Personally, I can't tell the difference at all to be honest with regard to the slipper units.
I still run my gold runner RC10CE with a standard original stealth transmission slipper, slipper media, spring and nut all that have been raced from the 90's and can't tell any difference between it and when I test my B4, testing them side by side. Logic would dictate the new one is a better design by the way it locks into the gear, I just can't feel any difference.
Maybe I just have no sensitivity left.
The newest 4.1 versions with the Losi style spring and flat faced outer hub are way, way easier to adjust correctly. But, I have locked all my slippers down since my very first race-so I can't tell the difference either.
Kyosho Fan2 wrote:So has anyone fitted a B4 slipper to their B2/B3 as i cant make it fit properly so anyone know what thread i need to read so i can use the B4 slipper?
Also thanks on the ujs, they are b44 ujs by the look of it so im buying a pair.
What kind of problem you having ? Mine was a drop in fit.
Compared to the original slipper unit the b4 setup is better for brushless/lipo use.
I useing a xerun 60a ESC with lots of boost and turbo paired with a trinity 13.5t motor. Before the mod had a terrible time getting power to the ground but now dont have any issues.
The B4 has a large silver washer that goes in the gearbox on the shaft and without the extra gap between the geabox casing on the B2 the washer cant be used and where the back of the slipper plate meets on the layshaft is the problem as there is a big gap between the back plate to the gearbox casing and the metal plates dont sit level so the spur is not totally straight so cant be used. How did this get resolved so the spur is perfectly level?
Something else is wrong, other than 2 .03mm shims on either side of the shaft, it is a drop in part- and all lines up correctly. The top shaft ( other than the cut ) offset and gear count has not changed in the history of the Stealth gearbox, but if you bought one for the GT2 then the offset is way different- I have a B4 topshaft/slipper in my rc10, 10t, b2 and T2 runners-
Charlie don't surf wrote:Something else is wrong, other than 2 .03mm shims on either side of the shaft, it is a drop in part- and all lines up correctly. The top shaft ( other than the cut ) offset and gear count has not changed in the history of the Stealth gearbox, but if you bought one for the GT2 then the offset is way different- I have a B4 topshaft/slipper in my rc10, 10t, b2 and T2 runners-
Charlie, are saying that the B3 washers/shims should still be used but the spacer that is used in the B4/T4 is not? I made the swap using only the B3 shims.
Charlie don't surf wrote:Something else is wrong, other than 2 .03mm shims on either side of the shaft, it is a drop in part- and all lines up correctly. The top shaft ( other than the cut ) offset and gear count has not changed in the history of the Stealth gearbox, but if you bought one for the GT2 then the offset is way different- I have a B4 topshaft/slipper in my rc10, 10t, b2 and T2 runners-
Charlie, are saying that the B3 washers/shims should still be used but the spacer that is used in the B4/T4 is not? I made the swap using only the B3 shims.
Yes, just the small bearing spacers to eliminate the backlash slop, not the 1/4" ( losi style ) inner spacer
HELLO This is the Rustbucket. Those that are doing that swap from RC 10 top shaft to the later ones. It works grate. THEN you can use the later spure gears. NOW one more thing it will also work with RC 10 Trucks. I have converted all of rigs about 3 years ago. It is sure nice to be be able to walk in at a race that has an in store hobbie shop and and just ask for the later spur gear it happen to me when I went up to four seasons one year. I strip a spur on my RC 10 buggie walk up to counter and just ask for one. GOT a funny look at first untill I told them what I did. SO yes that is a very good up date and the number on the teeth of the top shaft is the same . YOU dont even have to change the bearings they all work. JUST remove everything on top and replace everything with the newer set ups.
YES It has been a wile since I have last been on the board. HOPE all of you had a nice xmas and new years. DON THE Portland Rustbucket . have agood weeken.
So how do you get the plates and spur to allign properly? Ive put the b2 washers on the b4 layshaft and put back together then fitted the motor plate and added the first slipper back plate, washer,spur,washer,front plate and b4 spring and nut but its not alligned level so what am i doing wrong. There is a gap between the back of the motor plate and front of gearbox where the layshaft comes out of as i didnt use that big bearing spacer/washer. Its really got me stumped. Ive designed far more complex things but i am at a loss.
You guys must have come across this so how do i resolve this?
The shaft and slipper plates were all from the B4 manual parts list and came labelled B4. I spent last night building it again and the issue looks to be the actual plates have not been made correctly as they either have not been made totally flat or totally circular. Im sending those parts back for replacement.
I also checked my T4 slipper assembly and thats perfect as the spur is perfectly alligned. I may take apart and fit the plates to the B2 gearbox tonight to make sure that what i think is correct.
Bing [Bot], 