Thinning Parma Faskoat?

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LTO_Dave
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Thinning Parma Faskoat?

Post by LTO_Dave »

I'm getting ready to airbrush a new Pro-Line Jeep JK body for my crawler, and I got a bottle of Faskoat to back the Fasblack since it will be getting wet and muddy. :mrgreen:

Should I thin the Faskoat or just shoot it straight from the bottle? If thinning, what should I use? Water? If it's water-based, then how is it any different from the other colors and how does it seal them?

I just have a generic plastic airbrush with a .03"/.75mm fine tip from Harbor Freight, so nothing fancy here. I just finished spraying the Fasblack and used about 50-55 psi. Will the Faskoat require more air pressure than the Fasblack?

And can I spray the Faskoat over the Fastint I'll be using on the windows? Will it make them look cloudy?

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Re: Thinning Parma Faskoat?

Post by SluggoV2 »

I don't have any experience with FasCoat, but with that big of a needle I would doubt that you would need to thin it. If you have issues spraying it, thin it. I use regular (non ammonia) Windex to thin the paint, you can just use water too, but Windex actually works really good and it helps to keep your tip from drying out when doing detail work.

I always use something like Krylon or Rustoleum semi-gloss black to back my bodies to help protect the paint work from general wear and tear, plus it also helps protect against damage from nitro fuel. The key is that when backing over a water based paint, like Fascolors, Createx, AutoAir, etc., is to always allow it to dry thoroughly. I usually do mine the next day and then give it another 12 hrs for the Krylon to cure before cutting it out.

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Re: Thinning Parma Faskoat?

Post by LTO_Dave »

Thanks for the help!

I sprayed the Fasblack and let it dry for about two days before peeling off the rear window masks and spraying the Fastint, which is the worst paint ever invented! It fisheyed, puddled and did everything but go on the way I wanted it to. :x

I'm going to let the Fastint dry for about two days before spraying the Faskoat over everything. I was going to use a regular clearcoat like Krylon or something to back it, but I've never had good experiences mixing different paints and wanted to stick with the same brand and type.

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