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There is a lot of play on the top shaft, you can shim it. But those screws look like they are sticking out pretty far. They should be barely proud of the motor plate. I'd add a washer behind the screw heads.

Hi Bakauata

I have used a solution that others may not use.
End play is minimal and the shaft has a little more support.

Chuck

All associated small bore caps are interchangeable, nylon cap gaskets are not that good, generally o rings are better. Bottom load shocks are no better or worse than the later top loaders, just harder to work on unless you have the proper circlip pliers.

nah, don't worry too much about the brushes. You aren't trying to eek out every last ounce of power out of the motor and the brushes will wear in no problem. as for doing the water trick and then rinsing in alcohol, make sure you apply some light oil to the bushings for the motor shaft. that by far ...

Bakauata Maybe a couple of thoughts. 1. Are you using the same radio for both cars? Not sure of the radio you are using for the RC10, but could it be a throttle endpoint issue? 2. Binding in the transmission is easily diagnosed by removing the pinion and turning the rear wheels. Should spin easily. ...

Looks like u got it narrowed to tranny or motor. Pull that hornet motor and see if u get 7.2 out if the rc10.....if not, u got sone 6 gear work comin your way

If it was a tranny / drivetrain issue, wouldn't you get 7.2V at the motor regardless? The drivetrain would be harder to turn and the motor temp would raise quicker and the battery would die sooner ( all other things being equal ). I would lean towards a frayed, badly corroded, or partially severed m...

It sounds to me like the RC10 is putting an additional electrical load on the system, causing the voltage drop. This could be because of the motor itself (fewer turns, binding, brush/winding issue - try a different motor to test) or it could be mechanical (driveline load - remove the motor pinion to...

so you have three basic things that can be happening to review: the motor could be worn or dirty, or the advanced timing could all contribute to drawing more current than the stock silver can in the hornet the 6 gear and spur/pinion combo can be creating excessive drag in some fashion, binding, fric...

yeah the A stamp chassis should be trimmed if you plan to use the forward mounting position. That was a running change from A to AB to B. the car should still be OK in the rear position, as it was run that way with the 6 gear as shown in the manual. an important piece to the rear suspension that is ...

Those are all Ultima parts (not rere). The rectangles are servo mounts (kyosho didn’t use 4 screws per servo just two) and the shield shaped part is an access cover for the ultimas gearbox.

There's a guy here selling an RC10GT front and rear (but nothing else). The front end looks complete, mounted on front plate and including steering, suspension, shocks, shock towers and wheels, etc. The rear includes suspension, shocks, stealth transmission, wheels, etc, but shock tower seems stran...

Not normal on those hubs

I have these and I really like them. I use one as a daily runner. Initially, I didn't care for how it handled so I've modified the rear suspension to remove some camber angle and increase toe-in and replaced the kit tires with Proline Bowties and it drives like a champ now. You'll want to use a drop...

The center of the rim has been crimped around the shaft thread by the overtightened wheel nut