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I replaced the front gearbox. Same procedure as with the rear gearbox, A .5mm lexan shim around the bearing holds it nice and snug. Replaced the front underguard that was bent and deeply scratched. The underguard is almost a perfect match for the original and fits perfectly. Javelin.12.JPG Javelin.1...

Added quite a few more parts to the chassis.
Tie rod ends are new but most other pieces, except the hardware, is still original.
Waiting on front bumper support.
Undecided on wheel/tire combo.



Chuck

My Mid-motor B1, B4, B6 V2. Lots of trial and error, but in the end a very satisfying build. Off and on about 10 months to complete. At the time my lengthiest build by far. A full build thread is here for the whole story https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=45187 mm52.JPG mm61.JPG Chuck

Bumper support arrived.
Added a servo.
Cleaned and shot the wheels until I make up my mind on what to eventually use.




Chuck

Way to go Steve, congrats.
Very nice work.

Chuck

Looks as though the major parts ( B1M rear bulkhead,B1M rear chassis brace, B1M RC10 4-gear laydown transmission case, Rear body mount for B1M RC10 conversions) are available on Shapeways.
Check @ Conklin Performance Designs on Shapeways site.
Probably need to fab the motor mount.

Chuck

No more ice. 61 degrees and sunny.

The limbs that came down from mostly 4 oak trees dragged around to the back.

Chuck

I like the wheel decals but love the car.
I was totally unaware of this model.

Chuck

Tried to use the Futaba MC 112 B and it was a no-go on the fitment. I do have a Futaba MC 230 CR that is small enough and would work fairly well with a Kyosho 240ST. The motor will be period correct and the ESC and receiver are later but small enough and all three are in excellent condition. Javelin...

Included in the car body selections from Andy is the Andy's Pro Arrow. The Pro Arrow fit one of my compositecraft graphite chassis nicely. My chassis is an almost identical chassis to yours, though my chassis was not drilled for Houge rear arms. I tried to show the fitment issue here https://www.rc1...

New tires.
Original looking wing.
Just an antenna tube, a couple of body clips and a battery to take it for a spin.

I could add a bumper but I think it looks better without one.







Chuck

Sorry I don't know the manufacturer. But to clean them I would... Grab a spare axle and mount the wheel to it. Put the dog bone of the axle into a drill. Spin the wheel with the drill and polish. Compound.JPG I have been using McGuire's Ultimate Compound And a soft cloth. Probably almost any rubbing...

Juicedcoupe is on to the answer.

A close look above the rear shock shows the film is still on the car.


Peel it off and it will make a huge difference.

Chuck

For the original 3115-3116 Ultimas The Ultima Turbo is an Ultima with... Duraluminium chassis. Lexan body Chrome wheels Shock towers and radio plate are made from black fiberglass. Sway bars Adjustable (threaded rod) upper suspension arms. Ball diff and full ball bearings. Universal joints. A nicer ...

Hi rwordenjr I have only used acrylic water based paints for some time. Proline seems as good as any. I don't think acrylics adhere quite as well as solvent based lexan paints. The acrylics are way more forgiving if a mistake is made. Before a complete cure, alcohol and a clean rag, cotton ball , et...