Can't tell which is better for the DB-01 chassis

[Spleen Hammer]

Heya,
While I dig my new Hotshot I can't help but notice that it seems rather archaic whereas some of the newer kits are high speed/low drag with all the applicable bells and whistles.

What has caught my attention are the Baldre and Durga kits, both of which are based on the DB-01 chassis. So, without getting into some long and drawn out explanation as to why I think these cars are diggity, what are the differences between them? I've seen websites where one is more expensive than the other and also vice versa. Or, are they both crap?

If anyone has any insights and/or advice and tips I'd sure like to hear them. Thanks a bunch!
SH

[fredswain]

The Hotshot is archaic. The design is nearly 30 years old. It was never meant to be what rc has become today and was always meant as a fun offroad toy that was a step up from the Toys-R-Us types of rc cars of the day.

[peetbee]

I used to run the DB01 and the chassis is the same between the Durga and the Baldre, the only difference is the shell. The Baldre's shell is a much closer fit to the chassis to keep the muck out!

For racing there are a few must have hopups - TRF501/511 rear diff outdrives as the kit ones are made of cheese, slipper clutch and alloy suspension mounts to keep the wishbones/arms on.
The stock shock absorbers are okay, but I'd replace them with Associated B4 ones if you can't stretch to the Tamiya ones.

However, Tamiya did release the DB01MS that comes with all the hopups as standard and that often works out cheaper than buying the standard kit plus all the hopups at once.

I enjoyed racing it and saw it as a cheap version of the TRF511, but in the end I went back to Associated as I prefer shaft drive over belt.

[Spleen Hammer]

So the only difference between a stock Baldre and a stock Durga is the shell and there is that much disparity between them in price? Huh. Weird. So I could get the cheaper one, get a new shell and I'd still save money? Even weirder.

My current project is to convert my Hotshot from having 2 shocks to having 4 shocks but I'm at a bit of a loss as to which shocks I should even buy, let alone install with confidence. I'm told (from the shop where I bought the conversion parts) that the back shocks should be 90mm and the front ones 70mm. Are these standard sizes?

But yeah, the Hotshot is archaic (which is what I said in my first post ) but I just got it and want to get some mileage out of it first before I move on to something more modern. Which is, of course, the whole point of this thread. I'll never get into racing as I don't have the desire for it, but I'd like something that's not a dinosaur, you know? And 4wd. And Tamiya. Other than the Baldre and the Durga, are there any others out there that I should look into, in your opinion?

Thanks a bunch,
SH

[peetbee]

I don't think the Durga sold as well as the Baldre so it may be discounted more? possibly, who knows with Tamiya!

I disagree slightly with fredswain about the hotshot, it was in it's day a good car, it's just that it's day was so long ago! If you are looking to upgrade the rear shocks on that, then the later Hotshot 2/Boomerang shocks may fit. Back in the day I had a genuine Tamiya twin shock conversion on the front of my Boomerang, you may be able to replicate that as it just used two of the standard front shocks with alloy uprights plus a bracket on the lower arm (sorry I don't know the sizes)

Alternative Tamiya 4wd's (if you really aren't going to race) are the DF02 and DF03 chassis - I owned a DF03 briefly and that seemed pretty robust with a couple of cheap mods.

[Spleen Hammer]

Got another question here for anyone who gives a rip.

If I wanted to go to a LiPo battery instead of my NiMH ones, should I look to a specific kind that fits into my Hotshot, or what? I see that they come in all sorts of sizes but I am unsure which is comparable to the 7.2V sticks. Also, I see that there are 2 plugs coming from them, one that looks "normal" and a smaller one. What is this smaller one for and how much of a pain in the arse would it be to mod my Hotshot?

Cool, that's it for now. Thanks!
SH

[peetbee]

You can get hard case stick lipos that look the same as the nimh packs that would fit straight into the hotshot - people tend to buy them for the tamiya minis, etc
The large connector is for standard power to the car, the smaller connector is your balance lead - plugs into the balance port on your charger for balance charging - something I'd always recommend doing.

[fredswain]

The Hotshot is archaic but when I say that I mean compared to modern cars or even the Baldre/Durga cars. I never said they weren't cool in their day. I always wanted one. I still do! It's only money that holds me back.

[Delorean]

with the DB01, the best option is to get the DB01R (i think thats what the other guy meant with the MS) it comes with the trf dampers, alloy arm mounts, slipper clutch, as stated before, all the additions cost much more than you'd pay buying the durga or baldre then adding on, speedtech have a really good price on the db01r at the moment, you will need to buy a body for it though, at least it means u can pick ur body, or get the db02 body which i believe also fits it. oh but get a hex screw kit for it, trying to put the car together with the tough plastics and phillips head screws is murder, there is a titanium kit for it or tonys do a hex screw kit for it too

if you're going racing with it, if you break an arm, replace it with the 501x arms, they are much stronger

Ive been racing the db01r competitively for about 3 years, the drivetrain is very well sealed and very efficient and u can balance the car left to right with not too much difficulty

[Spleen Hammer]

Wouldn't the cost of the DB01R skyrocket when you add in the cost of the motor, tires, body and whatnot?
The lowest prices I've seen for the 3 kits are as follows:
DB-01R $275.00
Durga: $202.00
Baldre: $331.00

What makes the Baldre so much better that the rest, or is this a case of pricing having nothing to do with quality of the product?
Also, wouldn't the cost of the stuff not included in the kit put the price of the DB-01R at roughly 50% more than the Durga?

Any advice would be great!
SH

[Delorean]

hey SH

i guess whats missing in your info is where you are shopping, i just cheked ebay, u can get both the durga and Baldre for ~$200 US + shipping

There only difference between the durga and the baldre is the body, that is it, there are no other differences, if a shop has them priced differently then they must have a specific motivation to sell one more than the other

The DB01R is good value if you are going to race the car. If its just for bashing, sure, get the durga/baldre. If you are racing it, you will want the better dampers, universal shafts, all the other suspension mounts etc that make the car stronger, all up, the hop ups included have a retail value around $300, yes then u add body, wheels/tires motor etc, most of which, if you were racing, you would be buying yourself to suit your track / racing class

so it all comes down to what u want to do with it

[Spleen Hammer]

Sweet, thank you.

Another question: I've seen all sorts of aluminum parts on the interwebs for sale for the Durga/Baldre. Are the aluminum parts significantly heavier than the regular plastic parts? Also, are they significantly stronger?

I ask this as I have no plans to race, other than my kids and my buddies at a home-made track, but I want something durable. My Hotshot needs to be worked on after everyother time I take it out and while this isn't that big of a deal, it gets rather tiresome after awhile. Plus all the Al parts are a snazzy blue that look pretty diggity.

Oh, side question: Is there a company that will proffesionally paint and snazz up the car's body and spoiler? I've done several so far and they look, well, amature at best.

Edit: Another question: What the heck is a slipper clutch and why should I have a double?
Thanks a bunch!
Spleen Hammer

[Delorean]

i honestly wouldnt bother with all the aluminium bits unless you break something, the plastic parts are quite strong so unless youve got a super fast motor in it, you're unlikely to break much

bodies? yes there are people/places that do them, others will know more

double slipper clutch, its a system that allows the amount of slipper pressure to vary between the front and rear end, normally a slipper just slips depending on the amount of pressure on the spring, then applies the force to the drivertain as a whole, the double system allowed the slipper tension to be adjusted so you could have more slip applying to the rear for example, so the rear wouldnt have as much torque going to it, which would have your front wheels spinning more on power, or you could set it the other way which could help kick the rear out on power. is it worth it? not sure, i never saw anyone who thought it made much / any difference, everyone just recommended to get the normal slipper, again, that would be depending on your motor, if you're not running a big motor, the standard drivetrain can run a decent amount of power through it before it skips belts and the belt tension is nicely adjustable so you can get it just right

[Spleen Hammer]

Diggity. Thanks!

Well, I went and did something I more than likely shouldn't have, but you only life once. I found a Baldre for sale, NIB, online for only $124! So, I bought it! I keep thinking "Man, my wife is gonna kill me!" but I'm divorced now so what the hey, right?

I'm sure there will be a bazillion questions to come, but for now thank you to all that have answered!

Spleen Hammer

[Spleen Hammer]

Okay, here's a new question for any and all:

I've heard good things about LiPO batteries and was curious as to what kinds will fit into the Baldre, or are they all of "stock" size?

And will they really boost the cars' performance? I can understand the duration part of it, but other than that I get flubbered...

Thanks,
Spleen Hammer