RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Synthetic is better all around. Walmart has the best price for mobile 1 in my area. I change oil about 6000 miles or every year whatever comes first.

As a mechanic with 29 years under my belt yes synthetic is best , it maintains its lubricating quality's longer and is more thermally stable , if there is one thing that has changed the life of an engine from 80.000 miles to the current expected 150.000 miles then its the oil . Way back in the 1960'...

Synthetic oils have better cleaning properties and "can" create oil leaks in older engines by cleaning away built up gunk that could be preventing a leak. I run Royal Purple Synthetic in all my junk (old stuff) and swear by it, although it is on the upper end of the price scale. Luckily yo...

I run a 2000 Honda Civic, with it's patented inbuilt Oil Recycling System.... you need to "change" the oil every 5000km or so, as if you don't there's no oil left in it!!!

Sorry that doesn't help the 'synthetic vs palm oil' debate...

Alex

I'd take into consideration past service history and operating conditions. A synthetic oil doesn't necessarily translate to a doubled interval and if you have been religious with past preventative maintenance, there should be very little sludge build up. AND considering it's an '003, the gasket mate...

Halgar, I run synthetics in all of my daily drivers. I'm not one to get new vehicles unless they are needed. I generally end up scrapping my decommissioned ones but its because of just worn out drive trains vs. bad motors now. Once I started using synthetics it brought my average decommissioning up ...

I've heard, many years ago... once you use synthetic oil your not supposed to ever use conventional oil in that motor again.... In my work truck 2012 f350... I only use motorcraft synthetic oil, and the onboard computer says to change oil at aprox 7000-7200 miles... it has 149,000 on it so far Just ...

I do build cars/hotrods/etc as a hobby, but I don't really detail other than the usual wash and wax and vaccum, once the cars are cleaned up. For the hunks of junks and wrecks that I pull out of the yard covered with lots and lots of crap/mildew/mold, etc, I use a few things. These are all GM vehicl...

Getting a proper tool for removing the panel fixings really helps , they just took like screwdrivers with a V in the tip . the other trick is to do it in a warm environment , plastic trim panels are really brittle in cold weather and some of those poppers are really tight so do it on a warm day or i...

Just beware, some cars throw a check engine (airbag) code if you remove the seats and need to be reset. As far as exterior/interior car care products I swear by Meguiars detailing products. I would avoid Armor-All on the dash, they got a bad wrap due to cracked dashboards in the 80's, apparantly the...

The oil life monitoring systems use various parameters to determine "bingo mileage" and these methods vary by manufacterer and have evolved somewhat since their introduction. Some are mileage and / or time based only. Others incorporate algorithms that use inputs such as engine temps, revo...

I find that before adding any type of cleaner to really grungy GM carpets is going in the vehicle with a stiff brush and have a compressor with a air nozzle. Brush the crap out of the carpet and blow the shit out of it with the compressed air. It loosens the deep grime and kind of revives the short ...

Pull fuel pump fuse

I used to have to do this as part of a testing process and here's a little trick that might help , if the key has a security transponder chip embedded in the plastic part of the key then this should work , wrap the plastic part of the key in tin foil ,baking foil,pie tray etc , this isolates the tra...

RC10th wrote: ↑Sat May 04, 2019 8:03 pm Pull fuel pump fuse

+1.