I thought of this a little while ago. Finally got around to making it. To protect the front end of your graphite chassis, take an aluminum nose and cut the front angle off. Then, you'll need to cut about 1/8" or maybe a little less off the front of your graphite chassis. Then, remove the 7 screws that hold the suspension blocks and body mount on, and screw your new bumper to the bottom of your chassis. Great for runners and bashers. The one I had was off a junky chassis that someone engraved with stupid stuff, so I just chopped it, and took my dremel to it to get rid of the engraving, and give it a kind of brushed look, since it's going to get sratched up anyway.
No, I just dipped them in brake fluid. They're temporary arms anyway. I got a good deal on a big lot of spare arms on ebay last night. There is supposed to be Andys, RPM, stock, 10T and a few others in the lot. All for $16 shipped. Hopefully I can find two decent buggy fronts to run on this car. I really hate the looks of those arms. They'll be gone soon enough.
An RC10 isn't an RC10 unless it has the AE script on it's nose
Thanks for stating that someone had already screwed up that noseplate. It would break my heart if someone took a new part (or one in fair condition) and carved it up. I am so po'd at myself for cutting, drilling and otherwise mutilating my cars when I was a kid. Hey, I was a kid.
I think it looks kind of cool all sanded up like that.
Believe me, when I got the car that it came on in the mail with stuff like "Racing" and "Novak" and a few other stupid things engraved in the black, I was not a happy camper. But, I didn't toss it, figured I would eventually find something to use it on. You can still get nose plates fairly cheap, and beater-nose-plate-canditates for dirt cheap.
I agree, every RC10 needs that AE logo out front. Even the graphites.
Anyone know if the front nose plates are still available from Associated? I see them lately on ebay going for big bucks so I wonder if they have them anymore or if its like the $1 gear covers selling for $20.
saw this pic on ebay ..thought it would be a cool way to protect that nice graphite chassis runner..looks like a metal chassis was just cut down..maybe i can make like a full chassis metal skid plate for a graphite chassis??? anyone try something...
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looks damn ugly though, carbon is just so sexy to place some scatched alley over the top scares me :?
well Durafix and aluminum rod were a huge epic failure. stuff just didnt flow and didnt stick well.. i tryed a aluminum braze rod with flux also and that was a failure too, i knew when the welding supply place said i needed a oxy-acetylene torch to...
I am building a modernized RC10 race car and am looking for opinions about chassis selection. I have several a/b/c pan chassis's and also several graphite pieces. I am using the rc carbon works carbon 3mm worlds towers and thought a carbon chassis...
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When I raced stock class graphite was the chassis to have. The whole track was soft and loamy and at those speeds you didn't see much of a handling advantage due to the chassis. The improvement was in the lower weight since we were power and runtime...
Just thought Id post a pic of my graphite RC10s with McAlister vintage dirt mod bodies,still have to add electrics and some different tires.Im going to try 10T rears on mine.Also a pic of my new dirt oval,has a 24 meter pole line.Just have to finish...
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Nice cars and track.my son has been on me to build one as well.maybe this summer i will.its nice when you dont have to travel to race or deal with some of the up tight people that are at them.ya the one's who like to take it way to serious. :lol:...
Hey guys, just wondered if anyone can identify this bumper?
I got it with some other stuff off ebay was going to throw it out but if anyone knows what its for and/or can use it let me know and its yours free of charge :)
cheers
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sure distance between centre of mounting holes is 49mm
I have these two bodies I would like to paint up. I will be just screwing around on asphalt for fun so I am thinking rubbber tires but really don't have a clue. I am an offroad guy and just looking for a cheap option, something I could get easy...
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Be sure to check the width of those bodies at the rear wheel wells - some Bolink bodies are 225 or 230 mm wide, which may be too narrow for a wide RC10L depending on what rear axle is used (most put the car at 230-235 mm wide)