. I have the re re front and back bead locks.

I'm kind of digging the jr racing 5 spoke in black.

[surgetek]

Alright been awhile since I've had time to do this and post progress.

I shelved it for a few months. My father passed away and then my mother in law so this was the last thing on my list. Now that things have settled and cabin fever is setting in, I've out some time into it.

I decided I was going to go with the hold pan instead of the Graphite chassis. I drafted the swap and soon found out that the Stealth does go on the gold pan without a little something something. So I ordered the template from RC Carbon Works. Nice little ditty and was a $9 investment.

Done

I decided to out the battery transverse so I picked up two battery cups and they'll be installed and fingers crossed the battery I ordered will fit.

Semi done

Move onto the wheels. I grabbed both front and rear J concepts 2.2 off eBay got $8 shipped combined. Ordered some bar codes for both. Glued and ready to mount on the buggy. Rears are a no go. I didn't pre test and I didn't read up. So I grabbed the conversion kit off of eBay, in white which is nice.

My question is has anyone ever installed one? I can't really figure it out by the pictures of it ( I should have it tomorrow). Do I need different dogbones?

I'll get a picture up in a couple.

[surgetek]

After much searching and contacting AE Support, I found I have the universal driveshafts and I need the 6370 and 6372 dogbones.

More waiting to be had.