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Had to do an engine swap...the red head hit the body, didn't want to cut up the body...hope this lil O.S. CZ is up to the task! Had to switch the MIP Ball Diff for a Frog Gear diff...tranny/clutchbell super free...zero resistance Also had to relocate the right rear shock to clear the engine mount......

I had to take out the MIP ball diff and pit in a stock Frog gear diff...tranny and clutch bell roll over super free! Did you do the "Frogshot Mod" to it? I don't know what that is..lol! https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=24674&sid=3142 I use a 4-40 screw. Drill one side...

Or, buy a truck from Kyosho. :mrgreen: The spider gears don't even have metal shafts. My Nitro Brute has MIP metal shafts on the bevel gears!...I cut a driver down, drilled the bevels and put the hardened shafts in...the tranny is indestructible and I put some hard miles in on that Nitro Brute!

Made some headway, fuel tank mounted, had to redo exhaust, old setup hit the carb

GoMachV wrote: ↑Wed Feb 21, 2024 4:00 pm Well done!

But .....
Screenshot_20240221_135848_Firefox.jpg

Just sayin

That's what's on my Bruiser

Huge update:....I drove it!....just imaging the smoothest running nitro ever....and serious top speed....serious...no I haven't clocked it yet and only ran it for a few minutes but being a good judge of speed i am assuming 45mph ballpark..reason being it has no brakes yet...it just rolls forever and...

BattleTrak wrote: ↑Fri Feb 23, 2024 4:21 pm Man it’s looking great! The center exit exhaust looks perfect. Clever fuel tank mounting too with Tamiya bits.

Thanks man, the plan is to keep it as much Tamiya as possible.....also trying to not spend one dime on this one...using everything I have that just laying around

Updates: -got the brake on (pure custom, works perfectly but gonna upgrade servo to higher quality) -switched 20t clutch bell to a 17t -switched 49t counter gear to a 52t -ordered a steel 52t counter gear for durability (then I can run the MIP diff -currently has 52t Frog gear and stock diff -had to...

Ready to test...full tank of Morgan's Cool Power 15%

Some delays on running it....I have a Dewalt 20v cordless drill..it won't turn engine over fast enough to fire it..when I pull the wheel and put the cone on and use the vintage tower hobbies cone starter it fires right up...but the tire hits the cone..I have some serious hurdles in front of me

Alot left to do..but got it running and driving....it starts real good with a pull start....brakes work good too but need a new servo...(case ears cracked)....big power when u open it up....cooling head doesn't seem to be keeping it cool enough tho...sux...might have to run the redhead and cut the b...

Alot left to do..but got it running and driving....it starts real good with a pull start....brakes work good too but need a new servo...(case ears cracked)....big power when u open it up....cooling head doesn't seem to be keeping it cool enough tho...sux...might have to run the redhead and cut the ...

Update: engine in the video was a 86' ish CZ2....it runs good but like I said earlier runs hot....so I switched to .12 CV redhead...it runs alot stronger....but it was being finicky...it's very old...but in good shape....So I dropped in a pretty new .18 with composite carb..(aluminum carbs tend to v...

....and it starts I didn't want to spend any money on this one...but I am going for a certain look (that I can run hard)...that look is all factory, no flash, just the way Tamiya would have released it...the current engine with black case and blue head runs amazing..but it doesn't look right...so I ...

Got a few things done: -bulletproof tranny (steel counter gear/MIP diff) -new Savox brake servo -new K&B .18 (haven't fired it) -painted header black Now it's starting to look like a proper vintage piece 20240318_134832.jpg Only one pic posted, not sure why it does that Resized_20240318_144811.j...