Replacement Engine For Vintage Cars

[Rc4Lyfe]

Hello all, I have a collection of vintage Kyosho rc buggies & I would like to make some upgrades to me them speed demons. These cars all have mechanical speed controls and use old school 1500 mah 7.2v battery packs. I have a Kyosho Outrage, Kyosho Rocky, Kyosho Raider 2wd, & a Kyosho Raider Pro. I specifically am interested in maybe engine swaps that would compliment these collectibles yet make them scream with speed. I also would like to try lipo packs so I would like some direction on lipos also.

[Hcp22]

Reading this might help http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=24904

[Lonestar]

hi there

I would leave these (very entry-level, even in the 80's) grandmothers alone with their silver cans and MSC's, unless you want to start hunting for spare parts to cover for breakages.

if you still REALLY want to power them up, look into the low-kv (<4000kv) Ezruns, best value for money while still being "reasonable". But I wouldn't if I were you.

Paul

[Coelacanth]

I echo what was already said; those particular Kyoshos weren't built to handle screaming speed--at least not for long. If you don't mind Chernobyl'ing your gearboxes, that is.

I would suggest an EZRun combo (motor + ESC + program card) in either 13.5T or 17.5T would be suitable for those cars. Even 13.5T might be pushing it, but with the ESC & program card, you could dial down the "punch" (off-the-line acceleration) to help prevent gears from stripping out. 17.5T would be a safe upgrade to brushless for those cars.

[Mr. ED]

The outrage should be able to handle a bit faster moter: it has an ultima drive train after all.
13.5 to 10.5. Mind you it's not 100% the moter that determines what will break or not but 90% the way you drive and how much you hit.

Just look at young frivers or reckless ones; they'll break more with a silvercan than an expertdriver running his highspeed stuff

[Coelacanth]

Another point: If you're planning to soup up any vintage entry- to mid-level RC car, you really need to make sure all bushings are upgraded with ball-bearings. If you make the move to LiPo batteries, now's the time to switch out old Tamiya white connectors for better ones that have much lower resistance and won't melt with modern batteries, ESC-and-motor combos. I can't make out what you're using on those cars. Many here love Deans Ultras; I personally prefer the blue EC3 connectors and fitted my cars with them. They're easier to solder than Deans, and you can disassemble them if necessary if you screw up. It's impossible to accidentally reverse the polarity, unlike bullet connectors. The gold-plated 3.5mm bullets inside the EC3s are more than enough for vintage car power needs.

I use plain-Jane 3.5mm or 4mm bullets for ESC-to-motor connections, with rubber sheaths, so motor direction can be reversed simply by switching a few wires. It doesn't matter which wires connect to where between ESC & motor, so there's no worry of frying anything. Using bullets between battery & ESC is just asking for trouble, however. It's all too easy to reverse polarity and fry your ESC.