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Last year I picked up a rather beaten Losi XX with a clean transmission and hydra drive. This year: I got a sorry-looking XXT for spare parts to fix up the XX. But after cleaning the XXT up, it was in better shape than expected and I just restored it stealing parts of the XX. So what to do with the ...

Chewbacca wrote: ↑Mon Sep 16, 2019 4:47 pm These are mine, I actually have 2 pairs.

These will come in handy soon.

Those are CRP driveshafts for the Scorpion. Would kind of be a waste to use them on a WOIN RC10.

I'll leave it to those much smarter than myself but you'll need to know the "pitch circle"

Maybe you could have a look at this site: https://www.engineersedge.com/gear_formula.htm You can calculate the center distance if you know the number of teeth and the diametral pitch. As an example, using the equation C=(Ng+Np)/2P, the center distance for a 48DP 20t pinion and its 26t gear would be ...

Now you know how to make them look even more vintage!

You've got a couple sets of adapters there. The hex piece is to convert rc10 to kyosho or hpi superstar, a few others. The yokomo adapter is for yokomo wheels on a kyosho.

Quote: “That's interesting Tony. I've never even considered using another manufacturer's diff. “ As soon as I get confirmation that Schumacher uses 48 dp I might go forward with my project. Well, don't like bearing bad news but... In regards to the V3 Ball Diff KD / Laydown / KR and similar gear di...

just use a 10 mm reamer. you could use it in a drill press and it will center just fine. you might have to modify the reamer though, to remove much of the leading chamfer, because the bearing bores are pretty narrow. how wide is the 10mm bearing vs the 3/8" bearing? narrower or wider? that coul...

Yeah you will want to fixture the case to a block of wood or something to hold it in position. You could actually just spin the drill quill by hand once you have it centered to make the cut. Basically you use the drill press to keep things aligned

Hot racing makes a really decent shock but sometimes they are hard to find. The regular hot racing shock is not nearly as good and seems to be more readily available. The ones I use come with both a diaphragm and a oring, and the cap has a bleeder so you can set them up either way. I run with the di...

Just tried Fastrax shocks and they are really nice threaded body shocks with double O rings and double PTFE guides , excellent value .

The Traxxas Ultra shocks aren't bad. They do require the slightly larger Traxxas or Losi springs as well but those are easy enough. They are available in several lengths as well. However, even the long (shortest common length) is about the length of a truck front, maybe a little shorter than an AE 1...

That might be a Bolink body, the front fender mounted turn signals are unique. Personally.. I would keep that body your friend made..just clean and touch it up. Give the chassis a good restoration, replacing broken/worn parts.. but keep the original body.

I kinda think it is a kamtec, first thought was Tamiya but doesn’t have the pressing for the emblem on the hood, and not sure you could get it without body mount holes. If it is the kamtec it fits the chassis a lot better than I would have thought. https://www.kamtec.co.uk/p/volkswagen-beetle-body-s...

My guess is DeltaPlastik.

https://www-deltaplastik-it.translate.goog/it/modellismo-r-c/scala-1-10/carrozzerie-200mm/0045-maggiolino/?_x_tr_sl=it&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=en&_x_tr_pto=sc