RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

RichieRich wrote:Looking from the top, my cut starts 43 mm in from the tip of the front. So I guess I'm not cutting on the same line as the sides where the steering exits the body, it's a little farther forward. The body is 36mm wide where it passes through the shock tower, then widens out to 44mm at the tip. I have to put the nose through the shock tower sideways when I put the body on.

My tower measured 1.2 inches (about 30.5 mm). I marked the body to have a 1" center to allow it to pass through the tower. I plan on doing what you did and keeping the very front tip wide (original). I also want to NOT use the existing steering exit line for my final/end cut.

Thanks again for the info. I'll have a post soon with my final result.

Ok, so I've read in 15 different threads and I've 15 different ways of hooking up the rear end for modern wheels.

My plan, and please kick me in the but if I'm off...

Klein rear arms (if they ever show up)
RPM RC10GT rear carriers part # 70272
Stock RC10 inner and outer hinge pins
Assoc B4 wheel spacers # 9608B
Assoc axle shims # 7368
B44 rear CVA's # 9756

Avid bearings once they get some stock

And either J Concepts Rulux or Proline wheels

And what are people doing for rear bulkheads? Has anyone tried to contact a company like RPM or Associated to see if they would re-pop them?

That recipe looks correct to me. Maybe add a little ground chili pepper to spice it up.

If you need a bulkhead, there's plenty here on the board and they pop up on ebay all the time. RPM's standard answer to reproducing anything has been "no".

RichieRich wrote:That recipe looks correct to me. Maybe add a little ground chili pepper to spice it up.

If you need a bulkhead, there's plenty here on the board and they pop up on ebay all the time. RPM's standard answer to reproducing anything has been "no".

Thanks Ritchie, and I was assuming that there would be a lot of the bulkheads here, I just haven't got access to the for sale section yet, I have a ton of parts i need to list there and probably turn right back around and buy as well lol

I think I need some help from the group because I'm just not finding a combination that works in the rear. I have a B44 roller that I was able to cannibalize for the B44 CVD's to try different combinations. I got some RPM rear hub carriers for the B4 and B44 and used RPM rear arms and the B44 CVD's. The dogbone seems to bottom out in the trans output shaft especially on the right side. So that won't work very well.

I also have a pair of Klein rear arms and I just don't see how in the hell these will work with B44 CVD's because the arms are so long. They definitely won't work with the RPM rear hub carriers. I also tried the stock B44 hub carriers and they don't work either in the combinations mentioned above. I ALSO bought a pair of the metal RAcer's edge B44/B4 rear hubs and they won't work but I didn't drill them out as Jeff Harris does in his build thread. I didn't want to ruin them and I don't quite understand what spacing/fitment the drilling fixes.

I've seen others in this thread use RPM RC10GT rear hub carriers but I'm so frustrated trying to make this work that I don't want to go out and buy any other parts that will end up not working again.

Can someone help me here?

Edit. Pics of what I've tried. This is with the Klein arm on and a B3 rear hub which appears to be closer to a solution, but the B44 CVD hits the Klein arm before the bottom of the suspension travel and I didn't think I needed to cut and modify the Klein arms from anything I've read.

there's only 4 hubs that i know of that will work with the klein arm/b44 cvd:

losi 2038
custom works 3241
rpm 70272 (for the gt)
rpm worlds

there's probably others, but if you don't want to keep wasting money, get one of those.

Thanks, I ordered the GT hubs and pulled the trigger on a pair of the Losi hubs on ebay so I can compare and see which I like.

i like the 2038's myself. tons of camber options.

I went with the rpm 70272 carriers because they are much easier to find/replace.

I went with those too for the same ease of obtaining parts factor

the custom works hubs are just as easy to get. not to mention, they use a more standard 3/16 x 3/8 plain bearing.

also, if you need to have the "bling factor", there's always these kranzels hubs.

https://www.kranzelshobbies.com/2010/10/aluminum-rear-hub-carriers-2/

RC10T chassis (short) Cut / re-tapped nose plate
Klein arms dyed black
B4.1 hubs spindles and axels
b4 rear shocks up front
RC10DS steering
futaba 3003 servo
FS-GT3B controller
mamba max pro ESC
Novak Ballistik 13.5
Jay Dub rear shock tower, limited T4 rear shocks. (need to swap them out with B4 rears)
worlds rear a-arms
SC10 rear hubs
b44 cva's
jconcepts tires and wheels.
And some brand of bug body I just happened to have laying around.
Started out as a $40 ebay truck

Correct front RPM 91 arms? (on a truck I picked up and received today)

These dont appear to be swept back enough, thinking maybe Losi Pro SE RPM arms?

Since there are several different upgrade suspension options listed here, I've tried to go through to determine which ones are the most popular/common. I'm going to miss a few of course but these seem to be the main ones so hopefully anyone who still has a stock RC10 rear end who wants to upgrade can use this as a reference. Feel free to add or correct any details that I miss as I guarantee that I've missed or left some things out.

If using Klein rear arms and B44 CVD's:
Hub options:
Losi 2038 3/16" x 3/8" bearings.
Custom Works 3241 3/16" x 3/8" bearings.
RPM RC10GT 70272 3/16" x 1/2" bearings.
RPM World's (which bearings?)
Additional:
B4 rear axle spacers


If using Klein rear arms and B4 CVD's:
Hub options:
RC10T/T2
Additional:
B4 Hub bearings
B4 inner hub spacers (a must)
B4 outer axle spacers