I have one...somewhere.Mr. ED wrote:Asso-man,
Tulsa or shodog had an original rollcage awhile ago: in case you wanna start looking out for one of these bodies.

Actually its just the three of us running the vintage cars over here. We also all run Mini Coopers (Tamiya M03) but the turnout is much better with up to 10 cars in every meeting. Here's a link to some pics I posted at tamiyaclub about two years ago, since then it got even more popular. http://tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=41109&id=1147Asso_man! wrote: Snake, sorry I didn't see you were living in Israel, you must be the only one here... is vintage racing popular over there?
Cheers
Sorry I can't answer this as I don't have a Pro chassis to test fit it. You may not have a problem lengthwise (the body can be mounted a little short from the front bulkhead and still look nice) but the chassis is wider in the front and the body may not clear it.Asso_man! wrote:do you think that Butterfly body would fit an Ultima Pro chassis?
Thanks ED, I've been pretty busy lately and didn't get much time working on my vintage stuff (suffice to say that it took me about 6 months to get this body painted). Getting bit by the crawler bug didn't help either!Mr. ED wrote:Hey Snake, great to see you hopping by again!
The new body looks pretty; for a moment I thought you had a box-art optima body on it.
Snake Plissken wrote:I just finished painting a new body for my Ultima so thought I share it here. Decided to treat it with a new body as its one of my favorite runners and I really enjoy running it. Its being continually upgraded whenever I get the chance. Currently it has a Duratrax carbon chassis with alloy upper deck, ball bearing steering, ball diff, universal shafts and I just replaced the worn rear tires with new bowties. Future upgrades/wish list would be installing a Triumph gearbox like Bormac and some other members recently did (I race against stealth RC10 tubs and the Ultima is definitely the noisiest car on the track plus, I really would like to have a decent slipper!) and Pro XL suspension for better handling.
The body is a Kamtec repro for Turbo/Pro Ultima and was a real nightmare to finish -the window lines were non existent and it took me some time to get the masking right.
i use the parma liquid mask for windows, it brushes on easily, if you have a steady hand its pretty easy to get the lines perfect, and if you dont you can easily exacto off the excess. plus not a drop of paint should get under those masks, they stick like a mofo and are easy to pull off when done. One tip though, if you are using faskolor paints, run a sharp exacto over the lines again because with the thick paints like that, sometimes you get a paint pull when you remove the masks, unless you cut a line first. rarely happens but u want to be safe.Snake Plissken wrote:The body is a Kamtec repro for Turbo/Pro Ultima and was a real nightmare to finish -the window lines were non existent and it took me some time to get the masking right.
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