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Another interesting comparison might be to put both cars on a dirt track rather than carpet , I think this would really be a leveller , probably tip it to the vintage 4wd's advantage .
A ton of evolution happened between 82 and 92 , after that it looks more like fine tuning for the most part.

I am building a used RC10B4 and have the option of using the original chassis or the +8mm chassis which was included as an extra. The body I currently have fits the smaller "original" chassis better, which is why I want to keep the shorter chassis. Still, I heard that the longer +8mm chas...

This is what I use....

These are great for removing waxy grease, oils, and whatnot. The QD is almost identical to the MAFS cleaner although it does dry more quickly. Both safe on plastics. I know brake cleaner is not all that great for rubber and will melt some plastics, ABS in particular. 05103.jpg download.jpeg.jpg

I use the same 006 silicone o rings in all my Associated, Tamiya, and Traxxas shocks.

Have any of you used standard Tamiya red "O" rings in a Team Associated top-loaded shock assembly for a "vintage RC10 B3 or RC10B4" shock? I believe the shaft is 3mm in diameter which is slightly bigger/thicker than a standard Tamiya shock shaft. The reason is that I have a lot ...

That's very cool. It makes me wish I could read Japanese.

That's a very cool looking bit of kit.

Hi Again, as per my previous news about moving to a new place, I’m here and absolutely love it, plenty of outdoor space (not so much indoor). Already lost 5kg just walking to the shed and feeding the chickens. I started to unpack everything and come to the realisation that a few boxes have gone miss...

I ran an egress for many years back in the day, I used to heat the front wishbones, put a screw driver through the mounting holes and twist them back slightly thus gaining some caster (albeit never a very precise amount!). There were a few Egress drivers at the club and they all ran like this. It wa...

You mean the gap for the drive pin is worn so the pin is a sloppy fit? I have several cars with the same problem and I just live with it. I used to believe that the pin was made from a softer material than the drive cups so it became a sacrificial part but now I don't think that's always true in eve...

So if you're the earlier B4, that should be 7667 and 7668 replacement outdrives. If you're the later B4 with the metric outdrive bearings, it should be the 9852 outdrive set... if you change your mind and are willing to get replacement parts.

My T3 gearbox had blue aluminum outdrives that were worn and sloppy. The CVD dogbones had plastic sleeved steel pins. I replaced the outdrives with OEM steel parts and the worn plastic sleeves with brass pins. Eventually I ended up with new condition, all steel parts. The brass pins also didn't hold...

Measure the OD of the drive and get a small length of brass or aluminum pipe you can tightly fit over the outdrive. Use a dremel to slot it just enough to allow for free movement of the dogbone. That might help out.

As a side note, MIP makes a "Puck" system that uses replaceable (orange) plastic inserts as the sacrificial part of the bone.
However, the system also requires purpose made drive cups.