Brushless RC10 buggy/oval

[Bent]

Hey PBR took her out for a spin earlier and she's sliker n greased owl shi..... I will be spending all day trying to get the car set up.

[Bent]

CAR SPECS:

RC10 Buggy
RC10 Stealth tranny.
Full bearings not bushings.
Stock gears in the trans.
Traxxas Velineon 3500 Brushless Motor.
Castle Side Winder ESC.
4500 8.4v 7 cell ORION rocket pack.
84 tooth spur 18t pinion.
TC3 shocks with springs. Turns out they are not speed's!
Stock towers and wide track arms and stock arm mounts on the front RPM arms out back.
Skyion High torque servo.
Full ball bearing steering
Axial battery tray/straps.
Traxxas TQ radio with Traxxas 3ch receiver
Custom works Open comp Camaro (no longer allowed)
Custom works Street track tires.
*************************************************************************************************************************
Track specs
The overall track area is 140 ft. long by 84 ft. wide. The track is typically run packed and made of, well..dirt, lots of dirt. All I know is that its red dirt.

Alex Garca said
The surface at Indy rc has not changed much. It is abrasive and will wear pin tires.
We ran Cw street track tires friday and they worked real well and had plenty of bite, actually picked up over the pin tires.
*************************************************************************************************************************
DODC series Rules for,All 2WD Classes:

All entries must be 2wd and rear wheel drive only. (check)
All cars must have 4-wheel independent suspension. (check)
No straight axle cars allowed, single speed transmissions only. (Check)
All corners of bodies and wings must be rounded for safety. No silicone or rubber capped tires allowed. (Check)

Wheelbase:
9.500” min, 11.500" max ( check 10.5)

Buggy Tires:
Max wheel diameter: 2.2” front and rear (don't know)
Max wheel width: 1.750” rear, 1.000” front (Check)
Max tire width: 1.850” rear, 1.250” front ( Check 1.5 rear, 1.2 front)
Maximum width: 10.250" (Check 9.5)
Street trac tires, which I have now, will be allowed at Indy Rc.

Batteries:
Any 2cell 7.4v lipo


------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Late model:1/10 electric

My body is not legal and I am currently working on correcting that!
Approved Late Model Body List :
Custom Works #9012 Eldora Late Model
Custom Works #9014 Paducah Late Model
Custom Works #9015 Springfield Late Model
Custom Works #9070 Keystone Late Model
McAllister #207 Tulsa Late Model
McAllister #250 Vegas Late Model
McAllister #252 Winchester Late Model
McAllsiter #237 Bakersfield Late Model
BMS Racing #P103 Shadow
Factory Works #7353 Rocket Late Model
Factory Works #7357 Concord Late Model
C&M Bodies #2010 Volunteer Late Model
C&M Bodies #2010-003 Nightmare Late Model
Stalker Bodies #009 Sniper 9 Late Model
Stalker Bodies #010 Sniper Late Model

I have no under body support!
An under body support may be added to brace each rear quarter panel, but must hold it in stock position, can not be flared out.
No additional wings, flaps, spoilers, wickers, vents or doohickeys will be allowed.
Body may not be altered in any way from it’s stock configuration ie: shortened, lengthened, narrowed, flared fenders etc.
Front and rear windows may be removed at trim lines but a flat lexan or similar material deck must be added in cockpit area.
Bodies with add on roofs may leave front and rear windows in or out but roofs must be mounted in stock position.

Rear Spoiler:
maximum chord is 2.750" from body deck including any wickerbills (check 1.8 ) Not installed on test run

Power system electric:
Any brushless speed control and motor (check)

Weights (including transponder)
Late Model: minimum weight is 50 oz. (CHECK approx, 4lbs give or take)

All My shocks are smooth with good pistons and not loose sloppy ones, all my hinge pins are nice and free, made sure my plastic is all tight and smooth.
Front shock tower has a lil play but I cant seem to make it tight.

I do not know what caster blocks are in the car.
*************************************************************************************************************************
Racing dirt oval is very sensitive on car setup, this much I know I used to run nitro back in 98-2001 and as you know alot has changed and I have moved to electric. from 2002-2004 I ran 1:1 dirt oval no relevance I know just making my point on set up sensitivity.

Handling issues:

On take off the rear of the car wants to jump left or right from a stand still when rolling the rear wants to jump left.

Corner entrance is sweet feels real good. At mid corner it get loose and by late not quiet exit Im power sliding it.

Straight track is good it don't drift or sway like some of my old nitro cars.

Hope this helps. I do not have anything special and haven't been able to get to the tire shop yet to get my weights.

[Charlie don't surf]

Most of the handling issues that you describe sound like a diff that is too tight. There are a bunch of other variables such as lift point, throttle ramp etc- but overall all the "problems" can simply be an overtightened diff.

[PBR Allstar]

the fact that the car consistently wants to go ass left on accelleration tells me that you may have a diff, or a drivetrain binding issue Like Reggie pointed out, or there are some corner weight issues.

what springs and oils are in the car and their location? what are the spring collar adjustments like (distance of exposed thread above the collar)?


what are the toe and camber settings?


How much droop travel is in the rear suspension (with the car at ride height, pick up the rear of the car and how far can you lift it before the tires come off the ground)? Being in a situation with a tight diff and and no down travel in the suspension will result in a very loose car most of the time.


Since you've been involved with big cars, what does the cross weight feel like? just pick up the tires and lift them one at a time and which ones feel heavy?




Typically with a rear engined car on an oval I've always had good entry, the challenge has always been to get the car to free up on exit, especially with the battery mounted on the left side so I think you probably have a simple fundamental issue with the car. what might help is to post up some pics if you can, post a good head on front suspension pic and the same for the rear.

[Bent]

what are the toe and camber settings?........I do not know I do not have a gauge to measure that.

The cross weight feels good in my opinion

I will certainly loosen the diff before my next run. Had snow this week so I didn't get to the track.

Also I do not have enough wire on the esc to relocate further forward the best I could do would be to lower it.

[PBR Allstar]

take just a little bit of the negative camber out of the RR, put a little bit of negative camber in the RF. It looks like you have quite a bit of toe out in the front, I'd take some out (just a touch of toe out in the front) In the rear, associated made 0*, 1.5* and 3* inner mounts, as well as 0* and 1.5* hub carriers, traditionally, more toe in will make for a more stable car, sometimes it means it will be a little less nimble in the corners, but often times if you're running 0* toe in in the rear the car will be loose on throttle whereas if you were running 3* toe in in the rear the thing would be glued to the track. So this is important to know. if you take a picture of the underside of the car, nice and centered I can probably tell ya which combination you have.


As far as the springs go, are they all the same spring? the reason I ask is that the LF spring looks like it has a lot more preload then the RF spring, yet the collars are all the way at the top? To add to my confusion it looks like the right side of the chassis is low (I see the bumper is crooked, but looking at the hinge pins the Right looks low), yet the battery is on the left? Are all the shocks the same length? (make sure the screw on ends are threaded on the same amount on each shock) And looking at the springs, is there any droop travel in the suspension like I was talking about? (when you pick up the chassis do tires stay on the ground, and how far can you lift the chassis before the tires come off the bench?) If you don't have any this will also play havoc with what you're trying to do and will make a lot of setup changes less effective or nullify them completely.

Lastly, do you have wheel spacers in the rear? You don't need to have them necessarily, but I've seen custom works rims hit the arm right where the outer shock mount hole is on RPM arms before, they don't hit much, usually just under cornering, but it's enough to make the car screwy a little bit. look at the arms to see if they've been touching, if so just dremel or file some clearance.

[Bent]

Ok the rear has no droop and and yes the front shocks are in different holes but it 3wheels if not like they are. . There is no spacers on any wheel how ever none of them rub I am not using CW wheels either I have a set of Assoc. wheels on it. Duratrx flanged bearings out front.

This is as straight as I could get. If you need others lemme know.

[PBR Allstar]

Okay, you need to get droop travel in all the corners of the car, not having any basically means that as the car goes over any bump the front or back of the car is going to skip around and not follow the terrain of the track, even if the track is very smooth there is still enough change to upset the car. With that said I think we've discovered a fundamental problem with your car that needs to be fixed. seeing as your spring collars are all the way up you can't soften the suspension with those springs any more, you either need to: go to a softer spring and a lower ride height, or: a longer shock with a taller tower, or: a shorter spring.

What springs are on your car now?????

I always ran .71 bodies in the rear and .56 bodies in the front with .56 shafts all around for what it's worth. I think you're should be able to make what you have work though.


those are 3* rear arm mounts and 0* hub carriers by the way.

[Bent]

If I can make a 74 monte win a race with a rookie driver and a junk yard motor I can work with this.

Anyhow I do not know what springs are there. The fronts are like truck springs squeezed on to tc3 shocks and the rears I guess are tc3. So honestly I do not know.

"those are 3* rear arm mounts and 0* hub carriers by the way." Thank You for the info here.

go to a softer spring and a lower ride height, I cannot do this out back man, I am already bottoming out in places as it is. I'm not trying to be an ass or go contradict what you said, but I don't want to trash my chassis either.


My biggest deal with this car and racing now is that so much shit has changed and I used to be so good with nitro that I do not want to make a legit series race and end up looking like a fool because the car I have wont work. If I look like a fool I want it to be because of my driving and not the car. I will make the changes and adjusments that you listed tomorrow. With the snow then freeze and no sand on the roads yet I am not even going to attempt to get out tomorrow.