jwscab wrote:Hey Scr8p, can you guys add a link to the original thread that started all of this to the first post? I have a heck of a time trying to find it all the time, and it's still got all the good info regarding all the options and evolution of the mods. I see a lot of questions that can be answered by referring to that original thread in this one.
I need some help!! I have the b4 cvd's and b4 hubs trying to fit with the lein arms. Problem is that it seems like with any droop the axle comes out of the outdrives. Tryed using 10t hub and when up travel, the axle goes too far and bottoms out in the back of the outdrives. I saw where someone said inner spacer. What part #? I would love to drive the old man again. Please help
mdwaeracer wrote:I need some help!! I have the b4 cvd's and b4 hubs trying to fit with the lein arms. Problem is that it seems like with any droop the axle comes out of the outdrives. Tryed using 10t hub and when up travel, the axle goes too far and bottoms out in the back of the outdrives. I saw where someone said inner spacer. What part #? I would love to drive the old man again. Please help
Are you missing any of these parts?
Ingredients for the rear end (taken from asso_man!s build)
- RPM or Dynotech "World" rear arms (long)
- stock wide chassis
- stock arm mounts
- RC10T hub carriers
- B4 hub bearings
- B4 inner hub spacers (do not forget these, otherwise the wheels will bind when bolted)
- B4 CVD's
- B4 outer axle spacers
- B4 rims
I figured out how to use factory arms, rc10 mip cvd bones,b4 axles, 10t hubs, b4 outside axle spacer. As for the wide chassis? It's a A stamp gold pan, so I don't think its wide chassis.
mdwaeracer wrote:I figured out how to use factory arms, rc10 mip cvd bones,b4 axles, 10t hubs, b4 outside axle spacer. As for the wide chassis? It's a A stamp gold pan, so I don't think its wide chassis.
That's an old recipe of me that worked quite good for an enduro race, but in the long-term, we have found that the RPM RC10GT rear hubs combined with B44 rear CVD's is the best solution. You can solve all of your problems by tweaking one thing at a time, but you'll never manage to get something really good as you will have to reduce the rear suspension travel to eliminate the binding/falling out CVD's. On top, you can also use the Custom Works 0.125 spacers combiend with low profile wheel nuts to clear the Dynotech arms from the rear rims. What shock are you using? A picture would tell a thousand words here...
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I'm running Kyosho Velvets front and rear. Atlas shock towers front and rear. Factory arms front and rear. B4 axle,Rc1o mip dog bone,rc10t hub,stealth Trans.
Does anyone know if the diff halves from b4 will work with 2.25 trans. If so are they same width as the stock at the outdrives?
I love this thread. My local track is pretty small, I've been itching to build an old school RC10 to run in the buggy class. I honestly think I could hold my own against 90% of the guys out there with some 20 year old tech if built right. Thanks for the inspiration
the b4/b44 hubs are set out too far in relation to the hinge pin, compared too the gt hubs. the bones won't reach the trans outdrives with using the klein arm/b4 hub setup.
B4 and B44 uses same hubs?
When using B44 bones and B44 hubs, bones are too short then? What about B4 CVD and hubs?
I've undestand that B4 CVD is bit longer than B44?
b4 and b44 use the same rear hubs and wheels(and arms, I think too). The difference in length of the bone is due to the fact that the B44 outdrives are wider than the B4.
If I were you, I'd pick a rear hub that works with your cvd's in hand, and design the arm to fill the gap with the wheels set to the maximum ROAR length, of 250mm. If you use B4 wheels, the arms will be longer than stock. If you use rc10/B2/B3 style wheels, then the arm will somewhere in between that and stock length.
cedric asked in one of the nats threads about getting info on the cars, which i think is a cool idea. so, i thought we could post our stuff up like they would in rcca of the winner's buggy/truck. here's mine...........
CAR: RC10 Graphite Team...
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I think thats awesome that you ran a frog, bngiles, an original frog was my first r/c car!
It was a Price Club/Costco Special, which came with an awful two-stick futaba radio.
I can't believe a company sold shock towers for retrofitting real...
At our local track we decided to start running legends again, but with an easy to grasp amended set of rules that differ from the Legend Spec rules from years past. Our constraints are 27T stock motor, 4 cell NIMH batteries and Spec tires (any spec...
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Here's a little help on your motors. Make sure the bushings/bearings are fully seated in the can and endbell. A wood dowel works great for this. For brushes use Trinity's 4505 brush with a red / green spring combo. Red on the positive. When you put...
How do you embed a video on your personal website and have the player show a thumbnail of it? Like YouTube vids do? When we attach the player to our site it just shows a black box.
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Can't pick on him if he's not here. Well, I can it just isnt as much fun. :mrgreen:
My gas furnace is only igniting intermittently. The Integrated fan control is functioning normally, there is no issue with the blower(vent) motor. Resetting the gas control valve has helped sometimes, but not every time. Does this sound like an...
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Troubleshooting a faulty flame sensor probe and ignitor is easy enough; if the furnace fires up briefly, then shuts off, it's the flame sensor that's the culprit--because it doesn't detect that it's turned on already. It's intended to keep from...
Does the hub for the Dominator have the same screw spacing as a RC10L rear wheel?
I hope so... :wink:
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I have a few 10L rear wheels, gold aluminum BBS style. I can machine them to whatever width I would need to fit the OE track width and tire width of the Dominator . Seems that the adapters on the Dom uses the yoke measurements, so at this point I...
Picked up this very clean motor recently which I'm certain isn't an actual Trinity Ex-Tech motor. From my understanding Ex-Tech motors had gray cans, gray Epic endbells (some possibly purple) and gold brush hoods.