Fixing up the Frankentruck(s), the fleet of them

[Frankentruck]

I bought this awesome-ish frankentruck off of ebay. It was advertised as a Losi GTX, but I think I've determined it's really an RC10T3 with some team / factory parts that has a new chassis and the transmission has been swapped into a mid-motor position. The shock springs are too short, but that's an easy fix. However the diff outdrives are aluminum and pretty worn. I think it needs (or would take) 9370 and 9375 outdrives, but those seem to be scarce. I'd love to get some steel parts to replace the aluminum, but maybe those don't exist. I'm also thinking about going back to an original plastic chassis and rear motor position, but mainly because I plan to use it and the carbon fiber chassis it has is so shiny and nice looking right now. Maybe I just need to add a bumper and skid plates and use this chassis. Not sure they made a bumper for a T3 though so I might need to look for some bumper blank material.

So, on the outdrives... any thoughts?

[coxbros1]

cant help on outdrives but dig the chassis...use it

[Frankentruck]

Oh, I like that Turbo Optima avatar. I used to run one with a belt drive conversion and some A&L monster truck wheels.

For my running gear, I'm going to use my old trusty Novak T-1X and receiver. For my brushed motor, I have a nearly new Trinity X-Star stock (currently in a Pantera boat) and a couple of modifieds I picked up, a Reedy brown label and a supposed Black Magic marine motor. I used to drool over the RCCA ads for the 100,000 rpm Black Magic drag motor, so I thought I'd give this one a try. The motors will get Deans connectors which is what I prefer for brushed motors. They just happened to both come with Sermos connectors which I typically use for batteries.

My son is likely going to be getting a brushed motor Traxxas Rustler. I need to make this thing comparable speed, but right now that's a shot in the dark because I've never seen a Rustler run. I might end up buying a Traxxas 12T Titan motor just to make sure the 'fun with son' time is relatively equal.

[juicedcoupe]

OMy son is likely going to be getting a brushed motor Traxxas Rustler. I need to make this thing comparable speed, but right now that's a shot in the dark because I've never seen a Rustler run. I might end up buying a Traxxas 12T Titan motor just to make sure the 'fun with son' time is relatively equal.

If you buy a new brushed Rustler, it should come with a Titan. Most of them fail quickly.

When it comes time to replace it, keep in mind that it is a 550. The XL-5 esc is only rated down to 15T with a 540. IMHO, a 17-18T is typically pretty good for those trucks. If running high mah batteries for extended run times, I might even consider a 20-22T.

[Frankentruck]

OMy son is likely going to be getting a brushed motor Traxxas Rustler. I need to make this thing comparable speed, but right now that's a shot in the dark because I've never seen a Rustler run. I might end up buying a Traxxas 12T Titan motor just to make sure the 'fun with son' time is relatively equal.

If you buy a new brushed Rustler, it should come with a Titan. Most of them fail quickly.

When it comes time to replace it, keep in mind that it is a 550. The XL-5 esc is only rated down to 15T with a 540. IMHO, a 17-18T is typically pretty good for those trucks. If running high mah batteries for extended run times, I might even consider a 20-22T.

Yeah, he'd likely be buying a new Rustler. I hadn't read up on them much, but the local independent hobby shop has several Traxxas RCs on their counter and I looked one over. They seem to me like you get a lot for $169 with the Rustler, although he hasn't bought one yet. I'm still thinking about a vintage RC10T (or electric converted GT) for him, but I want to make sure it's something I can get some parts for after it gets beat on a little. My worn outdrive issue with this T3 makes me a bit more cautious about his purchase. I scoped out the 7667 and 7668 outdrive parts as being available and cheap, but didn't initially realize they wouldn't work for a T3 diff.

We will likely be running 3000mah, 7.2 NiMH batteries. They're an easy size and shape to work with for multiple vehicle options, have reasonable charge time, etc. The 12T 550 motor still kind of blows my mind. My past days of anything above a 27T 540 stock motor is a 'big league' motor has trouble fathoming this closed endbell 12T thing being a factory motor. Closed endbell motors are supposed to have weak output from the time they are new but still run for ever (if you want to use them that long).

[THEYTOOKMYTHUMB]

If you buy a new brushed Rustler, it should come with a Titan. Most of them fail quickly.

The Titans I have had have been pretty much indestructible. I haven't ran one in a while so maybe it changed.

[juicedcoupe]

If you buy a new brushed Rustler, it should come with a Titan. Most of them fail quickly.

The Titans I have had have been pretty much indestructible. I haven't ran one in a while so maybe it changed.

My son's lasted about a month. When I went to the hobby store, he said that he couldn't get them in fast enough at the time (right after that Christmas). I put a Helion motor in instead.

There is all kinds of negative feedback on them all over the web. But I do hear that some people have good luck.


BTW, my son's didn’t burn up. One of the brushes came out of the tension arm.

[THEYTOOKMYTHUMB]

I raced Slash dirt oval for a while, but it was about 5+ years ago. They were all box stock and the funnest racing I've ever been a part of. The motors lasted forever. Like I said though, 5+ years ago so they may have gone to crap since then. So many things happen that way, that's for sure. I'm not a Traxxas fan exactly, but that was fun racing! It was nice not having to spend all kinds of money to keep up. I miss it, but too many other things going on right now, just not enough time.

[RC10th]

The 550 12T Titan is not comparable to a normal 540 12T motor. Think Traxxas Slash speed, most are pretty good and trouble free but I've seen a few that have just died for no reason. They are good for just running around but if you want decent speed sticking to brushed (and your ESC can handle it) something in the 14T - 17T range is a good option.

Otherwise the Hobbywing EZRun 9T brushless combo is a good cheap reliable brushless set up that has respectable performance.

[Frankentruck]

I'm not worried about my ESC handling whatever brushed motor I connect to it. That's what Novak made it for. But I am concerned about outdrive durability. I've always had steel, not aluminum. If there were a Thorp or Robinson diff with steel outdrives, that would be a great option. But I'm sure that's just wishful thinking for a vintage RC.

[juicedcoupe]

There are a couple sets of used outdrives on ebay right now, as well as some complete buggy transmissions.

[RC10th]

Have a look up for Thunder Tiger Phoenix ST/AT-10 as they are basically T3/B3 "copies" from when Thunder Tiger bought Team Associated, parts should be much cheaper.... The 2.40 diff makes things fun as it was a fairly short run.

Ie a quick search came up with this... which is only one side but you get the idea

https://www.ebay.com/p/1800666738?iid=183977526093


Or Associated parts

https://www.ebay.com/c/1224577396


They are out there, just getting harder and harder to find

[Frankentruck]

Thanks for the tips. I wasn't aware of Thunder Tiger. I have seen the Associated parts on eBay, but am trying to avoid paying ridiculous prices if I can.

[RS Chris]

Have a look up for Thunder Tiger Phoenix ST/AT-10 as they are basically T3/B3 "copies" from when Thunder Tiger bought Team Associated, parts should be much cheaper.... The 2.40 diff makes things fun as it was a fairly short run.

Ie a quick search came up with this... which is only one side but you get the idea

https://www.ebay.com/p/1800666738?iid=183977526093


Or Associated parts

https://www.ebay.com/c/1224577396


They are out there, just getting harder and harder to find

The MRP Ripper is also a choice for parts. About 90% the same as T3.

[Frankentruck]

There are a couple sets of used outdrives on ebay right now, as well as some complete buggy transmissions.

The more I look at outdrive prices, the more tempting a used transmission is.

A few questions. Are the black outdrives steel? That's what I'm assuming. Also, a question on the slipper. Mine doesn't have it, the spur gear is just attached directly to the shaft. Is it desirable to have a functional slipper? If so, are there any downsides to using a slipper, other than I'd have to buy the parts?