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I've read a few posts on here about painting chassis. Anybody considered just getting the thing re-anodized? I had one done blue for my runner and I have one getting done HPI purple right now. It's not all that expensive and you don't have to worry about any of the issues that go along with painting something. If it's a matter of not knowing where to get it done, just PM me and I can hook you up with the guy that does mine. He can even do hard anodize for you worlds car guys.

Anyone have a lead to where I can purchase the little hex with ball end for making the front sway bars (that solders to the piano wire). I think it is Dubro but having trouble locating some.

Also, weren't those steering links ( black ones) called Rocket City Ball ends back then?

Powder coating is all over the place With crazy cool colors,finding a good anodizer with a close enough gold color is a little harder...If you know of a place...let us know

Ruffy wrote:Anyone have a lead to where I can purchase the little hex with ball end for making the front sway bars (that solders to the piano wire). I think it is Dubro but having trouble locating some.

Also, weren't those steering links ( black ones) called Rocket City Ball ends back then?

I found this link from Tower while searching in another thread:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXD896&P=7

Awesome LTO_Dave, that the one I am looking for!
Muchas Gracias

Does anyone know what shock bodies the Box-Art buggy had?

I heard somewhere someone had to buy the short front shocks for it. So are they the long rears 1.32 and short fronts, .56 (memory)?

Ruffy wrote:Does anyone know what shock bodies the Box-Art buggy had?

I heard somewhere someone had to buy the short front shocks for it. So are they the long rears 1.32 and short fronts, .56 (memory)?

That would be correct!

Thanks, I got lucky as I just happen to have a new set of the short front new in package, with the old Edinger address on the header card. I must have ordered these when I got 1st picked up by AE to use on one of my 4WD cars back then, but never did.

Cool, but remember that you will have to strip them if you want a correct replica. It would be a pity to strip new ones, especially with the Edinger tag!

argh, yeah you're right. The ole strip down of the anodizing.

Anyone know where I can score some fiberglass sheet, around .094" to .125 thick, that looks like the light green old shock tower stuff?

Joe finally found one for me here: http://www.eplastics.com/Plastic/G10_FR4_Glass_Epoxy_Sheet , it looks very similar to the old stuff, here's a comparison picture (old stuff above, "eplastic" sheet below):

Yeah, I don't know if it matters, but I put in the comments when I ordered it to 'please send the lightest yellowish/green material possible', so either this is just what they had in stock, or they looked at the comment and were able to provide the lightest stuff they had.

Does anyone know with any certainty what size set screws are used on the aluminum shock collars seen on the box-art car?
1-72, 2-56, 4-40, or other?

Here is the reply to my question ( Thanks Steve! ):

Hi Ruffy. Nice to hear from you. I hope you are doing well. I have the original RC10 with me right here in my hands. At some point we changed out the car when the plastic spring adjuster mold was completed. So unfortunately the aluminum collars had been gone for many years now. Normally at that time I used 4-40 set screws for most all applications like that. All I could do was look at the picture on the box just like you did. The set screws do look smaller than 4-40. They could be 2-56. They for sure are not 1-72 set screws. You could always make them with 2-56 set screws and if it doesn’t look right then drill them out to make it 4-40. I wish I could be more help for you, sorry. Good luck with your replica car.

Curtis

very nice...