My Cougar Project

[stulec52]

I came up with a nice solution.
Using 2 bearings, and 2 nylon bushings from Fireblade steering.
It's super smooth now.
Some new hardware on too, and mocked up where the servo will fit, and appears it'll work awesome.
Pics soon, just awaiting a shorty Li-Po to test fit everything.

[Bormac]

Hi Stu.
When I was running my Cougars with a standard length lipo I would trim off the rear servo horn to allow the extra length. The rear bulkhead was also trimmed too. The short lipo batteries are a fair bit shorter so you won't need to do either of these.

[stulec52]

Got my Li-Pos in.
Perfect size.
Now I need to find a more elegant way of mounting them.
Wonder if Tamiya make a piece I could use, or Associated maybe.
Just thinking what my local store might have available to use.

Will post a couple of pics where the car is up to in a day or 2, but coming together nicely.

[CAT3K]

You could use a shorty lipo mount from a Cougar SV2, but you'd have to drill some extra holes I'd think : http://www.wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/124326/ You would also need the posts and a strap too. This would fit shortys and saddles.

Paul.

[stulec52]

I have no issue in drilling out the chassis I'm using for this, so that might be a good piece to get.
It doesn't look the correct shape though, although that might just be the pictures.

[CAT3K]

Yes the shape isn't just for the shorty lipo. Normal saddle packs saddles can fit side by side, then if you're using a shorty lipo, it fits at the back at the holder. You can see the back of the holder has a recess, that's where the shorty would fit.

If you want to fit just a shorty, then possibly a Supastox battery holder would be more suitable: http://www.racing-cars.com/pp/New_Cars_and_Parts/SupaStox/U3958.html It will happily fit a shorty 2s, 4 cell Nimh or 1s lipo.

[stulec52]

here is how I have things so far.
Servo is bolted in, everything else just sat in place.


I think I will get away with running the Li-Po across the chassis that way as it really is so light compared to the old Ni-Cds we used to run.
But, I will look at trying it down the middle as well.
rebuilt the gearbox, and mounted all the arms correctly.
replaced the bearings with a set from Boca Bearings.
Fitted new screws throughout.
I test fitted my B4 shocks, but will have to change fittings for them to fit nicely, so I might just re-build the Schumacher ones.
looking nice already though., probably still about a month away from running it though.

[Bormac]

Hey Stu, good work mate. I really like the Schuey shocks. To get the most out of these I polish the standard shock shafts and replaced the plastic seal housings with the purple alloy items. Stops all the oil leaks and works smooth.

[stulec52]

I'm thinking I'll drop my B4 threaded shocks on though, as they are just better.
just waiting on some other stuff coming in from Apex Models, then some wires to solder in and pretty much done.
Got my wheels in from JC Racing, super fast shipping !! and look great.

[stulec52]

Ok
So I did indeed put the B4 shocks on, I prefer them for lack of leakages and easy adjusts.
Also mounted the motor, a Viper 13.5
And the electronics are in place too.
Just waiting on the shorty lipo tray to arrive from Apex !

Here's today's pics :


Oh and this pic also shows the brace that will hopefully save the front end from breaking

[stulec52]

I bought a 4 cell/ shorty li-po mount for the Schumacher SupaStox, drilled, the chassis and mounted with a couple of spacers, and picked up a couple of Velcro straps to secure the pack.
Works great.
everything is mounted in place now, I think just about ready for a test drive !!

[stulec52]

Need a little help with this.
When I try to tighten the wheels, front AND rear
It gets that the wheels really bind.
Like super tight.
I can loosen the bolts to where they spin I'm, but then not tight enough to stay on.
Any ideas??

[DennisM]

Perhaps Your shaft ends are too short or not prober fit in the hubs. The ends should be flush with the outer bearing wall. If not, the wheels will press against the bearing sides/walls. ?

[Coelacanth]

Perhaps Your shaft ends are to short or not prober fit in the hubs. The ends should be flush with the outer bearing wall. If not, the wheels will press against the bearing sides/walls. ?

Yeah, this happens to me with wheels that use the 12mm hex hubs, if the hubs get pressed in too far when the wheels are tightened, they will press up against the outer bearings and the wheels bind. I'm not knowledgeable about Schueys but make sure there's enough space between whatever hubs they use and the outer wheel bearings. That would be my first guess.

[DerbyDan]

It sounds like you've got the wrong length insert peice for the spacing of the bearings? With the bearings in position & the insert/shaft pressed fully 'home' the castleated end should be flush with the outerface of the bearing.

Another problem could be if the screws holding the front wheels on are too long - binding on the inside back face of the hub moulding?