First RC10 build from scratch using misc. parts. RPM arms and ends, MIP tranny, CVD's, Duratrax shocks. I Found the chassis on the Bay but it's in worse shape than I thought and will probably be replaced since most of the other parts on the buggy are new. It's starting to come apart at the front. Anybody know how to stop this?
MIP tranny.
I tried to take it apart for a rebuild but one of the set screws seems to be in soo tight, it seems welded in. I can't get it to budge at all. I thought about drilling it out but I don't want to damage the cup. Might just have to remain dirty.
I like the way these Jammin tires look on these wheels. Will go with 3 piece wheels in the front too. They were a real tight fit on the MIP CVD's for some reason. I need to find a rear bulkhead now. It's one of the few things holding me back. I want to use this Pro body but the chassis pokes out in the front a little so I'm wondering if the Viper body would be a better fit.
Might go with these rear tires instead. Think they fit the look better.
Nice project.
I think another member here (Reggie?) has a way to repair the damage to the front.
Maybe some epoxy....clamp the parts together with wax paper to keep it smooth?
"I've got a fever, and the only prescription.....is more cowbell." Pinstriping by Josh
are those the good year tires?!
looks to be very period correct, just missing a few parts though, but its still a beauty!!!whats the bottom look like?
"your attitude in general and had robbed you of any credibility in my opinion. honesty costs nothing by the way."
a quote from Bormac. i think he's rite.
im confused now. is the the "A" stamped gold pans supposed to have the rear shock tower that has one hole or 2 holes to mount the shocks? i know theres 2 different ones, but what one is the "A" stamp supposed to have?
do you have a part number for that unpainted body ? i dont want to make a topic for something that will take one answer!!
"your attitude in general and had robbed you of any credibility in my opinion. honesty costs nothing by the way."
a quote from Bormac. i think he's rite.
The body part # is 6160 Protech body. Tower has 'em. And the bottom is pretty clean, I just need to bend the nose plate back into shape. And the tires are Pro-line Champions.
The rear shocktower thats on there is not the original one but the one that came with the buggy has the same hole pattern. Not sure if it was the original one since I bought the RC10 used and it used to be set up for dirt oval.
Still no rear bulkhead. And I decided to use the shocks on another project. I think some silver shocks would look better on here anyway. I couldn't think of what color to paint it so I went with what I already had and that ended up being white. The stripes are Autographics decals. Love the old school look of them. I still need to cut out the windows, add some window netting, find some spot lights, and paint up the driver figure.
Driver head from Beetlelover on Tamiyaclub.
Also need to find some front tires for these wheels up front.
I need to find a radio to complete my blue rc10 b3 shelfer and I'd like it to be period correct, which by my figuring should be late 90's? I have a blue LRP receiver (FM) so I need something compatible.
I've never had a KO Propo anything and...
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As you can see, I got an EX1 mars, on my manual it's written 1996/1997.
it seems to be the good period for your B3
It's a pretty good Tx, no need to get another since that time.
I think AE made a mistake in their manual with their CVD upgrade kit. The spacers (not included with the kit :? nor were the part #7364 hubs :? ) should go on the inside and not the outside or the dog bones fall right out.
It worked out OK on the...
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The diagram is correct. The blue spacer is designed to keep the wheel from touching anything but the inner race of the bearing when the nut is tightened. Yes, it may be too thick and cause issues if your right height is set too high in the rear, but...
Hi guys, new member here with a Late Edinger that I pulled out of 25 year storage. New battery and works mostly great. I am conisder upgrading the mechanical speed control with a period correct ESC with reverse. What performance gains can expect...
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Ever have one of those DOH! Moments? I could have probably just went to the shop and opened the box :roll: I totally forgot I had this ko
I’m searching for a period correct ESC for my mid Edinger shelf queen. What models were popular back then?
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There might be other choices but a Novak Nesc-1 or 4 would be matching best, because Novak was used by the AE team.
The NESC-4 is just the budget version of the NESC-1. Cheaper FET transistors were used, maybe also thinner wires. Electronics such be...
Threw this together to have some fun with! It runs really good and I've let some of my friends race it to help the turnout in our mod truck class at my local track. Handles like a champ and keeps on going!
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Top work! Having the matching period correct Novak RX & TX is a nice touch 8)