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RPM made some for the B/T4 and SCT that used 1/2" bearings, which are only slightly under 13mm.

If 11mm would work, you have Traxxas options.

I can't speak to all of them but many are plastic and can't be dyed.

R6cowboy wrote: ↑Tue Nov 12, 2024 2:47 pm I could settle with black aluminum caps on the gold shocks though.

If you can find a set, these fit.


https://store.hot-racing.com/product-page/sct156a01-ez-bleeder-shock-caps-1-10-2

big day for me. I've been looking for NOS XL2P for several years. For many years now I've been working on a copy of my exact RC10L setup from the late 80's using mostly new parts. This was the last piece to the puzzle. xl2p_1.jpg xl2p_2.jpg xl2p_3.jpg I watched for a decent deal on one for a while....

I'd be just as suspicious of the 1060. They are known for going in and out of "limp mode". Any time I use one in something that I intend to run hard, it gets a capacitor bank or similar.

Unless you get the caps cheap, a 1080 makes more sense.

Just chance. I have an early Speedworks mod can with a P2K endbell and arm, works fine. I also have a Yokomo mod can with a MVP endbell and arm, also works fine. I have motors with mixed and matched cans and endbells that also work. Different brands. On your stock endbell, does it happen to be one w...

These shocks were originally anodized blue and the caps black. Screenshot_20241127_212127_Samsung Internet.jpg The bulk of the color was stripped with Easy Off. Any remaining color was removed with a brass wire wheel on a Dremel. The main polishing was done with a buffing wheel and white compound. T...

I cut off what I can with mini cutters, then use a flapper wheel on a Dremel. On silver canned motors, I'll polish it a little with a Dremel.

I wanted the esc and servo for my YZ-10, so I decided to replace all the electronics in my B4 with some that seemed more suitable. AE/Airtronics receiver, LRP esc, Reedy servo, and Orion SV2 motor.

Just to follow up on this. I did finally get an Airtronics receiver crystal to try. I used a Futaba transmitter and crystal. -Novak Polaris for Airtronics (with Futaba J plugs!). -Dynamite Micro Pro for Airtronics. Both worked when using an Airtronics receiver crystal on the same frequency. Neither ...

Here is one of my mutts. It identifies as a 10T. A stamp pan, previously modified. 10T nose, bulkhead, bellcranks, towers, and rear arms. Injora/Axial transmission and ECX shafts. B4 steering, with Traxxas axles. Traxxas front arms, rear carriers, and shocks. Losi springs. Traxxas wheels and Tamiya ...

ZED32 wrote: ↑Wed Dec 04, 2024 1:11 am My apologies to the collectors out there. Cut up an original battery holder to fit modern nimh packs.

I've started cutting them this way.
It allows the wires and end cap bulge to clear, while still controlling movement.

moto-steve wrote: ↑Wed Dec 04, 2024 9:41 pm How the heck did you figure this out?

I'd like to say that my brain just works like that.

But that just makes me weird, or maybe "special".

My wife has been asking me to build her a truck. Knowing that it will probably have a rough life, a Stampede was the obvious choice. I picked up a XL-5 slider for cheap and proceeded to build it how I wanted to. Front: - Proline Protrac wide control arms. - RPM caster blocks, with VXL carriers and h...

cjack wrote: ↑Sun Dec 08, 2024 8:28 pm I have an RC10 6-gear transmission with Phillips head diff shaft. Could it be a Trackmaster shaft or a different brand? It's in the smoothest 6-gear I've experienced.

Yes, Trackmaster.

If they were more common and reasonably priced, all of my six gears would have them.