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I had another thread showing off a pin routed 12e chassis and had a few interested in seeing how the pin router is made and how it works. Figure it is worth starting a fresh thread for those that didn't see the other thread.

Pin routers are great for following a template or old part. I for example had a 12e chassis that was drilled and ugly. Decided to build this router to copy it.

First, a basic router table. The big hole by the bit is just begging to mess up your cut. I made a 1/8 lexan top with a smaller hole for the bit to protrude thru. You want the bit just high enough to cut the material your routing and NO higher or you will cut up your template



The pin I used is a drill bit. I cut it off and installed a collar so it won't drop too far and get into the router bit. This is just to make things easier while in use, you still need to secure the pin tightly. I use setscrews.


The pin holder is just some alumninum stock I had lying around. Drilled for pin and cross drilled for setscrews.



Here is the part I will be copying and the raw material. Use thick double sided tape. Notice the space between the old and new part. You need this gap.




That's it for now. I tried to route this piece but the bit is very dull and it chipped it. Carbide bits are necessary and don't last very long. This is a big expense at $18 from home depot. I use a 1/8" bit to match the pin. If you use a smaller or larger bit make sure the pin is sized the same. The larger the bit the larger the smallest radius it can cut so plan accordingly.

Here is the 12e Chassis:
And the chassis....

I've used flush trim bits on my router table for years but you are limited to the size of the bit you can find. Mine works well but wont get as tight into the corners as yours will. I like your idea of using the backside of a drill bit as a guide. I'll have to try that! And similar to the flush trim bits with the bearings on top like I use (for building custom car audio and upholstery applications), you can vary the size of the bearing on top, or in your case, the drill bit size (guide) to enlarge or shrink the copy of the object being copied.

Thanks for posting up the tutorial. I now understand much better how this is working. Will have to give it a try.

That is a nice how to write up. I have done the depo router bit they are junk, Amana router bit are 2x the price but you can get 3 or 4 times the use. I have used a 1/4 flush trim bit in a trim router with good luck . The Cnc guys might have some good ideas on tooling
Steve

Very nice explanation and pics, thank you so much for posting this!

if they are 1/4" shank, try mcmaster-carr for carbide burrs, single cut or double cut. reasonable priced and they are industrial quality.

jwscab wrote:if they are 1/4" shank, try mcmaster-carr for carbide burrs, single cut or double cut. reasonable priced and they are industrial quality.

Good to know, I need more g10 from them anyway!

I found some 1/8 shank for a steal. They were removed from service in the PCB industry but still in great shape but its hard to find a GOOD 1/4 to 1/8 collet reducer. Most are a single split adapter and cause the bits to wobble. I think I have one located we will see how it goes when it arrives

For the 1/4 to 1/8 th bushing. Try woodcraft. If there is a wobble in the router do not push the bit or bushing all,the way down in the chuck of the router. It may be the router, what router are you using

Steve

Just a basic craftsman router. The 1/4 bit works great as far as tolerance, I'm just going by what I have read on the bushing. I received it today and hope to chuck it up and see how the new bits work out.

Very nice work man, I like seeing stuff like this. Shows the many ways you can make your own parts without having $20K machines.

Jake

IMO it looks a little more realistic too. Inspecting my 12i chassis it appears to be routered too, and composite craft has a facebook pic showing them using one

Pin router V2.0 is in progress. Trim router which will accept 1/8 collets instead of the adapter I've been using, and had an epiphany to make a pin arm out of a Afco control arm. Should provide a dead solid movable arm to make cutting inside areas easier.

Pin routers were very common in the hey-day era of RC, they were an easy and simple way to produce parts.

I studied the pic that composite craft posted of their pin router and just made it more my size. I think the new one will prove to be a lot more precise as my pin now can be flexed with too much pressure. It takes a steady hand.

I mean, sure, if you've got an afco a-arm just lyin' around.....