My old-new gold tub project...
Posted: Sun Oct 03, 2010 10:54 am
I have been collecting parts in a box for years--ever since I first saw the Siebenelch photos--and I figured it was about time I started to try to put these parts together. I still needed a few parts here and there, but about a month ago, I dug out the box o' parts and started working.
It's a pretty straight-forward build, using a standard used A chassis, late model RC10 basic parts, a worked-over Stealth using ceramic bearings throughout with a B4 top shaft and slipper assembly. The sprung weight includes mostly B4 chassis parts including hubs, front axles, spindle carriers, spindles and bearings. Linkage is all Lunsford Punisher with Losi HD low profile ball cups. Rear axles are B44 CVDs for a direct fit in the Stealth outdrives. Carbon items are all Atlas Worlds replicas, and though I would really like them to be at least a 3mm multidirectional weave, they are pretty nice pieces. Shocks are Kyosho Velvets in 30/38mm typical 2wd buggy lengths, using internal limiters in the rear. Steering is an original Team Losi/RPS unit, with a custom stand-off to raise the bellcrank mount up for better steering linkage angle.
Wheels are straight from a B4, and right off the shelf at the local hobby shop. Tires are mock ups for now, while I await the Jconcepts Bar Codes front and rear. Electronics in the car are a Futaba s9550 shortie servo that I use in a lot of my race applications, and a Speed Passion 10.5t brushless geared 72/30 using the new B4.1 "brushless" spur gear. Battery is my old faithful original Orion 4800 LiPo.
Still to come, eventually, are a Tekin RS speedo, Spektrum 3-channel micro receiver and a PT to round out the electronics. Body and body mount system are still in progress, and a 6" Associated flat wing on Kyosho RB5 wing mounts sit waiting to be installed.
Like I said, pretty simple, straight-forward build for the most part. No plans to chop down the sides like everyone else seems to be so intent on doing, but maybe some other old school machining to come. Definitely plans for some custom anodizing touches when everything is where it should be, though.
Gonna take better photos outside later today, but for now, you get the indoor shop floor shots...
Enjoy!
It's a pretty straight-forward build, using a standard used A chassis, late model RC10 basic parts, a worked-over Stealth using ceramic bearings throughout with a B4 top shaft and slipper assembly. The sprung weight includes mostly B4 chassis parts including hubs, front axles, spindle carriers, spindles and bearings. Linkage is all Lunsford Punisher with Losi HD low profile ball cups. Rear axles are B44 CVDs for a direct fit in the Stealth outdrives. Carbon items are all Atlas Worlds replicas, and though I would really like them to be at least a 3mm multidirectional weave, they are pretty nice pieces. Shocks are Kyosho Velvets in 30/38mm typical 2wd buggy lengths, using internal limiters in the rear. Steering is an original Team Losi/RPS unit, with a custom stand-off to raise the bellcrank mount up for better steering linkage angle.
Wheels are straight from a B4, and right off the shelf at the local hobby shop. Tires are mock ups for now, while I await the Jconcepts Bar Codes front and rear. Electronics in the car are a Futaba s9550 shortie servo that I use in a lot of my race applications, and a Speed Passion 10.5t brushless geared 72/30 using the new B4.1 "brushless" spur gear. Battery is my old faithful original Orion 4800 LiPo.
Still to come, eventually, are a Tekin RS speedo, Spektrum 3-channel micro receiver and a PT to round out the electronics. Body and body mount system are still in progress, and a 6" Associated flat wing on Kyosho RB5 wing mounts sit waiting to be installed.
Like I said, pretty simple, straight-forward build for the most part. No plans to chop down the sides like everyone else seems to be so intent on doing, but maybe some other old school machining to come. Definitely plans for some custom anodizing touches when everything is where it should be, though.
Gonna take better photos outside later today, but for now, you get the indoor shop floor shots...
Enjoy!
Thanks.
I used Associated shock shafts for the inner hinge pins front and rear to use one locknut on the rear side of the hinge pin. Four less E-clips to fall out/lose and it makes the pins a little easier to get in and out. It also allows you to use Unobtanium pins for a little more resistance to bending in impacts.