Camo RC10T

Post by **rdnether** » Tue Mar 20, 2012 9:55 am

The new bell cranks are shorter than the stock parts, the steering turnbuckles will need to be lengthened. Any suggestions on setting the these so that I have correct steering geometry? Thanks!

Post by **Josh62685** » Thu Mar 22, 2012 10:18 pm

I think it came out great

Post by **THUNDERSTRIKE1** » Thu Mar 22, 2012 10:27 pm

To use the new bellcranks you would need to shorten the wheelbase by moving the noseplate in.By useing the other three holes then steering be correct but wheelbase be shorter.DON

Post by **Bimdapogs** » Mon Mar 26, 2012 9:32 am

You have the wrong size bell cranks. Those are for the buggy.

Post by **rdnether** » Mon Mar 26, 2012 11:17 pm

I think I am going to try to leave the truck in the long wheel base configuration and mount the bell cranks in the forward holes that are for the short wheel base. This looks like it will make everything line up pretty well. The only downside I can see is a little added weight (two screws). Anyone have any experience doing this?

Thanks!

Post by **THUNDERSTRIKE1** » Tue Mar 27, 2012 12:06 am

Just got to make sure the ballcups dont hit the the top tunbuckle ballcups on the tower,doin it that way.Using RPM ON BOTH THEY HIT WAY MORE SO I USE STANDARD BALLCUPS ON TOP ONES only on the two tower balls rest i do rpm or all standard cups..Dang laptop has no caps light on it lol sorry.DON

Post by **rdnether** » Tue Mar 27, 2012 11:09 pm

Thanks! I hadn't thought about the interference from the ball caps. I will be sure to check that out.

Post by **longboardnj** » Thu Apr 05, 2012 2:18 pm

rdnether wrote:I think I am going to try to leave the truck in the long wheel base configuration and mount the bell cranks in the forward holes that are for the short wheel base. This looks like it will make everything line up pretty well. The only downside I can see is a little added weight (two screws). Anyone have any experience doing this?

Thanks!

this is how i like to set up my ts and t2s.. i get 3 small nuts to lock the front end to the chassis and use bearing buggy steering.. this strong setup is why im such a fan of these rcs (t and t2)

Post by **rdnether** » Mon Apr 09, 2012 2:08 pm

Anyone know where I can get an aluminum rear bulkhead for this RC10T?
Thanks!

Post by **klavy69** » Mon Apr 09, 2012 10:24 pm

rdnether wrote:Anyone know where I can get an aluminum rear bulkhead for this RC10T?
Thanks!

ebay is your best bet...

Post by **rdnether** » Tue Apr 10, 2012 1:38 pm

I haven't been able to find one on ebay, I've been looking for a couple months. Maybe there is another solution, what I am trying to do is configure this thing to accept a lipo. I really don't want to cut up my original rear bulkhead. Any successful solutions?

Post by **rdnether** » Mon Apr 30, 2012 9:35 pm

Finally, a rolling chassis!

Post by **rdnether** » Mon Apr 30, 2012 9:44 pm

Another pic...

Post by **rdnether** » Mon Apr 30, 2012 9:46 pm

One more...

Post by **rdnether** » Mon Apr 30, 2012 9:51 pm

Any recommendations on a brushless motor/esc combo? I'm considering the Duratrax element 3900kV.

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