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soniccj5 wrote:

Soncho Ponza wrote:COOL ideas This one is fun to watch

It certainly is!

Would it be possible to cut the top off the front stealth to save room? Or would that weaken it too much?

if you cut out the top part of the front stealth.....then you need to use some materials to cover up the defect..... which I think is not the best solution.....I prefer to keep it intact.....

flipwils11 wrote:Wow this looks really impressive. Never would have thought to use an entire Stealth trans up front and mount the case like that. Very nice.

the brilliant idea of using a front stealth is from Jeff..... the honour belongs to him for sure.... I made some minor modifications only.......

now comes to the front hubs..... as the original RC10 nose plate has a kick-up angle of 30 degrees...... I need to do something to counterbalance this ......

I chose some modern material..... the Durango DEX410 front hub with 21 degrees caster......after that......the overall caster angle would be 9 degrees which I think is more reasonable.....

The Durango parts look great! I wonder what the width will look like with these hubs? The kyosho hubs are the reason I had to make the nose so narrow. Keep us informed!

the next thing to deal with..... is the bellcranks.....

the space under the front stealth is very tight......so I need to use a very thin one .....

gomachv wrote:The Durango parts look great! I wonder what the width will look like with these hubs? The kyosho hubs are the reason I had to make the nose so narrow. Keep us informed!

I have a rough estimation of the front cvd .... it is around 62.5mm long..... which is the same as Kyosho ....

not sure about the exact overall width.....but if it is too narrow.... I can use a thick hexa or rims with more offset...... I need to get the cvd tomorrow.....

minimini wrote:now comes to the front hubs..... as the original RC10 nose plate has a kick-up angle of 30 degrees...... I need to do something to counterbalance this ......

I chose some modern material..... the Durango DEX410 front hub with 21 degrees caster......after that......the overall caster angle would be 9 degrees which I think is more reasonable.....

Are you sure the Durango blocks are 21 degrees by themselves or are they 21 degrees based on the 12 degree kick-up on the DEX410? If they give 21 degrees including the DEX410 kick-up then then they're only adding (or subtracting) 9 degrees of caster. So reversed on the RC10's 30 degree kick-up they would make the overall caster 21 degrees not 9.

It's like with RC10B4 caster blocks...they may say they're 30 degrees but that's based on a 25 degree kick-up....on a 30 degree kick-up they're actually 35 degree blocks.

good job!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Phin wrote:

minimini wrote:now comes to the front hubs..... as the original RC10 nose plate has a kick-up angle of 30 degrees...... I need to do something to counterbalance this ......

I chose some modern material..... the Durango DEX410 front hub with 21 degrees caster......after that......the overall caster angle would be 9 degrees which I think is more reasonable.....

Are you sure the Durango blocks are 21 degrees by themselves or are they 21 degrees based on the 12 degree kick-up on the DEX410? If they give 21 degrees including the DEX410 kick-up then then they're only adding (or subtracting) 9 degrees of caster. So reversed on the RC10's 30 degree kick-up they would make the overall caster 21 degrees not 9.

It's like with RC10B4 caster blocks...they may say they're 30 degrees but that's based on a 25 degree kick-up....on a 30 degree kick-up they're actually 35 degree blocks.

not sure how Durango calculates the caster angle.....but this is the front hub I can find with the biggest caster angle (for 4wd cars) at present moment....... worth to try it anyway .....

I did ask pargu about custom-made a pair of front hubs at 20 degress caster angle.... but he declined....

Nice work on the conversion.. looking forward to more progress...

minimini wrote:

gomachv wrote:The Durango parts look great! I wonder what the width will look like with these hubs? The kyosho hubs are the reason I had to make the nose so narrow. Keep us informed!

I have a rough estimation of the front cvd .... it is around 62.5mm long..... which is the same as Kyosho ....

not sure about the exact overall width.....but if it is too narrow.... I can use a thick hexa or rims with more offset...... I need to get the cvd tomorrow.....

As I am a bit more familiar with Yokomo stuffs....likely I'll throw in Yokomo rims in this car....so I need to look for longer arms which fit the shallow offset Yokomo rims like those in 91' Works........

I'm doing this too

Big thanks to Mini and Gomachv for inspiring me

Mine will use Kyosho front hubs, knuckles and shafts - I'll start a new thread when everything arrives!

Dan

wydraz wrote:I'm doing this too

Big thanks to Mini and Gomachv for inspiring me

Mine will use Kyosho front hubs, knuckles and shafts - I'll start a new thread when everything arrives!

Dan

yes.... everyone can do their own version of stealth 4.....

Nice work .............

as suggested by Jeff..... the front end is quite narrow using the RPM Team car arms plus the durango hubs..... so I changed to Jake's nylon arms......

when using the Yokomo rims..... the width would be 240mm (both F & R).....