HI!... Well I started to work on a RC-10 that will be a runner, not a shelf queen. This one started out as a TEAM "B" chassis. I had the chassis powder coated blue. Bought some NIP RPM front/rear "A" arms. All new bearings through out. Most of the parts are new and bought black. A few others were dyed black. I'll be running a EZ-RUN 8.5 BL motor and 80 amp ESC. 7.4V LIPO.
Can someone suggest some shock for this project? I've seen some blue anodized shocks on the AE site. I think they are for a B3/B4? Are they any good? Same as the vintage Gold RC-10 shocks but just blue?
I also ordered 3 sets of wheels. 1 white, 1 green, 1 black. Going to go with the black on this. The wheels that are on it in the pics are not the wheels I'll be running.
I'm also going to run this body. I believe it's call a Stealth.
yep, you can run associated blue shocks. Same as gold or hard anodized, just blue. There is one goofy thing you will have to watch out for.
the B4, B4.1 shocks are .89" front, and 1.18" rears
the T4, sc10 are 1.02" front, 1.39" rear, so as you can see, nothing directly matches with a gold tub.
you can use B4 fronts, and t4 rears, but they rears would be slightly too long. you could use b4 rears, but they would be slightly too short.
this part number: 6424B is a 1.32" blue shock body. you can also get .71" fronts I believe, but the .89" should work Ok with the front tower you have.
so you can either use shocks that are slightly different, or you can build the exact right shock combination.
honestly you might be perfectly fine running the T4 or B4 sets in the rear, as long as you make sure your travel limiters are done properly(both internal and external)
I hope that wasn't too confusing...it's still early and I haven't finished my coffee....
That was very good info regarding the shocks, will help me on my build for a modern/vintage racer.
Was going to post though and offer kudos to this build. I like the black and blue! The wheel/tire setup looks menacing.
Question for powder coating: Has anyone done a before and after to see what the impact is to the weight? The powder coating to me would have a more significant effect than anodizing but it may be immaterial.
THE H.P FREAK wrote:HI!... O.k? I see nothing there on proper shock measurements......
it wasn't linked for shock measurements........
flipwils11 wrote:Question for powder coating: Has anyone done a before and after to see what the impact is to the weight? The powder coating to me would have a more significant effect than anodizing but it may be immaterial.
Very cool looking car, I like the blue ae shocks, I am using them on a current project.
One suggestion I have is to cut down the nose tubes you are using for wing tubes to level them up with the tower.
m_vice wrote:Very cool looking car, I like the blue ae shocks, I am using them on a current project.
One suggestion I have is to cut down the nose tubes you are using for wing tubes to level them up with the tower.
HI!... Actually that was done on purpose. I like the tubes a bit higher due to it make for putting on the body easier..... for me.
m_vice wrote:Very cool looking car, I like the blue ae shocks, I am using them on a current project.
One suggestion I have is to cut down the nose tubes you are using for wing tubes to level them up with the tower.
HI!... Actually that was done on purpose. I like the tubes a bit higher due to it make for putting on the body easier..... for me.
understood, I mentioned it mainly because I don't like to see the side holes.
The powder coated chassis looks great. I collecting parts to build a modern racer. I was on the fence to re-ano or powder coat to cover some of the scratches. The power coat looks great.
zleader wrote:The powder coated chassis looks great. I collecting parts to build a modern racer. I was on the fence to re-ano or powder coat to cover some of the scratches. The power coat looks great.
HI!... Thanks, I have a local guy here in town that does great powder coating. I have my own glass beading cabinet so I glass beaded all the original anodizing off and brought it to him. I believe he charged me something like $10 (CAN) to do it. He also did my black TEAM car chassis. IMO it's 100% nicer than the anodizing. He's looking into a powder coating process that will give me both RC10 copper/orange anodizing colours but in powder coating instead. I have 15 more RC10's to restore and some of the chassis's are pretty scratched up.
Been collecting these new parts for awhile now since Orange's RC10.2(Seanster :mrgreen: ) tickled my fancy. Never really liked the Associated blue, but thought this mix of parts looked good and incorporated a lot of the newer offerings on the latest...
Another box art finished product coming between these two. Hopefully this weekend, time permitting (I really need to prioritize and put Project Scr8p at the front of the list, but we'll see what happens). It should complement my SNIB RC10GT well.
Last post
justinspeed79...? You don't actually have to drill the extra holes in the chassis... :wink:
No thanks, not right now anyway. I already have the motor mount for my project covered. IMO, this is the best motor mount for a tub chassis GT. :)
I just bought a black tub RC10 buggy from tbfoto in the BST section. It has some greenish blue nylon parts. What's the story with these? When I got out of the hobby in the 90's, they still had white parts. How long were they in kits?
Last post
Your buggy is already boxed up and shipped out. If I had seen this thread before I shipped it I would have taken a few close up photos for you. I got the buggy with the parts that way. If they are dyed....it was done pretty well. Even the tranny is...
This truck started out as a factory Team gt. I put all the available blue RPM parts on it a while back. This year I decided to blue it out as much as I could without going nuts with aluminum. I've been collecting parts for the rebuild and finally...
Last post
My daughter flipped when she saw that, running to mommy to tell her that I ruined the marker they had just bought me today. :lol:
Finally had the chassis anodized last week so it's time to get to work.
I've also been getting trained on the CNC router table at work, So now I get to make some parts. I cut out a aluminum bulkhead for this truck and a spare just in case :D
I'll...
Very excited about this truck! Overall the truck arrived from Ebay in very good shape with almost every part included. It looked like the truck was used only once or twice then collected dust for 20 years.
I am going to use the Team Blue Groove...
Last post
TBG now sells a repro of that body. Probably the only way to go nowadays. I bought my body directly from Traxxas a couple/few years ago and the guy told me it was the last one. They didn't have any decal sheets, but I managed to find one on ebay...
Well, for years, I have dreamed of a custom Optima build which incorporated custom anodised chassis parts, belt drive system, ball diff, oneway front, 2.2 in. yokomo rims, racing shocks, etc. -as a racer. Well, here it is my Blue Edition Optima . It...
Last post
i got some extra wide hexes from an A&L kit i bought that would be perfect for the problem you are having with them being so close to the side guards. pm daryl lane maybe he has extra's.
Thanks bdrmbully, those would be great! I sent a PM to...