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Lighter fluid will turn the adhesive loose without damaging the paint. I've used it with paper towels and q-tips to clean up edges.

R6cowboy wrote: ↑Fri Oct 15, 2021 4:17 pm much helpful soldering jig

I have the same one, its very handy.

https://youtu.be/B_O5VW7A0Uw

BTW, the WLToys 144001 is at $83.99 now. Anyone think the $36.99 price might have been a mishap? I don't know. Amazon does similar things. Certain items will be marked way down for a limited time. I've bought a few items that tripled in price within a day. Lowes does it as well. A friend of mine ha...

Those motors with lots of timing were designed for short duration races, in fairly low load vehicles. They ran very hot and were rough on brushes and comms. The tabs are already loosened on the can. Assuming that it isn't already trashed, I'd take it apart, freshen it up, and put it back to factory ...

Got the rear back together and threw in a Trinity motor as well. Screenshot_20211020-194606_Gallery.jpg On to the front, and more cleaning. I don't know if the front was homemade or just poorly machined, but it suits this car perfectly. The steering blocks are actually from a RC10, that have been cu...

I threw on some BSR spec tires for the time being. Since I plan on doing some parking lot running, I'm thinking that some CRC wheels and rubber F1 tires sounds like a good idea. Screenshot_20211020-194652_Gallery.jpg Screenshot_20211020-194637_Gallery.jpg So, it will probably sit like this for a whi...

Those motors with lots of timing were designed for short duration races, in fairly low load vehicles. They ran very hot and were rough on brushes and comms. Thanks, that makes sense. Would an RC10 have been considered a low-load vehicle? While I'm sure that people ran them in off-road cars, I'd pro...

The only undertray that I'm aware of matches the aluminum chassis shape, not any specific body. Do you know who makes that undertray? https://www.ebay.com/itm/team-associated-rc10-classic-chassis-protectors-MADE-IN-AMERICA-clear-paintable-/203046018060?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m468...

Just an observation. To me, your choice of electronics seems out of place for a basher. Unless your gearing is extremely mild, a 13T modified seems hot for bashing in a truck. The esc also seems mild for the application. Even though it is "technically" within its ratings, bashing in a truc...

Just search for RC10 chassis. The cars and trucks used the same pan. Any of the black pans should have the correct holes.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/associated-rc10-buggy-truck-chassis-133-/144215691840?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

Got the esc and receiver installed. I didn't wire the servo because this isn't the one that will be used (I need a different servo saver). I don't normally use the Anderson/Sermos connectors for batteries or directly wire the esc to the motor but it seemed right on this car. Screenshot_20211024-2043...

...and the other end of the technology spectrum is the 2DR Attack 2 stick radio, with R162JE receiver and Ch 90 crystals. I have no delusions (yet) of being able to competently drive Masami style with this radio. I started out with a Futaba twin stick and I still can't drive one competently. :lol:

My daily job is at a refinery. Been there for ~15 years. Before that, I spent 7 years at a neighboring chemical plant. I also play around with real cars, mostly street/strip and small tire drag cars. While I still have my car, its been on the back-burner since covid. - I have a new engine sitting on...

Yeah, but the white piece that he circled looks like part of the servo saver.