The Official "What is it?" Thread

[TRX-1-3]

Traxxas long front shocks part number 4760 looks like traxxas have very resently deleted them from production but they’re still around on eBay etc. they were originally produced in blue ano then when to a light grey hard and with blue caps on the trx-1 and blue eagle onwards and more resently the dark grey bodies. The rear x-long shocks th match are part # 4761.

The “big bore” versions are part numbers 2660 and 2661 and where on the trx3, tcp ,SRT onwards they have a stepped cap and a step on the bottom of the cylinder where the seals go in aswell.

Franks eyelets look to be kyosho maybe? Definitely not original traxxas

The last set I bought had the gold shafts in the rears but not the fronts was really disappointing

Well, technically *pushes up glasses on nose*, the first iteration of the "long" shocks were the gold anodized rears (1660) on the Bullet.

Also the 1660's were on all four corners of the Eagle, then they went 1960 (blue anodized) for the Blue Eagle and 1960 and 2761 for the original release TRX-1, then went 47 series for the hard anno for the "Worlds" TRX-1 thru LS-II , then 26 series "bigbores" for the TRX-3 thru TCP/SRT as @Retro rc lined out previously.

[jwscab]

I'll push my glasses up even a bit further and say that there were several variations of the blue color found on the early shocks. I have a set(sic) of 3 shocks that are almost turquoise, which I believe were on the nitro buggy/truck versions. I'll likely never find a matching shock to complete this 'set'. I'll put up a photo as soon as I can.

[klavy69]

I'll likely never find a matching shock to complete this 'set'. I'll put up a photo as soon as I can.

You just haven't asked the right people...

[dldiaz]

This is not a "what is it", but a "why is it..."

I have been struggling with a B4 slipper clutch - it slips a lot even when cranked down tight.
- I am pretty sure it is built correctly.
- It does run (i.e. it is not a loose-mess like if it were built wrong), but it slips more than I want on full-throttle take-off.

I tried a different set of pads and basically the same thing.

I guess my question is, can the slipper plates themselves go bad?
Like would they get glazed-over and not grip at some point?


P.S. I did clean the plates real good with motor spray - but still slips...

[GoMachV]

silly question but often overlooked- do you know for fact that it isnt the diff slipping? When you hold both tires and spin the slipper gear, the nut MUST not move. If it turns with the gear then its the diff slipping.

[JK Racing]

This is not a "what is it", but a "why is it..."

I have been struggling with a B4 slipper clutch - it slips a lot even when cranked down tight.
- I am pretty sure it is built correctly.
- It does run (i.e. it is not a loose-mess like if it were built wrong), but it slips more than I want on full-throttle take-off.

I had this on an RC10 with B4 top shaft. Found that I need a spacer between the nut & spring. It 'looked' locked down, but the nut bottomed out before putting enough pressure on the plate to prevent slip.

[dldiaz]

silly question but often overlooked- do you know for fact that it isnt the diff slipping? When you hold both tires and spin the slipper gear, the nut MUST not move. If it turns with the gear then its the diff slipping.

I am 99% sure it is not the Diff., but I will check specifically if the nut turns - Thanks for the tip!

I had this on an RC10 with B4 top shaft. Found that I need a spacer between the nut & spring. It 'looked' locked down, but the nut bottomed out before putting enough pressure on the plate to prevent slip.

It seems to compress the spring pretty far down.

But you know what is weird - it's almost like it slips MORE as I tighten it way down?!?

[jwscab]

Is this on a re-release case or recent top shaft? Since the re-release ones definitely had machining problems, it's possible it's clearing the motor plate but riding on the plastic of the trans case and preventing you from getting a proper tension.

There are a couple of pad materials but if you scuff them up, none should really be glazed.

[dldiaz]

Is this on a re-release case or recent top shaft? Since the re-release ones definitely had machining problems, it's possible it's clearing the motor plate but riding on the plastic of the trans case and preventing you from getting a proper tension.

There are a couple of pad materials but if you scuff them up, none should really be glazed.

It is actually a T4 stadium truck - all stock parts from a T4 kit.
- Everything rolls smooth/free, seems all good except that slipper won't bite?!

[jwscab]

That is weird. Try scuffing the pads with some sandpaper

[RC10th]

I had the same thoughts as Jeff, sure it's not the diff slipping instead ?

[dldiaz]

silly question but often overlooked- do you know for fact that it isnt the diff slipping? When you hold both tires and spin the slipper gear, the nut MUST not move. If it turns with the gear then its the diff slipping.

Well, if that was a silly question, I am the silly guy that needed to hear it...

I got home from work and took another look - sure enough the slipper nut would turn with the spur gear.
- I snugged up the diff and problem solved!

Thank you very much for the tip!


Jeez, I really thought the sound of a slipping differential should be more harsh / screaching - this was a smooth sounding slip?!?

[Incredible_Serious]

I have this exact issue with a Losi XXX-SCT I'm in the middle of rebuilding.... built it up, tested it, slipping noise and no drive. Tightened everything up on the slipper, and nothing. Did similar diff tests, and they showed my diff is slipping, not the slipper. So pulled the (XXX-based) diff apart.....



















...and that's where it has sat for the last 4 - 6 months, while I work out what parts I need to replace, try and find them, get shocked by the price, and lose all interest. Bit of a shame, really, as it's a nice-looking truck, with all the good upgrades included...