Help with Rear arm mounts, Front and Rear carriers

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cowsrneat2002
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Help with Rear arm mounts, Front and Rear carriers

Post by cowsrneat2002 »

Hello All,

I have been a member for awhile and put up a couple of posts here and there, but this will be my first question on the forum. Through the years I have purchased a few RC10s and parts lots, and amassed a few rear arm mounts, front and rear carriers. My question is how does one determine the degree of camber and toe for rear arm mounts, front and rear carriers. Any advice or link to an older post would be really helpful. BTW really like the wonderful knowledge and beautiful cars this website provides.

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RC104ever
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Re: Help with Rear arm mounts, Front and Rear carriers

Post by RC104ever »

Good question. I think for the rear they sometimes have a 0 or a 1 on them.
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Phin
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Re: Help with Rear arm mounts, Front and Rear carriers

Post by Phin »

1.5 are unmarked. 0 and 3 degree black mounts are marked. I don't know for sure if there were older white 3 degree mounts that were unmarked but I think their might have been. The only white ones I have that aren't 1.5 are marked as 3 degree.

For the original buggy squarish carriers the left 1.5 is marked with an L but the right isn't. The 1.5 are rounded a bit on the front side corners of the carriers while the 0 degree have squared flat sides.

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Re: Help with Rear arm mounts, Front and Rear carriers

Post by RC104ever »

I dont think there is a way to tell with the fronts though is there?
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Re: Help with Rear arm mounts, Front and Rear carriers

Post by jwscab »

caster for the front carriers you kind of have to own a known pair. For 30 degree ones the hinge pin goes through the carrier exactly 90 degrees becuase it uses the nose kickup to give you 30 degrees of caster. Ones that are less will be on an angle something less than that, the 0 degrees ones have a really steep angle to offset the kickup angle.

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Phin
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Re: Help with Rear arm mounts, Front and Rear carriers

Post by Phin »

For the front you need a protractor.

Stick the longest pin you've got into the castor block hole then measure the angle with one end of the pin at the protractor's pin hole and the flat back of the castor block flush with the 0 degree line. The other end of the hinge pin should point towards 90 degrees for a 30 degree caster, 85 degrees for 25 degree castor, 80 degree for a 20 degree castor, etc.

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Re: Help with Rear arm mounts, Front and Rear carriers

Post by scr8p »

so..... does anyone know how to tell the difference between 0 and 1.5 rear rc10 hubs?

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Re: Help with Rear arm mounts, Front and Rear carriers

Post by Phin »

Only the old buggy style carriers.

Top are 1.5. Bottom are 0. The sides on the 0 are flat with no markings...the 1.5 have an L on the left hub and the rounded bit on the sides along the hinge pin hole.
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rearcarriers.jpg

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Re: Help with Rear arm mounts, Front and Rear carriers

Post by scr8p »

1.5's are thicker at the top too. :wink:

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Re: Help with Rear arm mounts, Front and Rear carriers

Post by Phin »

The black block carriers were all 0 degree correct? While the truck style were 1.5?

cowsrneat2002
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Re: Help with Rear arm mounts, Front and Rear carriers

Post by cowsrneat2002 »

Many thanks for the reply, and great info, looks like I need to get a protractor and a piece of tubing or rod to seperate all the front carriers I have. Now will there always be a "L" or "R" markings on the 1.5 Rear hubs or do I want to go by how thick the top portion is?? And what is the easiest way in determining the difference between the rear suspension mounts? Looks like my weekend will be spent sorting and cleaning suspension parts. fun, fun, and joy joy. Again, thanks for the help.

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